Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Block heater

[tony1461571]

I have a 1998. 5 and I have a block heater going bad has anyone

with around this year truck had this problem yet. If so did you get it covered under warranty or did you have to replace it yourself?

If you did where did you get it and what was the best price?



Thanks

Tony Rodgers

 

[hensign]

I have probs with mine I plugged it in and about 20 min later I heard sizzleing/boiling so I stopped using it. Mine is way out of warrantee but would like to know how hard it is to install.

 

[illflem]

The sizzleing/boiling sound is normal, you have no problem

 

[curatchko]

I have a question.



IS there a time limit for how long we can leave them plugged in? I plugged mine in on Sunday..... haven't drove the truck yet this week.



Is it okay?



Second, how much $$ would someone estimate this costs per day????

 

[illflem]

You can leave it plugged in for weeks with no problem except a higher power bill.



Find out how much you pay per kilowatt hour on your electric bill expressed like this-- 5. 0 is five cents-- multiply it times 0. 7( the power the heater uses in kilo watts) the number you get will be the cost per hour. Multiply that by the number of hours plugged in. Average power cost in the US is 7¢/kWh which equals 4. 9¢ per hour to run the heater or $1. 18 per 24 hour day.

 

[hensign]

Wow that sound is normal. I had pictures of $$$$ on fire as I heard it. Boiling antifreeze is a bad thing(acidic) is it some sort of circulation pump? What is the highest safe temp to use it?

Hadley

 

[illflem]

Don't know that there is a high limit. I've been plugging in for seven winters right after shutdown when the coolant is 190°, it just cools down from there till it barely shows on the gauge. There is no pump, the coolant circulates by convection, hotter fluid rises and is replaced by cooler fluid.

 

[JR2]

I have seen trucks that where plugged in for months have no problems and this was at temps of -30 to -40. As for the noise, if I don't hear the popping and sizzle noise I always make sure the outlet has power... . solved that by getting one of the extension cords with a light in the clear plug.



As a little side not I don't plug my truck in much since I got the ESPAR... ... sorry I have to brag

 

[Speedo]

Block heaters

I know of a lot of stand-by generators that are plugged in all

the time. When the power goes off the generators start up and

go to full load within seconds so they want everything warmed

up when it starts. They are plugged in for years at a time with no

ill effects.



Gus

 

[JohnMcIntyre]

220v/50Hz IN.....110v/50Hz OUT ?

Originally posted by illflem

You can leave it plugged in for weeks with no problem except a higher power bill.

Although I've had my truck for nearly two years now, I've never really considered using the block-heater, simply because the local elecricity supply is 220v/50Hz rather than 110v/60Hz.



However, these past few weeks, the overnight lows in Köln have been averaging around -12 deg. C (10 deg. F) and reliable, first-time every time starting without plugging in overnight has not been a problem... . so far. Even when we go winter camping/snowboarding in the Austrian mountains and the overnight lows regularly get down to -18 deg. C (zero deg. F), it started okay but took noticeably longer for the pre-heat grid to come upto temperature before starting up.



I have discovered that I can purchase a small, portable and weather-proof power-transformer that is usually used on construction sites (for power tools etc. ) which has a 220v/50 Hz input and a 110v/50Hz output and this would appear to be compatible with the block-heater's AC power requirements.



The only factors still to be confirmed are the duty-cycle and KvA or Kwh rating of the power-transformer and the nominal 10 Hz difference in the AC voltage supply frequency, which I would not imagine making a real difference. Is that the concensus?



Also I'd be interested to know what the regular current load is at switch-on (momentary peak current draw) and then what steady value it settles down to over the remainder of the time it's plugged in for - when connected overnight to a 110v/60Hz outlet?



TIA

 

[illflem]

John, I doubt the startup draw is any more than the running draw of around 700 watts. Higher startups are limited to devices like motors that take more power to get up to speed. I installed a transformer on a 440 volt agricultural well pump's power to run controls for a 110 volt fertilizer injection system rated at 1500 watts.

The correct transformer weighed over 100 pounds and was quite expendsive.

I'll bet it's much cheaper to come up with a 220 volt block heater.

 

[JohnMcIntyre]

Originally posted by illflem

I'll bet it's much cheaper to come up with a 220 volt block heater.

The price I was quoted for a brand new 220v/110v 2:1 stepdown transformer for outside use with this duty cycle was just over ( the equivalent of ) US$150. If I can get a reconditioned one from the local construction hire shop, I should be able to get a better deal. I'm guessing that the 10Hz frequency difference is not a factor for further concern?



JMc

 

[MGordon]

John, the 10hz difference is not a problem with a resistive load like a block heater. Also, there a several companies that make travel adapters, some up to 3000 watts. here is a link for one.

A 1000w adapter for $69. 95.



http://www.action-electronics.com/trnsupdn.htm

 

[JohnMcIntyre]

MGordon - thanks for this link, this looks a lot more affordable/convenient. Appreciate your input!! now if I can get Eirc {me4osu} to stick one in his suitcase before he heads off for Europe next week.....



JMc

 

[tony1461571]

The talk about how much power you will use is ok. I just put a timer on it and let it warm up for 3 or 4 hrs before startup. But no one has said anything about my original post so could I get some feedback on that topic.





Thanks Tony

 

[illflem]

Tony, probably no one has answered your question because very few have had the heater go bad. 99% of the time the problem is the cord or something on your end like an extension cord or breaker. The cord is available from Cummins or the dealer separately.

 

[tony1461571]

illflem

Thank you for your answer I am sure that the extension cord is OK. Is there anyway short of removing the heater element or will it just unplug from the element to check that cord? I will be gratefully for any helpful hints.







Tony

 

[tony1461571]

I forgot to ask if the block heater is working will the wait to start lite go off quicker? Or are the two not connected at all.



Tony

 

[Bob Cochran]

Tony occasionally people get a little off track. I cannot help you much but from othe post I have read the wire and plug fron the heater element can be disconnected and tested for continuity. Sure somebody can tell us if I am wrong. Alos probably the easiest way to find out if it is working is plug it in for 3 or 4 hours then put your hand on the metal thermostat housing. Should be warm. All I can offer hopes it helps.

 

[illflem]

Tony, if you have an ohm meter connect the two leads to the two flat prongs on the plug, it should read less than 1000 ohms. If it reads infinite (needle doesn't move) remove the knurled nut from the block heater and pull the cord out. Connect your meter's two leads to the prongs that are furthest apart on the block heater, if it reads under 1000 the heater is ok, cord is bad. You can also test each conductor on the cord, each should read zero from end to end, but it might not read true since sometimes just moving the cord around will temporarily jump any breaks in the wire.

If your block heater is plugged in and working the wait to start light will only come on for a few seconds but the grid heater won't come on at all.