Brake Caliper Sticking

[dieselburner]

I just had to change the front brake pads that only had about 20K miles on them they were the performance friction pads. Only the outer right front pad was worn badly although the outer left pad was worn about half way. Both inner pads had hardly any wear. I suspect that my calipers are hanging up. I already have it back together and this time I used some silicone spray lubricant on the two sleeves that the calipers ride on. Is there anything else that I should do to stop the calipers from hanging up? By the way, the good thing about all this is the local autozone replaced the pads no charge.
Steve

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1998 2500 Quad Cab, 12V, 5spd, 4x4, HD Transfer Case, 370HP Diamond B Injectors, #4 TST, 16cm2 Housing, AFC Spring Kit, BD Governor Spring Kit and other governor modifications, Walker Muffler, 285/75-16 BFG AT's, Stainless Steel Tube Steps, Reese Fifth Wheel Hitch, Leather, CD, LSD Dana 80 Rear, 60 Front, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Rancho Steering Stabilizer, ATS Exhaust Manifold, Psychotty Air Induction, BD Exhaust Brake, Enterprise Engine Delivery Valves

 

[illflem]

I had the same problem when my 2500 was new. I just sanded the caliper pins with fine emery cloth,cleaned well and lubed with silicone brake grease-no more problems. I don't know if the silcone spray lube will last very long for you,keep your eye on them. You could probably remove one pin at a time and relube it without even jacking the truck or removing the wheel.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)



[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 03-08-2001). ]

 

[KSTRS]

I Have Had both calipers replaced on my truck, the rt side was under warranty @ about 36k & the lft one was at my expense around 60k. According to the Dodge techs I've spoken to & other Dodge truck owners that I know this is A very common problem. Your suspicions are probably correct.

By the way, hows your centerforce clutch holding up behind all that power?
Good luck
Ken

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'98 reg cab 12v, 5-sp

 

[Skydiver]

I've had the same problem. But think about this. Many years ago I worked at a marine shop and noticed when repacking the grease in the trailer bearings the right side was always dirty and gritty. I would think that the shoulder of the road and the fact that most of the rain water drains along the right side of the road contributes to grime being acsessable to the right side calipers and wheel bearings. Well what do you think?
Tim

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96 3500 Feline deceased. Ready to upgrade. 86K. auto,3. 54,Ext. cab.
K&N air,Star wheel spun,silencer ring hanging on a nail.
Truck looks just like the truck on left side of page 6 issue 31.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Iv'e had this problem too. The caliper does not want to 'float' on its slide ways or pins or both? as the pads wear like its supposed to.

I know a caliper pin rebuild kit is available. New mounting bolts, bushings and rubber seals. I have not done this yet. I have just cleaned & lubed them. I may do it next brake job. They are probably due.

I like to use fine sandpaper on the steering knuckle slide surfaces and caliper slide surfaces. Then a thin coat of high temp grease spread with a finger. Now the caliper can slide easily on the 'ways'? when the pads start wearing.

Skydiver, It sounds logical. Always more grime & crap on the right side of the truck. Our front wheel bearing are sealed up pretty good?. The grime and sand could be adding to the problem of the caliper not 'floating' on its ways or pins like it should as the pads wear.

KSTRS, Good question. The Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch is unbeatable when it comes to price. #ad


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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno's Exhaust Blanket, Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 03-09-2001). ]

 

[dieselburner]

Originally posted by HEMI®Dart:
I had this problem too. I know a caliper pin rebuild kit is available. New mounting bolts, bushings and rubber seals. I have not done this yet. I have just clenaed & lubed them. I may do it next brake job. They are probably due.

I like to use fine sandpaper on the steering knuckle slide surfaces and caliper slide surfaces. Then a thin coat of high temp grease spread with a finger. Now the caliper can slide easily on the 'ways'? when the pads start wearing.

Skydiver, It sounds logical. Alwaye more grime & crap on the right side of the truck. Our front wheel bearing are sealed up pretty good?. The grime and sand could be adding to the problem of the caliper not 'floating' like it should as the pads wear.

KSTRS, Good question. The Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch is unbeatable when it comes to price. #ad

How about using lithium grease on the sleaves? Somebody at work suggested that today. That is good info on the rebuild kit for the calipers. I was wondering about what would happen if they are over tightened as well? Seems to me that the sleeves can get deformed causing sliding problems. The clutch is holding up just fine. I regularally use all of the power and it holds it just fine I also use the truck to pull a 13,500 pound fifth wheel all over the sierras with no problems. I think that the secret here is that I put in the centerforce df clutch early on my BOMBing RAMpage and it had a chance to seat properly.
Steve

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1998 2500 Quad Cab, 12V, 5spd, 4x4, HD Transfer Case, 370HP Diamond B Injectors, #4 TST, 16cm2 Housing, AFC Spring Kit, BD Governor Spring Kit and other governor modifications, Walker Muffler, 285/75-16 BFG AT's, Stainless Steel Tube Steps, Reese Fifth Wheel Hitch, Leather, CD, LSD Dana 80 Rear, 60 Front, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Rancho Steering Stabilizer, ATS Exhaust Manifold, Psychotty Air Induction, BD Exhaust Brake, Enterprise Engine Delivery Valves

 

[HEMI®Dart]

dieselburner,

The service manual says to lube them with Silicone grease. I'm not a grease expert, but it would probably be ok. Its tough to lube up the pins & bushings good. When you go to slide the greased up pin into the caliper, the rubber boot wipes it off #ad
. Ya know what I mean. They must want you to grease the bushings with the pin out.

Good Picture from Fritzs' web page: #ad


It looks like they want the pin well lubed by this picture. 4 areas.
It almost looks like they give you extra space between the mounting bolt & the bushing to pack it with grease. How are we supposed to pack it?

Happy to hear the Centerforce is doing good. Its the hands down price winner in the clutch dept. #ad




[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 03-09-2001). ]

 

[sam peterson]

Guys--Hemi is right-- silicone grease is the only thing to use on the slider pins & bushings. No oil based products should be used---swells up the bushings, No lithium either and sprays don't last long enough. A synthetic brake lube should be used on all metal to metal contacts.

 

[illflem]

Sam,haven't heard back from you,was wondering if our email wasn't working again.

 

[dieselburner]

Originally posted by HEMI®Dart:
dieselburner,

The service manual says to lube them with Silicone grease. I'm not a grease expert, but it would probably be ok. Its tough to lube up the pins & bushings good. When you go to slide the greased up pin into the caliper, the rubber boot wipes it off #ad
. Ya know what I mean. They must want you to grease the bushings with the pin out.

Good Picture from Fritzs' web page: #ad


It looks like they want the pin well lubed by this picture. 4 areas.
It almost looks like they give you extra space between the mounting bolt & the bushing to pack it with grease. How are we supposed to pack it?

Happy to hear the Centerforce is doing good. Its the hands down price winner in the clutch dept. #ad


Thanks for the info Hemi Dart, I will go get some good high temp silicone grease and take it apart and grease them. I'll try to pull the pins one at a time without pulling the wheels. Your right about the Centerforce being a good choice. It has worked great for me so far. Thanks again for the info.
Steve

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1998 2500 Quad Cab, 12V, 5spd, 4x4, HD Transfer Case, 370HP Diamond B Injectors, #4 TST, 16cm2 Housing, AFC Spring Kit, BD Governor Spring Kit and other governor modifications, Walker Muffler, 285/75-16 BFG AT's, Stainless Steel Tube Steps, Reese Fifth Wheel Hitch, Leather, CD, LSD Dana 80 Rear, 60 Front, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Rancho Steering Stabilizer, ATS Exhaust Manifold, Psychotty Air Induction, BD Exhaust Brake, Enterprise Engine Delivery Valves

 

[illflem]

Steve,I use a screwdriver to smear the silicone lube around on the inside of the caliper bolt hole before inserting the bolt. It seems like it helps keep the lube in place instead of the rubber seal wiping it off like Hemi said. I've never quite understood what that picture from the service manual is tring to say,it makes it look like there are dimples that hold the grease when there are in fact none. I coat the entire pin.

 

[sam peterson]

illflem---maybe the bushings are worn out because the replacements have grooves for the lube to go into. I have about a hundred in stock and replace them with every pad replacement or caliper rebuild. I sent back 2 e-mails several days ago, I thought you might be out of town. I'll send them again within the hour and i'll watch this topic if you didn't get them. ----Sam

 

[dieselburner]

Originally posted by illflem:
Steve,I use a screwdriver to smear the silicone lube around on the inside of the caliper bolt hole before inserting the bolt. It seems like it helps keep the lube in place instead of the rubber seal wiping it off like Hemi said. I've never quite understood what that picture from the service manual is tring to say,it makes it look like there are dimples that hold the grease when there are in fact none. I coat the entire pin.

UPDATE:
I was able to pull the pins one at a time and inject silicone grease into the bores to grease the sleeves. I used a hyperdermic tube without a needle to get the grease into the bore and it worked great. Brakes are not hanging up, I have been checking the wheels for heat after I drive.
Steve

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1998 2500 Quad Cab, 12V, 5spd, 4x4, HD Transfer Case, 370HP Diamond B Injectors, #4 TST, 16cm2 Housing, AFC Spring Kit, BD Governor Spring Kit and other governor modifications, Walker Muffler, 285/75-16 BFG AT's, Stainless Steel Tube Steps, Reese Fifth Wheel Hitch, Leather, CD, LSD Dana 80 Rear, 60 Front, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Rancho Steering Stabilizer, ATS Exhaust Manifold, Psychotty Air Induction, BD Exhaust Brake, Enterprise Engine Delivery Valves