Big problem with governer install

[sparks57]

I'm not sure... how do you pull the shutoff solenoid? Is it the little doodad with the two wires running to it?



I'm going to check for metal shavings... 10 bucks says there's some in there. 213k is a lot for a VE. And I turned it up a few k miles ago.



Honestly, I have no idea what could have dropped in there if something has. All parts are accounted for.



Well, if this pump is toast, it looks like maybe a p-pump conversion is on my agenda!



Well, if I get any money any time soon that is...



But anyways, the thing won't start, at all. I have taken it back apart, and everything is fine, it just now has the original governer. I removed the injection lines and everything to get the air out... still no go.



This is just killing me!

 

[dpuckett]

CB- The shut off solenoid IS the doo hickey with the wires going to it. Takes a 22 or 24 mm wrnech, or a pair of 10" Vice Grips. RIght hand threads. One thing I had thought of after reading jaynes's post about his VE, is, that if the old gov spring had gotten weak, and the return spring on the bottom side is weak, could the greater imbalance of the tight new and lose old springs have caused the near runaway? Just an idea. Still thinking... ... . Hey, you can put away the fire extinguishers, this time, guys. I saw you, EC Jay.



-DP

 

[sparks57]

Uh, I'm not sure about that idea... PB?



Right hand threads? I'm tool-stupid... I'm new at this stuff. Does that mean righty-tighty lefty-loosy or the opposite?



I know, I know... I'm dumb...

 

[Stomp]

Did you get it going yet?



Stomp

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Right hand threaded... yes, just normal rotation for tightening and loosening.

The one problem with that darn thing is that blasted, and totally useless mounting plate that is attached to the high pressure head.

I have NO idea why that is there, but it's about as useful as you know what's on a boar... .

The solenoid is a bit tough to get at with a normal wrench. You need to get a cheap wrench and grind the outsides of the open end, on the wrench.

Get a good bite on the solenoid and wack the wrench with a rubber mallet. You're only gonna get a couple shots at this cause if the wrench slips, it'll pooch the "flats" on the solenoid.

Anyway, once you get it loose, just lift it slowly and start tipping it toward the firewall as soon as you can. Lift up slowly and use your index finger on your left hand to kinda trap/catch the rubber tipped stubby and spring. If you loose the parts back in the hole, don't worry... . you can use a magnet to retrieve them.

Once you get them all out, use a good strong light and look down into the hole as best you can. Do you see any metal bits??? If you have a small diameter pencil magnet you can go fishing for metal shavings. Look closely cause some of them can be pretty small.

While you have the solenoid out, put the parts back into it, hold the solenoid in your hand and apply 12v + while grounding the body. If the solenoid is working it will pop the rubber tipped metal tube and spring back and forth when current is applied/removed.

Make sure you don't let the spring and stuff go shooting off into the grass or you're hooped...

If it works well, and there are no pieces of metal in the hole or on the magnet, . . and if there are no chips missing on the rubber tip, it's ok to re-install it.

If it fails to cycle while connected/disconnected, or if there is a piece missing from the rubber tip, then just put the solenoid body back into it's hole, tighten up and try to restart.

If you are successful then you'll need to use the manual shutdown lever till you can get a new solenoid for it.



Does that make sense or did I make it worse ... ???



Good luck on this test...

Pb.

 

[sparks57]

Ok, well... thanks Bob. I haven't tried to pull it yet, so I'm glad you clarified things a little bit.



Luckily, a member here was generouse enough to send me a spare pump if mine does not work... it's not the correct pump (it has a incorrect internal timing curve) but I could use it if it really gets down to it.



But I can at least run the top of the spare pump since I broke of my throttle shaft!



Thanks guys, I'm tryin' as hard as I can to get 'er goin'!

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Slow and steady does it C_B..... check each step 3 times and do it once.

As for the internal timing issue. You can compensate for that with your initial timing set.

We have had pumps go out that have been pinned at various timing settings from 1. 4mm to as much as 1. 7mm.

In fact I think that RDusch's pump was pinned at 1. 7mm as per my instructions prior to shipping.



Pastor Bob

 

[sparks57]

I was told that it was the internal timing "curve". Is that what you are referencing?



Once I get the pump, which should be tuesday. I'm going to tear it all back apart again and put the new top on so I have a throttle shaft again...



Then I'll see what happens. Untill then, I can just sit and wait.

 

[bgilbert]

Hope its not being shipped via the USPS!!! Bill

 

[sparks57]

No kidding!

 

[dpuckett]

WEEELLLLLL???!!! How'd it go?



Poor kid- he's been without his pickup nearly a week since he initially broke it.



You still want to go through this with a 97? And a $2500 pump replacement, instead of a grand? Hope it all goes well. See, if you were closer to the swamp, I could come over after dark (I cant work on them with daylight- it always seems I have to fix it in the dark with a flashlight, so that is how I hafta do it), we could tow it to the side of the road (again, never breaks in my shop), and get it going for you in 20 minutes. :-laf



Daniel

 

[sparks57]

Just got the spare pump today (thanks cerberusiam!!!) and I'm ready to take a whack at it tomorrow morning...



So I should be back posting about it about noon tomorrow unless I have another rough night sleeping... then it would be later.



I've been having WAY too much down time lately.

 

[Greenleaf]

I've been having WAY too much down time lately.



Ahhh, CB.



My truck hasn't been on the road since the first week of November. You have a long ways to go to catch up to my six month "down time"



And good luck with the pump replacement. I hope you don't have to reach half a year. (I don't feel like much of a turbo diesel owner anymore. I may require help of a support group!:-{} )



... ... ... ... . my wife says "It's JUST an old truck!



"#@$%!



-S

 

[sparks57]

Well, I'm officially screwed, while I had the pump top off, I pulled the stop solenoid and there was METAL SHAVINGS!!



Woohoo!!! [sarcasm]

 

[sparks57]

Well, I tried to get ahold of Pastor Bob at PDR and apparently he's not feeling well and took the day off.



Get well soon Pastor!



In, the mean time, you've got a PM Bob.



WILL WORK FOR VE!

 

[sparks57]

Well, I figured out why it wouldn't start.



I swear, if there was no such thing as bad luck...



The little arm, that rest up against the full fuel screw? Yeah, well it was bent over and cracked. Apparently when I put the pump on this last time, the full fuel screw pushed it's way to the side of the arm and bent it over.



That would explain why there was not enough fuel to start.



I threaded the full fuel screw ALL THE WAY out every time I put the top back on, HOW IN THE WORLD could it have worked it's way to the side of the lever and bent it over and cracked it???

 

[jbolt]

Originally posted by Greenleaf

I've been having WAY too much down time lately.



My truck hasn't been on the road since the first week of November. You have a long ways to go to catch up to my six month "down time"



I may require help of a support group!:-{} )

Don't despair there Greenie we can get you through this without any therapy. First thing you need to do is round up the following items.



1) old aluminum folding lawn chair.

1) 16" square piece of plywood

1) 30 gallon metal trash can. Cheaper the better.

1) used 2lb coffee can

1) Roll of toilet paper (not used!)

1) Hair dryer

5lbs of old nuts, bolts, nail etc.

1 quart diesel fuel

1) commercial concrete vibrator



First lay the trash can on its side and toss the 5lbs of nuts and bolts into the trash can along with the concrete vibrator. Straddle the lawn chair over the can using the plywood square as a seat making sure there is good contact between the can, chair and seat.



Place the roll of TP in the coffee can and fill with it diesel fuel leaving about 1" of the TP roll exposed. Place the coffee can behind the chair, turn on the hair dryer and lay it next to the coffee can facing right. Light the roll of TP.



Now all that's left to do is have a seat and fire up the vibrator. 10 minutes of that should simulate about 500 miles of good ole 1st gen CTD driving.



WCJ

 

[sparks57]

:-laf



You crack me up!!!



Well, I'm gonna swap in the loaner pump tomorrow to see what happens. Hopefully it's the correct pump.

 

[hdm48]

Jbolt, YOU are one sick puppy. . I like it.



Ok, rumor has it the pump CB got for his truck is from a "bread truck".

SO,,

Now we gotta start calling him "wonder boy".



Sorry Chris, I couldn't help myself. But I did tell you I was going to say that. He He He Har Har Snort



It's too bad you live so far away. I could help.

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

:-laf :-laf :-laf... ... funny thing is,,, that pretty much describes how these 'ole truck ride AND the smoke they make on a full throttle turn..... oh, sorry, I was thinking of a WWII destroyer... . never mind... .



pb.



ps: sorry I missed you today C_B..... I'll try to do better next time...