BOMBed Multifunction (high beam) Switch

[bighammer]

For those that wnat the low beams and fogs on with high beams, I think I found a cheap BOMB. I actually ordered a spare switch to "play" with hoping I could alter it electronically to make the computer think the high beam position is really the "optical horn" (flash to pass) position. Unfortunately the trigger for the high beams is only a momentary switch that signals the computer to change the lighting.



I DID change it to keep it in the optical horn position, though. When I pull it there it clicks into place. I can still pull further to go to high beam only. Of course to go to low beam, I push it back.



It would've been nice to do it the way I had hoped. I think I'll get used to this pretty easily.

 

[SNOWMAN-47]

You lost me. Which switch Headlight switch or hi beam switch? and how do you modify it? How much was the new switch?



I've seen Hella Hi/Low beam always on kits for Jeeps. That won't work?

 

[SNOWMAN-47]

Well I couldn't find the Hella kit but I did find a Painless kit for Chebby's.





http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs...=6787&catalogId=10101&langId=-1&storeId=10101

 

[evldsl]

Dont need no stinking chevy fix!

 

[SNOWMAN-47]

Originally posted by bellyscraper

Dont need no stinking chevy fix!

Whatever dude. GM trucks have the same issue. I know cuz I owned one.



Anyways there appears to be some talk of similar modifications to lighting systems here.



http://www.colorado4x4.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=007862

 

[bighammer]

I took a few pictures along the way. Here is the switch pulled apart. I think only prying the grey cover off is necessary. (not removal of the Torx screws on the other side)

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Inside you will see how the normal postion of the high beam switch sits. It's a plastic piece with 2 metal "bullets" with a spring in between them. Because the plastic frame that contains them is wider at that point, the switch always returns to that postion. (the new notches are cut in this pic, but it's in the normal position)

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The next photo shows the switch resting in the new detents (notches) that I cut. Now the switch can "click" into the optical horn position and stay there. This will keep low beams and fogs on while turning on the high beams as well.

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[bighammer]

Well after looking at the book and checking their instructions, I thought it was going to be too big of a job and that nobody else would want to do it. (disconnect batteries, removal of air bag, steering wheel, clockspring, etc. )



I figured out how to do it MUCH easier. Oo. All that other stuff is not necessary. If you remove the upper and lower shrouds on the steering column, and turn the wheel 90* to the left, you can remove the 2 philips head screws that holds the switch in there. The connector is on the back (push the red tag towards the instrument panel, squeeze, and pull it out) The whole switch just slides towards the left. Pulling up on the "ears" where the 2 screws were helps. The only thing holding it in is the little grey tit showing in the hole between the 2 screw holes.



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[AJain]

BOMBed Multifunction Switch

Hey, is anyone still on this thread??



bighammer, I was pretty interested to come across your thread and description of the multifunction switch because I've been looking into something similar myself.



From going through the service manual on the 2004, it appears that the flash-to-pass switch and the high beam switch actually use the same exact output pins. The service manual calls it a "multiplexed resistive output" or something like that. The FCU unit downstream of that figures out from the resistance present between 1 and 2 what kind of switch action was selected, and acts accordingly.



1. Off = pins 1 and 2 open

2. "Flash to pass" or "optical horn" = 1257 to 1397 ohms across pins 1 and 2

3. "High beam" 518 to 575 ohns across pins 1 and 2.



So theoretically, all you would have to do is add approx 800 ohms in series with the "high beam" internal switch and the computer will treat it the same as the flash-to-pass, i. e. turn on the brights w/o turning off any of the other lights.



bighammer, can you tell from your multifunction switch experiments if this might be a feasible thing to do, i. e. open up the switch and add a small resistor?



aJ

 

[bighammer]

Aj, I went the same route as you-- Looking up electrically how it works and planning on a resistor, etc. I ordered a new switch so I could make the mods, then swap them. (so I wouldn't be without wheels if I screwed it up)



After pulling apart my ~$50 purchase and examining the internal guts, I saw the simpler remedy was mechanical rather than electrical. The switching is done by small slides that make contact with the right movement. The high beam thing had me puzzled because it's all momentary contact. Of course that was expexted for the "optical horn", -laf as they call it) but the high beam switch as well.



Ooops, just read my orignal post, and I had covered most of this already. It was interesting to see this again after almost one full year. I had sort of forgotten I had done this BOMB. I really enjoy it and I'm glad I did it. I did find a picture of the switch with the guts out... .



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Hope this helps

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

The truck's computer is pretty sophisticated so I "chickened out. " Brite Box uses 2 units not one so they can fool the 3rd gen computer. They now offer a less expensive fogster box so those lights will still work on high beam, as well as a complete setup doing that as well as keeping the low beams on while highs are on. I just got back from the Denver rally and I am happy with the Brite boxes. The Fogzilla kit makes it easier to install the 9005 high beam bulbs into the fog light housings. Now "Junior" has enough lighting Oo.

 

[Tim]

But isn't that $150?

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

How much does it cost the first time you hit a deer that you didn't see?

 

[Tim]

How much does it cost the first time you hit a deer that you didn't see?

Are you implying that this $150 will automatically keep me from hitting deer that I didn't see in the first place?



If so, I want two of them.

 

[bighammer]

Why spend $150 if you can get the same effect for free?

 

[Tim]

Why spend $150 if you can get the same effect for free?

Because otherwise he wouldn't be able to come here and chastize me as being a deer slayer if I spent the $150. It's all about being cool on the internet.

 

[JFrazier]

bighammer ...

If you remove the upper and lower shrouds on the steering column,

You wouldn't be willing to share some tips on "removing the shrouds" would you? <g> I spent the money to buy the Service Manual on this truck but I find it rarely helps when it comes to informing me on how to do something.



Page 19-7 says, "Remove the tilt lever, then "Remove the column shrouds" The book doesn't tell you or show you how to remove the "tilt lever" or the "shrouds" and Fig. 2 doesn't help any! <bg>



Thanks,

JFrazier

 

[bighammer]

You wouldn't be willing to share some tips on "removing the shrouds" would you? <g> I spent the money to buy the Service Manual on this truck but I find it rarely helps when it comes to informing me on how to do something.



Page 19-7 says, "Remove the tilt lever, then "Remove the column shrouds" The book doesn't tell you or show you how to remove the "tilt lever" or the "shrouds" and Fig. 2 doesn't help any! <bg>



Thanks,

JFrazier

It's been a while since I did it, but I think the shrouds are screwed together and to the column from the underside.



The tilt lever had me puzzled for a bit. I looked for a set screw or some type of retaining clip etc. , then realized it just pulls off (if I'm remembering right) towards you. (not the door)



Hope this helps

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I prefer not to use my 359 magnum on deer

More light may not prevent hitting a deer, because other factors are involved, some of them behind the wheel.

 

[JFrazier]

Thanks, I'll take another look at it tomorrow.



JFrazier

 

[Blakers]

Are you implying that this $150 will automatically keep me from hitting deer that I didn't see in the first place?



If so, I want two of them.

That would keep you from hitting both deers you didn't see in the first place. Hope there's not a third one following.