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Brake Caliper Upgrade

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I did not have the proper high temp grease when I changed to Performance Friction pads a week ago. I did however, lightly lube the pins with Mobile 1 synthetic grease which I had on hand. Tonight, I pulled the calipers, removed and cleaned the pins and rubber sleeves that the pins slide in. They were pretty gummed up and the pins had some wear.

My question is, why are the pins encased in a rubber sleeve? I would think that a bronze bushing would work much better and hold the caliper in alignment far better than the soft rubber.



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1999 Quad Cab 2500 ST 4X4 SB 24V/5speed 3. 54/LSD Driftwood/Agate
[*] 275hp Injectors, Wastegate Elbow, Boost Module by TXRam, Straight Pipe
[*] VDO Boost and Pyrometer on Autometer Gauge Pod
[*] 285/75/16 Bridgestone MT's, RS9000's, Hella 500 Driving Lights Husky Liners
[*] Smittybilt Sure-Steps, Magellan 315 GPS mounted on shifter console

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243,
I was at a tech session on brakes for our Rams last week and the guy was saying to be careful with the grease. The along the front edge of the caliper make sure know grease gets any where near it as the road grime builds up there and makes the plunger stick. Wish I had a picture, trying to explan it without the caliper in hand is a bit challenging (Large but takes time to spool up) If you have the Dodge manual it would cover it in the brake section.
Mike
 
Make sure thr rubber is clean by wiping with a q-tip and use silicon spray. No grease...

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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover
 
I tried silicon spray on mine last night. I cleaned everything up with brake cleaner, degreaser, and Q-tips until it was spotless inside & out. I completely soaked the inside of the rubber bushings and the pins with silicon spray. I was just barely strong enough to insert the 1st pin. Once in there, it would not budge. It took all my strength and some tools to get the pin out. When it came out, the rubber bushing came out with it. The rubber would just not let go of the pin. Cleaned everything up again and tried anti-sieze. A little better, but still hard to slide. Cleaned it all up a third time and tried Valvoline synthetic grease. This worked the best. I put anti-sieze on the sliding surfaces, reassembled without pads and I could actually move the caliper back and forth (go figure) but it still took more effort that I think it should. These calipers should slide laterally fairly easily. Those goofy ruber bushings want to wipe off any lube and then stick to the pins.

I've searched and searched for after-market calipers of a different design (Stillen, Baer, etc. ) -- found nothing for a diesel 4x4.


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1999 24v, NV4500HD, QC, 4x4, 3. 54, 8' Bed w/ Rhino Lining, 285/75R16s on 16x8 Eagles, 2" Skyjacker front lift, Glasstite topper, Racor LFS

[This message has been edited by Kyle (edited 08-01-2000). ]
 
On the bushing that is being referred to I noticed a dimple 1/2" from end. I drilled out each dimple on each of the bushings lubed up the bolt w/brake grease and reinstalled, now I believe the caliper has ability to remain lubed from the area between bolt and bushing allowing grease to enter area between dust seals and keep things freely moving.

Any thoughts?
 
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