Brake Controller

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Though this probably isn't the appropriate forum to post this, this forum gets the most visability. So here goes!

What are some recommendations for brake controllers. I am looking at the Drawtite ActivatorII and the Tekonsha Sentinal. Both supply enough current for up to 8 brakes (4 axles). These are relatively low cost items (less than $100), so I am looking for the best. Any suggestion will be appreciated.

Craig

 

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Craig:

I have had a chance the last dozen years to try lots of different controllers. (Govt. fleet getting new trucks every year, plus personal trucks. )

The Tekonsha Sentinal has been the best controller used to date. It is the first one that I have used that really does what it is saposed to.

It is the first too... Once you reach a complete stop and momentum quits the trailer brakes quite (sitting at a stop light with 5sp). It is one that once adjusted needs no further adjustment.

I pull brand new trailers (2 at a time). The brakes when leaving the factory are brand new. You start out with poor brakes and end up a few 100k down the road almost going through the windshield. The Tekonsha has been the easiest to deal with this.

Also, some time delay controllers are a pain on Ice. A first you have no brakes then your trailers are all over the road due to lockup.

The Tekonsha lets you choose which brakes do the bulk of the work (trailers or trucks). BTW... I changed my first set of brake pads at 98K. They were far from the wear indicators rubbing. The Tekonsha is the only controller I have had in the current truck.

Great Brake Control!

jjw
ND

 

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I also use a Tekonsha Sentinel, and would highly recommend it. It works very well, as advertised.

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'99 3500 QC 4x2, Auto, white/agate, 4. 10 LSD, camping & towing pkg. , Mag-Hytec rear cover & trans. pan, Auto Meter gages, Mopar bed liner & mud flaps, Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation kit, Tekonsha Sentinel brake controller, Rancho step rails

'97 Pace American 28' "Aerosport" tag race car trailer

 

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Thumbs up to the Tekonsha. I pull heavy loads and occasionally pull 2 trailers at a time. The Tekonsha is the best brake controller I've used. The only thing I don't like is I had to mount it under the steering column. Has anybody found a better place to put it?

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Of course I went out and bought a brake controller before receiving all this great advice!

I opted for the draw-tite 5500. Its good for up to 4 axles (8 brakes), has a nice digital display, sync and power adjustments, and is very slim and fits nicely on top of the ashtray. Also comes with lifetime warrenty, and color matches my dash. Also does automatic leveling.

Thanks for the great input. I'm going to be pulling a 26' travel trailer around this weekend, and I will finnaly get to experience how my ISB pulls.

Craig

[This message has been edited by CCollar (edited 10-05-1999). ]

 

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I may be towing a trailer soon. Good timing, guys, thanks! How do the controllers install? I have the towing package, so I have some kind of harness under the dash, from what I've read on other posts. Do they just plug in and that's that, or do you have to get a pro in there tearing into the electrical system? Do you guys install them on the knee bolster under the steering wheel? Where's the best place to buy them? My guess would be Camping World(?).
Andy

 

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Andy

If you have the towing package then it is a breeze. Although I had some trouble finding it, there will be a plug up under then dash for you to use. If is probably hidden behind the large electrical connection block that is mounted on the firewall behind the knee bolster (and it may be tucked under the carpet). You will need the pigtailed plug that should have come with your HD flasher and plug adapter for the trailer plug. If you don't have it, you will need to find one. I think Geno's has started stocking them. That pigtailed plug, plugs into the one near the firewall and then the wires get spliced to the ones on the back of your controller.

I used the Tekonsha and love it!!! Bought it at Camping World -- it was on sale and had a $7 rebate.

If you didn't see it at the TDR Nats, mine is mounted on the knee bolster using one of the existing screws on the far left. Very sturdy -- and yes I have bumped it hard with my knee getting out. I then bend a piece of soft copper to run the wires from the back of the controller through so they wouldn't show. I attached that at the bottom of the bolster using another existing screw and a rubber lined pipe clamp. Here's a link to some pictures of the install:
http://www.dieselram.com/brakecontroller.htm

Hope this helps.


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Rob Spading
TDR Webmaster

1996 Dodge 3500 CC, Cummins, 4X4, Loaded SLT, Mag-hytec diff and trans covers, Rickson 19. 5s with Cooper C140s, Westach pyro-boost-trans temp, etc. , etc.

 

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Thanks Rob, I did see your brake controller, but I had forgotten about it. I did like the way you hid the wires.
Can you add this to the links page? (It might already be there, I never checked):
Camping World's website address is: http://www.campingworld.com
Andy

 

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It's there -- ye of little faith.

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Rob Spading
TDR Webmaster

1996 Dodge 3500 CC, Cummins, 4X4, Loaded SLT, Mag-hytec diff and trans covers, Rickson 19. 5s with Cooper C140s, Westach pyro-boost-trans temp, etc. , etc.

 

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Andy,

If you mount the control on the passenger side of the steering "bump" you will not have any problems with bumping it. I have mine almost in line with the end of the seam (just above and too the left of the T-Case shifter) on that center plastic panel below steering. I have it fairly high up like Rob does as this keeps it really close for emergency stops.

You just connect the four wires on your controller (should be well marked and proabably color coded) to the four the are on the pig tail. We used to connect inline fuses to the outgoing (light blue) supply wire to protect controller (as well as the 12V supply) with the tow package the brake supply is run through one of those hard to find oversized fuses in the engine back "big fuse box.

WARRNING!!! If you think you can use the 4W Anti-lock brake fuse that is the same rating and size to get your brakes back temporarily ... you will have to make a trip to your Dodge dealer to have your Anti-lock brakes reset as the fuse will not correct the problem after you have driven it w/o the anti-lock fuse. (I carry extras now!)

jjw
ND

 

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Hey Ccollar

1st thing is, you have incurred a 50 pushup penalty for posting to the wrong forum with your brake controler topic. This penalty may be served at the next meeting of the Ram Runners. Switching subjects now, what do you need brakes for? Can't you just use a parachute like everyone else? Unless you intend to leave the state with all your money in tow (consider the excessive weight), I wouldn't spend a dime for aditional stopping power. Think of your ride as a ship, they don't have brakes do they? They don't even have brake lights! Airplanes don't have brakes, they just have flaps. If you need to slow down, just open your door to function as an airbrake. Why do you require something beyond the norm?

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98. 5,24v,3/4 ton,2wd,lsd,5sp
blue box hp enhancement

 

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Hvac:

I'm going to be pulling a 26' travel trailer to California City (neat Mojave) this weekend, and its a requirement. It is a relatively low $ item, and I installed mine so that it can be installed/removed easily.

I tried to stop w/ a parachute once, but the guy with the parachute on kept getting pulled out of the bed of my truck! Didn't do much to slow me down, and put a dent in my tailgate.

Craig