Boat Trailer Lights

[LandShark]

I submerge my boat trailer in salt water several times a week and as a result they don't work most of the time without messing with them. Can anyone recommend some trouble free lights that can take this kind of abuse. I'm thinking LED lights may be a good choice?

 

[JPope]

When I lived on the gulf coast, 2 options was to either have removable lights, or put them on the boat guides on the trailer, that raised them above the water level when launching or retrieving the boat. Sealed lights always seemed to develop a crack and start leaking

Even then fighting the salt water corrosion was a constant battle.

Used a lot of dilectric grease on the bulbs, connections, to HELP keep them usable or if nothing else where you could replace the bulbs, fuses etc. without replacing the whole assembly.

 

[Eric_77]

Another idea is go with soldered connections with heat shrink or better yet heat shrink over the liquid electrical tape stuff. to keep all the connections water tite.

 

[bulabula]

Are you running waterproof lights? I've only had to change out one light assy in the last 4 years.



But I only drop it in 4-5 times a month in brackish water.

 

[fishjack1]

LED Lights



I have these on both of my boat trailers and have not had any problems - you can also purchase these at Academy, Wal-Mart etc. Great lights. I recommend using the Anchor brand heat shrink type butt connectors, I use them on the trailer, bilge pumps and any other connection that is exposed to water.

Butt Connectors

 

[LandShark]

Thanks for the replies.



fishjack1: The site you mention (easternmarine.com) has some nice deals on LED lights. My problem is not so much the wiring and connectors, but water and condensation, inside the lights, corrode the bulbs and holders. A totally sealed LED type housing appears to be the best solution.

 

[fishjack1]

LandShark - They work even if flooded I backed into a fence and cracked one of the lenses on my LED lights and it is still working fine even though it gets water in the light. . I have a replacement waiting on it to go completely out. I think they have about a dozen or so individual LEDs and so far only one LED has quit working. There is a circuit board with the LEDs potted in with epoxy so they are sealed even if the lens floods. Wally World and Academy sell the pair with the wiring harness for about $50. .

 

[Matt400]

While were on the subject... who if anyone disconnects power before submerging?

 

[bulabula]

I usually don't disconnect when dropping it in. Used too..... but not too much anymore.

 

[Chipstien]

LED are the only way to go. The reason is the circuit board is coated with epoxy so the elements do not hurt a thing.

 

[#crnxr]

I usually disconnect before launching because the hot bulbs haven't liked the cold water in the past. My lights are not completely sealed (Open at bottom and sealed around lens) but the design creates an air pocket around all of the bulbs when submerged. Cover wire to light connections in generous amounts of liquid electrical tape.



-Kyle

 

[FJfonda]

Go for the LED's... . most boating catalogs carry a kit for $50. One detail..... you will need to run a ground wire. Grounding to the frame has enough resistance to cause the lights to malfunction. The lights I bought were Road Warrier with a 5 year guarantee. I had a premature failure and they shipped new ones out immediately.

My 2003 Shoreland'r trailer came with Sierra Product Dry Launch lights which were so corroded this spring I couldn't get the bulbs out. We hit both salt and brackish water 4-6 times a month and have very high hopes for the LED's.

About unplugging, always. The last thing I want to do is find a blown fuse in the truck after putting the boat back on the trailer. Salt water and electrical connections don't mix.

Connectors..... although I too like the anchor maring butt splices with waterproof shrink tubing, unless they are used on marine grade tinned wire they rapidly fail due to wire corrosion. Normal trailer wiring is best made with a solder connection topped off by water proof shrink tubing.

My goal====> when it is time to go boating the last thing I want to do is mess with the trailer, lights included.

 

[smartineau]

If you are re-doing the entire trailer I vote for LED.



I currently have sealed lights, that would go bad about once a month. I kept dumping the Sea-Doos in when the trailer was plugged in. Once I started to unplug the trailer do a few things before backing into the water, about 3-5 minutes. I have yet to have a bulb go bad.



steve

 

[JKinney]

I disconnect all the time when backing into the water I also mandated and did the same with uscg trailable boats. I buy the cheapest lights I can find unplug and replug and they keep on working.