Blue Chip FMS VS Edge Comp

[Big P]

First, has anyone done any HP comparison between these two boxes? Also help me understand the de-fueling thing with the Blue Chip. On my truck I have an Edge Comp. When I put it to level 5 and stomp on it and bury the EGT gauge I still have max power until the engine melts. Now if the Blue Chip is set to 63% fueling with an EGT limit of 1300 degrees it will start to de-fuel when it gets to 1300 degrees to keep it there, right? So when you de-fuel you reduce horsepower. Basically it's like me putting my Comp back to level 3 where I can comfortably run under 1300. Comments please, I want to learn.

 

[78repowerwagon]

The fms defuels at the preset temp you chose unless you are in the race mode, then it does not defuel at any temp. Another cool feature is the ability to go back and retrieve the maximum numbers(max EGT and Boost).

 

[Cummins4Life]

Does the FMS alone adjust timing or do you still need to run an EZ or VA along with it?

 

[Roger rodbolt]

Blue Chip FMS!!

The Blue Chip FMS doesn't defuel in Race Mode or in any other mode if you set the defuel to "Off". I run mine on 1200 degree, defuel, when towing and leave the FMS turned off. The FMS will still flash "Pyro HOT--Defuel" when I exceed 1200, even though it wasn't fueling in the first place. A nice warning feature.



The standard Edge Comp defuels above a certain rpm (2800??) but the if the defuel is set to off, the FMS will not defuel until runaway rpm (5000??). The FMS does not contain a timing box such as a Power Puck, VA or EZ but it does need one to compliment it. My tests show that the FMS makes more power then the Edge products and (maybe) more importantly has smoother fuel and power delivery. As you can tell, I prefer the FMS or you can get the same fueling, driveability with a regular Blue Box and timing box. I know the other brands work and some work well, I'm just stating my preference.

 

[1tuffram]

Which box or box combo will give the most low end torque and power plus still have plenty of mid to high end power??? Most of my driving is in city so I'm thinking lots of low end grunt would be more beneficial when "playing" around town with PSD, ricers, etc.



My future bomb plans are larger injectors (maybe DD 2's) and some sort of box or box combo. Probably will not be able to afford both at once so might go with the injectors first?? Then try and find a good box or box combo to run with the injectors. OPPS, got ahead of myself forgot about the turbo and clutch issues which would have to be addressed before the fueling bombs, wouldn't want an engine melt down or slipping clutch in the heat of battle

 

[Roger rodbolt]

1tuffram,

The best combo's vary with engines, the ETH or HO respond well to injectors and a Power Puck or Blue Chip reprogramed Puck, the early ETC's respond nicely to the VA but smoke heavily if used with large injectors. The EZ gives a milder torque increase but excells in some setups. I noticed in your signature that you have a '95 and you may know that the 12 valve engines can't use any of the mentioned boxes or electronics. On the 12 valve engine I really like the DD 3 injectors, they are much smoother then the 370 Marine and smoke less. I think your money would be better spent on the DD 3's or maybe a used set of stock 215hp injectors rather then the DD 2 in a 12valve. Then select a torque plate that fits your driving style/need, keeping in mind that egt's rise quickly in your engine. HTH's Larry

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

The FMS claim to fame is lots of functionality and adjustability.



You can adjust how much and how fast the fuel comes in and how much heat you want to make.



You also get an excellent pyro((1*or5* resolution to 56 psi) and boost gauge(. 1 or 1psi resolution) and choose two other gages to display... from boost bargraph, % enhancement, Tachometer. . i know I'm missing one



Then you get to choose what the timing does with a different box.

 

[78repowerwagon]

Also, VP44 fuel rate, pyro bargraph, and low fuel pressure warning.

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

Yeah, what he said... .



Thanks,

Mark

 

[1tuffram]

I keep forgetting to update my signature and add a 2002 ETH. I've started some prep work and already have a 4" exhaust and Mega-Cannon air filter. I've been patiently waiting and working with Rod at Wildcat on a set of gauges. I was looking at the Isspro EV series gauges before I even purchased the 2002 truck, but Rod mentioned he had been working with Hewitt on some new gauges to match the dash gauges on our trucks and improve the lighting. Hewitt came thru on the boost gauge and Fuel pressure gauge with an isolator, but has run into a snag on a new pyro gauge. So I am looking at either purchaing all Hewitt gauges and then replacing the pyro at a later date when the new updated one is out or get the Isspro EV pyro. I would go with all Isspro EV gauges but the Isspro fuel pressure gauge has no isolator and I just get a bad vibe about bringing fuel into the cab (eventhough I've read several posts where it is not an issue if installed properly with the right line and thread sealant). Not sure what I'm going to do. I'm in no hurry here on the gauges or Bombing the new truck, so I may hold out for Hewitt on the new pyro gauge, then start the bombs.

 

[Roger rodbolt]

Originally posted by 1tuffram

I'm in no hurry here on the gauges or Bombing the new truck, so I may hold out for Hewitt on the new pyro gauge, then start the bombs.

1tuffram,

You are a in a perfect position to install a FMS. A lot of us first installed gauges, then were forced to purchase a higher psi boost gauge as we increased power, wasted $$'s. The FMS has higher quality gas discharge display gauges then many aircraft do. It dims with your lights and is easy to install and use. With the FMS you get an accurate tach, boost, egt, VP44 diagnosis, etc plus a max recording feature that is super and simple to operate. The low fuel pressure warning is very valuable and much more sensitive then a gauge but I prefer both. I run a $7. 00 industrial fuel pressure gauge with both a needle valve and snubber in the line. Trouble with all the gauges, electric or mechanical is that when the air column in the fuel line is depleted (fuel locked?) they will pulse the gauge or hammer out the sender unless you severely restrict the flow with the needle valve. When you restrict with the needle that much, you lose sensitivity at the gauge (the electrics are sensitive to begin with). (sorry for the lengthy post, stay with me ) The FMS low fuel pressure warning will blink on before the gauge registers a loss of pressure. This is another FMS plus, but you could do the same with a pressure switch and an indicator light on your dash. If you choose not to go with the FMS I would do a mechanical gauge and the warning light. Not here to sell you a FMS but I know a lot of folks that wish they would have tried one before investing in separate componets. HTH's

 

[Jetpilot]

The FMS has higher quality gas discharge display gauges then many aircraft do





And what type aircraft are you referring?



Doug

 

[Roger rodbolt]

Originally posted by Jetpilot

The FMS has higher quality gas discharge display gauges then many aircraft do





And what type aircraft are you referring?



Doug

Doug,

Certainly not referring to the jet that you are piloting . I fly general aviation singles and experimentals. Currently own a C-150, Bonanza, Lucombe, RV-4 and couple of rebuilders. The avionic displays are particularly important to pilots. Some displays wash out in sunlight or glare at night which degrades night vision. The FMS has a very nice display. Do you fly the winged toys by any chance?? Larry