Better Check Your Air Box to Turbo Hose Clamps

[Alan Reagan]

I was getting ready for a trip this weekend and when I opened the hood, the airbox hose clamp was broken. When I looked at it, it was severely corroded where the clam touched the rubber hose. I checked the middle clamp that joins the hose pieces in the center as well as the turbo end.......same thing. All three clamps looked like they had been dipped in acid on the hose contact side. Severe corrosion to the point that they have all but disintegrated. I used a wide AC duct tie to put around the airbox end to make sure it was sealed.

I stopped at the Ram dealer in Jesup, Ga and the parts guy told me I was the fourth owner in the last two weeks with this problem. He had a set of clamps he had ordered for another owner and fortunately, the other guy wasn't picking them up until Monday so he let me have them.

So I'm good to go for now but I don't think this solves the problem. It looks like there is a chemical reaction between the rubber hose and the clamps causing them to corrode. The clamp didn't break because it had been over tightened. It corroded in two.

So now, I have to figure out a solution. A new hose is $300 through the dealer or $200 through Mopar online. This is BS. If the Jesup dealer has seen four in two weeks as small as that town is, then this is going to be an issue for a lot of other owners.

If if you decide to check yours, you can just look at the clamp edges for heavy rust. To really check, you have to release the clamp completely and look at the underside of it.

 

[Bob4x4]

enviromental issue-I have only run across one like that and it was an out of state truck.I hate the Cali crowds and tree huggers but our trucks hold up better

 

[MichaelOverfield]

I was getting ready for a trip this weekend and when I opened the hood, the airbox hose clamp was broken. When I looked at it, it was severely corroded where the clam touched the rubber hose. I checked the middle clamp that joins the hose pieces in the center as well as the turbo end.......same thing. All three clamps looked like they had been dipped in acid on the hose contact side. Severe corrosion to the point that they have all but disintegrated. I used a wide AC duct tie to put around the airbox end to make sure it was sealed.

I stopped at the Ram dealer in Jesup, Ga and the parts guy told me I was the fourth owner in the last two weeks with this problem. He had a set of clamps he had ordered for another owner and fortunately, the other guy wasn't picking them up until Monday so he let me have them.

So I'm good to go for now but I don't think this solves the problem. It looks like there is a chemical reaction between the rubber hose and the clamps causing them to corrode. The clamp didn't break because it had been over tightened. It corroded in two.

So now, I have to figure out a solution. A new hose is $300 through the dealer or $200 through Mopar online. This is BS. If the Jesup dealer has seen four in two weeks as small as that town is, then this is going to be an issue for a lot of other owners.

If if you decide to check yours, you can just look at the clamp edges for heavy rust. To really check, you have to release the clamp completely and look at the underside of it.

What year truck? This is interesting, I recently had my air box out, but noticed no clamp corrosion. These clamps are stainless.. that doesn't mean they won't or can't corrode. Are you in an area of heavy road salt?

 

[Alan Reagan]

2015 2500. I'm in Central Georgia. No road salt here. I thought they were stainless as well. But these are shot. The rust is now embedded firmly in the rubber hose. I hope it was just a bad batch of clamps but since all three are corroded so bad, that probably isn't the case. It's three separate part numbers.

 

[MichaelOverfield]

2015 2500. I'm in Central Georgia. No road salt here. I thought they were stainless as well. But these are shot. The rust is now embedded firmly in the rubber hose. I hope it was just a bad batch of clamps but since all three are corroded so bad, that probably isn't the case. It's three separate part numbers.

Ahhh, 2015, you are 4th Gen..you posted in a 3rd gen forum. Might want to post in the 4th Gen, perhaps FCA bought a batch of poor quality clamps for the 4th gen trucks.

 

[Alan Reagan]

Thanks Michael. One of those days, I guess. I will restart over in the 4th Gen.

 

[CEppinger]

I just replaced all 4 clamps, the one closest to the turbo had broken in half , 2 others have started to break (half broken) and the last one is just very rusted at 45,000 miles. The clamps on my sump pumps don't get this bad! I ordered 2 of the clamps from the dealer 53034043-AB (list price is $22.99 I paid $14.70) other clamp is 53034045-AB (lists is 5.99 I paid 3.20), The middle two clamps must be part of the silencer assy and do not seem to be available separately. So I bought plain Ideal worm gear clamps from my local Ace Hardware, and just cut the little rubber nipples off of the hose (used by the OEM clamps to keep them properly oriented). Sizes are 4 1/2 ", 2 5 1/2" and a 7".

 

[Alan Reagan]

Good pics. That's what mine looked like as well. I have posted this on the 4th Generation forum as well since mine is a 2015. I can't imagine what is eating up these clamps.

 

[CEppinger]

Thank you Alan for the heads up on checking the clamps, mine is a 2013. I would bet money that this turns into a recall, just crappy clamps. Factory clamps are Ideal-Tridon -0- (no other markings), clamps from Ace Hardware are also Ideal-Tridon with additional stamp 300SS.

 

[Alan Reagan]

No problem. When the dealer told me he had four problems in two weeks, I thought this might be a significant issue. Glad you were able to replace yours.

 

[rikbakke]

Same problem here with the turbo end clamp. I noticed the broken clamp during an oil change last weekend. The ideal-trigon clamp corroded (why isn't the band stainless steel?...) and failed at the high stress points near the worm drive - should be stainless steel. I wouldn't be surprised if the oil change techs at the dealership(s) over torque the clamp on reassembly on a regular basis, also. I ordered a replacement clamp 53034045AB at the local dealer - TOO BIG - I think it was actually the clamp for the larger airbox end but bagged as the clamp the smaller turbo end . I confirmed the part number by VIN part lookup with the parts folks and another one was ordered for grins and check. We shall see. I noticed a review on the same part for an eBay listing that noted the same issue.

Glad my 2013 2500 does not have the 3500 frame member under the filter. I still need unbolt a frame clamp for the power steering hoses to order to move the hoses about a 1/2" to pull the filter down and out. No need to take the air intake out, either. no need to cap off the filter. I think the dealer techs many times will pull the intake thinking the truck has the frame member hassle of 3500 and the 2014+ 2500s, leading to loose and broken clamps and etc. Power drivers used poorly are hell on the air filter box cover screw holes, too. I've had to replace 2-3 missing screws after dealer service and one purchase hole is nearly stripped out. Disappointing and unacceptable.

 

[rikbakke]

follow on the 2nd try at clamp53034045AB -- no joy, clamp still too big for the turbo end - same size as the first attempt. Thanks Tony...

 

[mwilson]

Just used a 2016 VIN and came up with the same part number clamp as you have on the turbo end.

My local Dodge dealer shows stock on hand, maybe you can find a few dealers with stock and have them measure the diameter. Might find one that is properly bagged that way.
Make sure your dealer alerts MOPAR regarding this issue, it needs to be corrected. May also be a catalog error, ie the part is correctly packed but the part number given within the parts system is wrong.

I ASSUME there is a process within MOPAR for this type of situation, I know there sure is for Daimler Trucks North America. I can make one phone call and once the error is proven all PDC stock is frozen so that no more bad product gets shipped out...

 

[Alan Reagan]

Opened the hood yesterday to replace my CCV filter and the center clamp (the big 6 inch one) was broke. I took another clamp from my shop and used it to make an extension and reinstalled it until I can pick up a new one. That should be all of them. The new ones I installed earlier don't seem to be rusting. The one that broke had to have broken in the last two days because I was looking at what was I was going to have to do to change the CCV filter and I checked the clamps then.

 

[TCDiesel]

New vehicles with all the connections Need good hygiene maintenance, At new if possible Dia-electric every ( and I mean from headlamps to tail lamps) connection wash the engine, clear coat everything under the Hood wires hoses parts lines everything, wash engine once every 1-3 months.... If you live in States that spray Chloride in wintry season you had better wash it off the engine regularly, Good engine hygiene is not practice in America and when the vehicle reaches 8-10 years old and the owner experience's problem they complain , but never have washed the engine once, Some of the wiring harnesses cost $100s to replace.

 

[Alan Reagan]

TCDiesel, I keep my engine clean and I'm a firm believer in using dielectric grease on all the connections. However, these clamps are rusting from the surface touching the rubber, not from the outside at all. When the clamps are removed, I can see that the clamps have actually bonded to the rubber tube. It appears to be a chemical reaction between the rubber and the stainless clamps. It's like a dissimilar metal issue except it's a rubber to stainless steel reaction.

 

[TCDiesel]

Chloride...................Thats why in additions to the Dia-electric I clear coat everything... this is what all My engines look like when done