Borgeson steering

[ak_fleming]

Just installed a Borgeson steering shaft. What an improvement, no more sloppy steering and it only took 20 minutes. Oo.

 

[DieselTweaker]

Where did you end up getting your's at?

 

[ak_fleming]

http://www.4wheelcustoms.com



Fair price and fast shipping (even to Alaska)

 

[EZGZ]

Amazing what a difference that thing makes.



You will have to relearn how to hold a burrito and cup of coffee while driving

 

[ARhine]

Hate to hijak the thread, but I checked the slack in my steering this weekend and it is in the box itself.



Anybody get a rebuilt one from somewhere and have good luck with it?

 

[RWWinslow]

I have used NAPA rebuilds without much luck . . . I can't even remember which one this is . . . . . AGR Power Steering has about the best units but they are proud of them. I have upgraded the steering to use ATF (my Freightliner uses it) and a hydraulic filter arrangement. It definitely helps but I will still need to replace all hoses and the gear box due to leakage in the not too distant future.

 

[dpuckett]

ARhine-

THere is an adjustment on the top front of the box- ~1/4" allen screw with a 5/8" jambnut. Tightne it up 1/4 turn at a time, and test it between each adjustment to see how you like it. Be careful, you can go too far, and then you'll have to get a new steering box.



Daniel

 

[TKingsbury]

Try Firm Feel, or Steer n Gear, they advertise in the mopar mags.

Travis. .

 

[BHiggins]

Borgeson Stearing

Go right to the source: www.borgeson.com/shipping.htm

It's well worth it, as the factory replacement steering shafts last less than 10,000 miles in my trucks. I replaced the stock unit three times before I went the Borgeson route. I never replaced it again and just sold the truck with 340,000 miles!

 

[1stgen4evr]

Slack in the steering

ARhine, as Daniel mentioned, you can adjust the slack in the steering box. If you can not correct the problem. Go to a 'u pull it' salvage yard and find one that is obviously clean and no wear on the input shaft. Fifty dollars is plenty to pay. The steering unit is the same from 83 to 93 and you will get as good result as most rebuilds. While they are not bullet proof, they seldom give that much trouble. Most of what I have seen in the way of problems came from pump contamination and heating that ended in leaks. If you are in that situation, I would change the pump as well.



James

 

[ARhine]

Is the gear the same on an 80s chevy 4x4? Looks to be anyway. The local yards are pretty thin on dodges.

 

[1stgen4evr]

same gear

I can't say about that. I will try to run down an interchange and check it out. It will be a few days before I am where I can do that. I will post if/when I have some info. Perhaps someone else has tried that.



James

 

[JLEONARD]

Is the gear the same on an 80s chevy 4x4

I believe the spline on our the steering box is a "3/4 x 36".

That means it has 36 teeth in theory. Sometimes there is a "missing" or filled in tooth, for assembly orientation, or sometimes a flat to act as a backup/failsafe for torque in case the teeth strip or the clamping bolt on the yoke loosens up.

The 3/4 would be outside diameter OVER the teeth (or major diameter), and may not be actually . 750"... it is likely about . 730 to . 745 so don't let that throw you. It is still considered 3/4.

It is used in many applications by most of the big 3... when looking for a mating I shaft yoke, make sure it does not have the flat section as I believe our trucks are a full splined shaft on the gear.

The mating yoke will likely have some teeth "missing" and will be at the major diameter in that area. This is done so the yoke will "squeeze" and clamp better. Missing teeth like this will fit fine.

It is best to use a NEW bolt of the same specs. It probably will be a M10 x 1. 5 and should be a class 10. 9 ... and likely 40 mm long. It should also have a locking patch... use loctite as a substitute if needed. Torque would be 36 ft-lb.

Since the I shaft has very little operating angle it won't matter much how the u joint or joints are phased.

When welding the upper end to the column, you should wrap the u joints in a wet rag to act as a heat sink to protect the beraings and internal grease seals.

I recommend leaving the rag coupling as part of the system... . it's function is to isolate pump and road noise from comming up the column... the steering wheel acts as a speaker and the sound may resonate.



Hope this helps.

Jay

 

[1stgen4evr]

Hi-jacked thread

So Jay, are you telling us it is the same gear box and that we can find parts on the Chevy/GM line if we also get a piece of the shaft for the coupler? This should be in a seperate post if this is the case. As mentioned, some areas are a bit scarce on Dodge parts and this would be of great benefit to those searching for less expensive repair.



What sort of coupler did GM use? Do they have the 'pot' joint like the Dodge?



Thanks for posting on this. I should have realized you were in the know on the steering.



James

 

[JLEONARD]

James,

I don't think I'm saying that exactly.

I'm saying that the piece that sticks out of the Dodge steering box is a common spline (3/4 - 36) that is found on many other truck and car applications.

With a measuring caliper in hand, or with the connection piece of our shaft in hand, an enterprising fellow (or gal) could mope around a boneyard and most likely find more vehicles that used the same connection.

Some GM applications use a POT type joint... I'm just not sure what is what.

But if it were me I'd use a universal joint... it will last longer and work better.



I know I helped a friend of my son's out with his steering and his late 70's Ford truck had the 3/4 36 spline on the steering box.

 

[ARhine]

I do know that chevy used the same type of joint in the mid 70s, but it was at the top of the shaft withthe ragjoint on the gear.