Brake Controler / Fuse Replacement

[madams]

When I bought my truck, I got the factory tow kit / prewired. I've finally got around to hooking up my brake controller. That parts now done . . all wired up and mounted.

Next step is to hook it up to the trailer and adjust. BUT...

I've read many posts here where there was mention that the 20amp factory fuse is too small and that it should be replaced with a 40 amp circuit breaker.

Can someone who performed this upgrade give me a little more information? How is this actually performed? Remove the fuse, make some jumpers with spade connectors on one side to go there the fuse was?

I know I can do the wiring . . I just need to know whats the best procedure & whether the circuit breaker is to be relocated.

I have a 2 axle 8k travel trailer, Tekonshia Envoy controller

Thanks in advance
Michael

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00 Driftwood 2500 ST QC ISB LB 5spd 3:54 LSD Tow & Camper Groups

my photos

[This message has been edited by madams (edited 01-27-2001). ]

 

[Mad Max]

No experience in doing it. I installed the Mopar Wiring kit myself, on it it says that the wiring is not sufficient to carry more than 15 amp, which is what the relay in the power distribution box should be. I bought a Redline Trailer Brake install kit from Mark's RV, but I've made use of the factory wiring and 15 amp relay thus far.

Sorry I couldn't be of more assistance.

Max

 

[sam peterson]

We install tekonsha controllers several times a week in my business. We use a 30 amp curcuit breaker in most installations. The breaker is wired directly to a 12 volt source and the other end to the brake controller. Don,t splice into any other wire. Also the ground connection on the controller should be run directley to a battery ground. If the truck has a factory harness already installed this is already done for you. Just replace the factory fuse with a 30 amp and keep an extra if needed.

 

[madams]

Which fuse #? And where's it located?

Michael

 

[B.G. Smith]

With the factory prewired trailer towing package you already have a 40 amp fused circuit for the trailer lights/brakes. Just wire the controller, plug it into the connection under the steering column and you are ready to go. The fuse is located in the Power Distribution Center. I have been using mine for two years with no problems towing a 31' 5th wheel with tandem axles/brakes. bg

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White 99 3500, QC, 3:55, auto. most options except leather, Line-X bed liner, fiberglass running boards Rancho 9000s, bug shield and window vents, black vented 5th wheel tailgate, 100 gal. aux. fuel tank.

 

[fmj]

BG is right. You shouldn't have to do anything if you wire the brake control into the factory plug. It works, as I crossed a wire accidently and had to replace the 40 amp fuse. I just bought two new 40 amp fuse spares just in case.

 

[madams]

Well that's great news. Nothing better that not having to do anything else.

Maybe I misread the threads . . but I was sure that folks recomended not relying on the 40 amp fuse.

I found the location of the fuse . . At first I thought it was a relay. Little green plastic box with a clear window on the top.

Is this another DC thing that will cost way more than its really worth? I went to a few places to find buy some spares . . and everyone that saw it said it was a dealer item.

Sounds like I'll be calling mopar4less soon.

Thanks for all your input . .
Michael

 

[fmj]

I had the same problem locating new fuses. I went to dealer and bought two spares. They were about $2. 50 + tax, each. I've had no problem with the 40 amp fuse being enough. The only problem was caused by the operator me.

 

[mbellafatto]

The only time I had any problem with the 40amp fuse is when I hooked up to an unknown trailler . The unkown trailer was wired all wrong. I tow 25ft work trailer & 35ft TT trailer for the past four years. Bloo only one fuse . I do carry one extra. Also carry spare brake controler. Had one go 400 miles away from home, not fun running without trailer brakes.

Originally posted by fmj:
I had the same problem locating new fuses. I went to dealer and bought two spares. They were about $2. 50 + tax, each. I've had no problem with the 40 amp fuse being enough. The only problem was caused by the operator me.

 

[mopars1]

I was in a hurry when I got my new truck and went to wire up my brake controller. I knew better but plugged into the dash connector and then checked the wire length and rolled up the excess and stripped the ends. I knew I should have unplugged the connection but was in too much of a hurry. When hooking up the wires to the controller and soldering the connections, the 12v and ground wires got together. I went to Autozone which is only 2 blocks away and they did not carry the proper styled replacement cartridge. The ones on the rack were similar but would not fit. They wanted $2. 50 for each cartridge. I went to work the next day and found the one I needed only listed for $2. 45. Just shows you the dealer is not always the highest price.

 

[Blu-meanie]

I screwed up by hooking up the wires by color (go figure). After blowing the fuse, I looked at the wiring diagram. I soldered a circuit breaker to the blown fuse until I could go to the dealer and buy several. No problems since... ...

 

[Loren]

Nobody here has yet mentioned the fact that fuses are installed in circuits to protect the wires from overloading. Overloaded wires can lead to some really big problems, like fires. The common misconception is that fuses are installed to protect the equipment, but the equipment is supposed to have its own protection against excessive current draw.

My Pocket Ref book shows that to support 40 amps you need at least #10 gauge wire. This is a best-case scenario. Other tables in this book show a #8 gauge wire requirement for 40 amps. Admittedly these tables are for house wiring, not for the stranded wire we use in vehicles. I would guess that the current capacity of stranded wires would not be higher than that shown for house wiring.

Be careful sticking a 40 amp fuse into a circuit that wasn't designed to support 40 amps from start to finish. If you don't completely understand what you are doing, you can create a serious hazard. If you use #14 wire and it shorts to ground with a 39 amp current the insulation and the wire will melt, but it won't blow the fuse. What if this happens right beside your plastic fuel tank?

Other notes & opinions:
1. Sam Peterson has the right idea if you want to increase the current to your trailer brakes. Wire in a new circuit, including the ground.

2. I also have blown that 40 amp fuse under the hood in the PDC box (by shorting something). Be sure to carry spares. It's not a dealer item. I bought several different amperage fuses at Auto Zone or NAPA.

3. I have pulled numerous tandem axle trailers, including a 14,000 lb. fifth-wheel. While I can't lock the trailer brakes with the factory wiring harness installation, I have not been disappointed with the trailer braking performance. I would think that with your trailer, Michael, you will be happy using the factory-installed wiring harness with the factory fuses.

Loren

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2000 Quad Cab, 4x4, short bed, six-speed: U. S. Gear exhaust brake, MileMarker Select Drive viscous coupling, Velvet-Ride spring shackles, Painless Wiring circuit box, Optima yellow-top batteries, Super-Glide 5th wheel hitch, Reese folding ball gooseneck hitch, Drawtite front hitch receiver, Tekonsha Sentinel brake controller, Westin nerf bars, Clarion sound system
1995 Standard Cab, 4x4, long bed, automatic: Firestone Ride-Rite air springs, torque converter lock-up switch, 4" cat-back exhaust, Reese 20K 5th wheel hitch, Reese gooseneck hitch, Hayes Micro Control trailer brake controller, 100 gallon bed-mounted fuel tank with 12 volt electric pump & fill nozzle, Swiss Cap fiberglass cap

 

[madams]

Thanks everyone for the great information. I'm happy to hear the factory pre-wire kit is adequite for my 2 axle application.

So far this "Envoy" unit is working well. Clear wiring instructions to hook to the factory pig-tail, easy to "level" and setup. Excellent instructions provided by Tekonshia.

Just driving it around town . . but no lockups or eratic brake behavior so far.

I'll grab a few spare fuses for emergencies.

Again . . thanks
Michael