Bio Diesel contraption

[cj hall]

deposits

Hello All

If its FUEL OIL and this includes diesel #2 and all other petrol under the fuel oil name it going to leave deposits on the injectors this is just the way it is Running the engine for short times and never getting it up to temp is one of the problems. The saying is

(GO BLOW THE SOOT OUT OF IT)



If you want to see what an injector lookes like after running veg oil look in the post that I started DSE in truck 04/05 its on page 8 /9 /10



Thanks

cj hall

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Cooker, like CJ says injectors always get some deposits, but in my experience 12-valves seem to get deposits on the tips much more readily than 24v & 3rd Gens. So I was wondering if what Blair saw seemed worse than normal or not.



The original injectors that came out of my '96 looked horrible, the deposits had globbed on so much that there was literally almost 1/4" of crud. The sizes of the globs were larger than the injector holes. . . I know because I pulled the head before removing the injectors. It was amazing. It had 353,000 on the clock, and I doubt any fuel conditioner was used at all.



When running the WVO mix the deposits don't seem to accumulate any faster, however it's a different quality. . . more soft brown material, as well as some hard crusty stuff on the tips that takes a little scraping to remove. Not much worse than what sticks on there from #2 though.



At 146,000 the original injectors in my '98 looked pretty bad too. I wish there was a way to keep the tips cleaner. I'm trying to be more diligent with fuel additives to see if it helps. I think no matter it would be good practice on a 12-valve to remove injectors and clean tips every 50,000 miles (for those who actually go that long without swapping injectors!)



On my '01, I had my DD2s in for 55k. They were incredibly clean when removed. . . no deposits, only a bit of soot.



Well guess I'm rambling off topic here!



Vaughn

 

[BPINE]

Vaughn forgot to answer the fuel mileage question, pretty close to the same to close to tell loaded or empty. I have kept track of every gallon put into my truck sense new. My mileage does very a bit due to some of the slight mods to the truck and I must have a problem with my right foot sometimes it just feels heavier than others.



BP

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Blair: Great thread! - I've been lurking for quite a while to see your progress.

I'm about 6 months away from being able to make my own B100, but it is definitely in the plans and will be incorporated into the shop I'll be building.



I've been flip-flopping between running a heated WVO setup and brewing B100. Someday I'll find a neat little fact that will push me one way or the other.



I just noticed on this page that there is a requirement for soft water. Around here - your water is either hard or softened using a softener. Where the shop will be... there will be no softener - just good old fashioned well water.



Have you ever heard of issues with using hard water? I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this, but I partially understand the water portion of things in that that you're using it for washing the fuel at various stages in the transesterification process.



Thanks,



Matt

 

[HoleshotHolset]

6 pints of Sprecher amber (beer) later and I watched all of the videos listed here - they're a bit dry, but full of great info.



After watching those vids, I feel I could almost make some biodiesel!



Matt

 

[KBennett]

Matt, I thought I read somewhere that you have to adjust the timing on the TDI's to run B100? Have you heard this?



We have been running B20 in them and they run a little louder when cold but smooth out after a brief warmup.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

The TDI's pull timing out when the fuel temperature (amongst other parameters... ) reaches a certain breakpoint. There's ways around this - install some resistors in the fuel temp. sensor (and other... ) circuits(s).



Matt

 

[Mr. C]

I just noticed on this page that there is a requirement for soft water. Around here - your water is either hard or softened using a softener. Where the shop will be... there will be no softener - just good old fashioned well water.



Have you ever heard of issues with using hard water?

Matt

Actually hard water will cause you to have less problems with washing out residual soap, and when properly dried will have no effect on the finished product. Lurk around this forum for a while and you will learn everything you need to know.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Thanks, Mike. That's good to know.

I ordered the 'Biodiesel Homebrew Guide' and hope to begin researching soon.



Thanks,



Matt

 

[Mr. C]

That is a very good book to have Matt, it will help you to learn just what you are actually doing to the oil to make good biodiesel. Good luck with your bio project. If you get stumped on anything let me know.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Thanks, Mike.

I'll update this thread - or start another when the time comes.



Thanks,



Matt

 

[BPINE]

I started with that book as well Matt, it will help explain things in a way that is easy to understand.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

I've read about 1/2 of the book so far and it is a VERY good read.



I'm wondering about the chemicals needed for transesterification, however. Where does one buy methanol in bulk? They talk about the gasoline fuel treatment (like Gold Eagle's HEET... ) but it would seem that buying any quantity of this stuff would be interesting to say the least.



Lye is used in smaller quantities and a little bit goes a long way - not like the methanol...



I apologize in advance if this is a newbie question.



Thanks,



Matt

 

[Mr. C]

Buy your methanol at a fuel distributer, it's racing fuel if you cant find it go to your local race track and ask 'em where the get theirs. The lye is commonly used by soap makers, get it from a bulk chemical supply house. It will take a little research to nail your suppliers down but that part of the deal.

 

[tgordon]

Another site I found that seems to cover a lot is http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_make.html

it is by a bunch of the main people doing this, but they seem to have a very good grasp on it. Once my wife finishes school I will have acess to money and want to try producing some from WVO. If there is anyone in MI that I could apprentice that would be great.

 

[SandyHelton]

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc is one of the best sites for info. The link below is where they keep source contacts for methonal and chemicals.



http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/719605551/m/4531064311



Good Luck!

Sandy

 

[BPINE]

Like Mr C said, you can get your methanol from racecar shops and don't use lye use KOH it's real name is Potassium Hydroxide or Caustic potash you can buy it by the 50lb bag.

I've read about 1/2 of the book so far and it is a VERY good read.



I'm wondering about the chemicals needed for transesterification, however. Where does one buy methanol in bulk? They talk about the gasoline fuel treatment (like Gold Eagle's HEET... ) but it would seem that buying any quantity of this stuff would be interesting to say the least.



Lye is used in smaller quantities and a little bit goes a long way - not like the methanol...



I apologize in advance if this is a newbie question.



Thanks,



Matt

 

[Cummnzpowr]

...

Hey Blair. .

Do you get alot of white smoke at idle and when you start moving from a stop?Just curious if all biodiesel makes smoke. . i know the SVO soybean i've used never had that

 

[BPINE]

Mine smokes white at idle untill it is warmed up but I think that is the injectors that might be a tad big, my toyota is fine. Cliffmans 04 runs perfect and doesn't smoke at all, same for the rest of the 24 valvers around here running bio.



Blair

Hey Blair. .

Do you get alot of white smoke at idle and when you start moving from a stop?Just curious if all biodiesel makes smoke. . i know the SVO soybean i've used never had that

 

[Short Stack]

Blair mine does not smoke either except for the normal puff @ start up.