Brake Pad Replacement

[Jerky]

Am getting ready to replace the brakes,front & rear, on my 96 3/4T 4wd. Has anyone got any suggestions as to the brand of parts to use etc. or any tips? Thanks

 

[mikepvg]

AutoZone has PFCM Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads that work better than OEM. CarboMet also has been recommended but I couldn't find 'em here.
Mike
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94 2500HD 5sp 4. 10LSD 4X4 RWAL w/GearVendor OD, K&N Oval w/ Pre-Filter, Straight Exhaust, Geno's Fumotovalve, AW-Direct Idle Controller, DiPricol Boost, Mag-Hytec Rear, 124K miles. Halon Protected, NRA Member. V1.

 

[sam peterson]

Jerky--Carbon metalic is the best pad to use on your truck--I distribute the Carbomet brand. I have sold both brands for years but like carbomets better for overall use & performance. let me know if I can help. You can also e-mail me and I can give you a call. ====Sam in Olympia

 

[Extreme1]

On the fronts:
Clean out the old lube from the rubber boots the caliper mounting bolts ride in. Go to NAPA and get a tube of SYL-GLIDE (sylicone based grease). Lube pins and inside boots prior to reassembly. Take a small flat file and file the rust and gunk from where the inner pad backing plate fits in the caliper. Smear a thin film of the same lube on the area you just cleaned off. That should keep the pins from sticking and the pad from jamming.

Haven't done my rears yet, sorry.

As for brand, I used Carbon Metalic by Performance Friction. Had the rotors turned (must do on the truck if 4 x 4).

Good Luck.

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'94 3500 4x4, 210,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (thanks Dave G), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro Gauges & Amsoil Air, Oil & Bypass Filters & Lubes, AWOL intake boot.
Punchlist: X-Mount Mirrors, 14 cm Turbo Housing & 215 Injectors.
NRA member.
Blue Ribbon Coalition member.
"Warrantee? We don't need no stinking warrantee!"

 

[Jerky]

Thanks guys for the info.

Extreme1-about how often do you change filters and/or oil?

Thanks again!

 

[sam peterson]

guys---the silglide lubricant is the right type of lube but is a little light bodied. I supply the proper silicone grease with the slider bushings included in the carbomet pads. free freight & competitive price with perf friction.

 

[lhend50]

I have been using Wagner carbon metallics and I like them. I tow a large 5th wheel alot and they last aroung 25,000 miles.

 

[Extreme1]

Sam, too bad I didn't know this 3 weeks ago.

Jerky, look here to answer your OIL RELATED QUESTION: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum3/HTML/003090.html

And that's all I have to say about that! #ad

 

[BC]

Sam,

I've never done my own brakes. I want to start doing them. Last time I took my truck to Dodge to have the brakes (and several other things) checked before I went out west on a two month trip. They said I needed new front brake pads. When I got the truck back I pulled out of the dealership and tested the brakes. It pulled hard to the left. I tested the brakes 7 or 8 times. Drove right back to the dealership. They said they couldn't fix it until the following day. I took it back the next day. They called me and told me I needed a new caliper on the left and as long as I was doing it I should do the right. It was two days before I was suppose to leave on the trip. I had them do it, I felt I had no choice.

Getting the front pads replaced and the rotors turned cost $307. 06. The next day I paid $291. 38 for new calipers and some brake fluid.

I'd never had a problem with the truck pulling. Seemed strange they replace the pads and it pulls, and I pay to fix it.

Two or three times since the truck has again pulled to the left when stopping. The pull goes away before I can get it to the dealership... which I no long use.

O. K. , finally my question. Do your brake pads come with instructions or a video on how to do the work? I am decently handy, put in the TST plate (great instructions), the Mag-Hitec covers, idle ajusted, and all the fluid changes. I want to do the brakes myself from now on, just don't know what's involved.

Thanks for any info.

Bill Cook

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'98, 3500, 101,000 miles, 12 valve, 4x4, QCab, SLT, auto, 3. 54, tow pkg, Pro-Loc TC, TST #8 plate (230/605), BD exhaust brake-presure lock-torque lock, heavy duty valve springs, Mag-Hitech trannie and diff. covers, transmission and pyro gauges pillar mounted, K&N filter, silencer ring removed, Draw-Tite brake controller, 14k 36' fifth wheel, 12k Sooner 4horse gooseneck, 13K (when loaded) 24ft gooseneck flat bed. '96 Ford 250 4x4 Powerstroke.

 

[mikepvg]

Bill
I had that same hard pull to the left develope on my 94.
DC manual has the excellent instructions you seek.
I got my reman calipers (comes w/ piston & seals installed & new rubber bushings) from Carquest for $36ea & went w/ the PFCM pads at AutoZone for $39.
Don't forget to replace caliper pins if they are not smooth. Some sand 'em clean, but if your gonna rebuild, rebuild it all.
I had some chaffing on the brake lines & Carquest also had the OEM replacement part.
That not only took care of my brake pull, it stops better than than ever.
If u want it done right either find someone like Sam or DIY.
Hope this helps u.
Mike
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94 2500HD 5sp 4. 10LSD 4X4 RWAL w/GearVendor OD, K&N Oval w/ Pre-Filter, Straight Exhaust, Geno's Fumotovalve, AW-Direct Idle Controller, DiPricol Boost, Mag-Hytec Rear, 124K miles. Halon Protected, NRA Member. V1.

 

[Sneakysnke]

Jerky I have replaced my brakes several times, but I seem to get better service from the Raybastos brand than any other.

 

[grtescpa]

Originally posted by sam peterson:
guys---the silglide lubricant is the right type of lube but is a little light bodied. I supply the proper silicone grease with the slider bushings included in the carbomet pads. free freight & competitive price with perf friction.

Im interested in what you have. Whats your
phone # or e-mail?

 

[Jerky]

Back again, Thanks again for all the info.
New question. The autozone and carquest ,are they web sites or parts stores or what?

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1996 2500, 4x4, 5-speed, 3. 54, Full Amsoil with bypass filtration,
So Far Almost Totally Stock!

 

[sam peterson]

Jerky---they are parts store chains with retail stores all across the country. auto zone does have a webb site but don't know about car quest.

BC---It's to bad that a lot of dealerships and shops make repairs the way they do. Accurate diagnosis in the first place would save customers a lot of $$ Seems like we have a lot of parts changers nowdays. Guess thats why its hard to find reputable businesses that do quality work.

 

[Extreme1]

BC, I replaced pads and one caliper, might need the other. If I do, the total will be less than $150. (Got rotors turned for free from a buddy. )

The reason you need to (sometimes) replace calipers is that it might corrode and not apply force as it should. When the pads are replaced, the piston gets pushed back into the caliper, corrosion will hang it up coming back out. Another good reason to change brake fluid. Got to start doing that to my vehicles!

 

[sam peterson]

Extreme 1--You are right about moisture & corrosion sticking the caliper pistons but it is on the opposite side of the o-ring than the brake fluid. A lot of people don't know that the o-ring inside the caliper housing is what pulls the piston back when you let your foot off the brake. Thats the importance of rebuilding the calipers after 60 thou miles or so.

 

[proskeeterman]

Was just cruzin thru the discussions on redoing your brakes. I have pads, shoes and new calipers, i will get my back drums cut. My truck had 70k on it when i got it, now I just read that Sam says to re-build calipers after 60k. Can anyone tell me if I should just go ahead and doit, or is there a way to tell if it is necessary. I like a few others here, have decent mechanical ability, but am a little unsure of myself. From what i have been reading i believe i can do it(have done brake jobs on my old Suburban b4) but this is a REAL truck now. As always, i appreciate any and all advice ya'll have to give. Thnx:

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1995 2500 LARAMIE/SLT, CLUB CAB, FULL CAP, ALL STOCK.

 

[TOMTURBO]

Originally posted by Jerky:
Am getting ready to replace the brakes,front & rear, on my 96 3/4T 4wd. Has anyone got any suggestions as to the brand of parts to use etc. or any tips? Thanks

JUST PICKED UP MY SECOND SET OF PFCM`S AT AUTO ZONE. I GET ABOUT 30,000 OUT OF THEM AND THEY WERE FREE BECAUSE AUTO ZONE HAS LIFETIME REPLACEMENT ON THEM. HAPPY WITH PADS BUT CALIPER LOCKS EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE.

 

[sam peterson]

Guys---I am having a little problem understanging why a lot of you are only getting 20 to 30k miles out of a set of carbom metalic pads. Sounds to me like the rear brakes on alot of your trucks are not doing the job. I expect twice that mileage if the rear brakes are set up properly. Pull problems are not as common when complete work is done and the brakes are balanced front to rear. ----Sam

 

[proskeeterman]

TO SAM: When you told about doing the calipers(rebuild) after sixtyk, was that a statement to do it no matter what? What is the normal criteria for a rebuild of the calipers? Is this something the average guy can do it? or is it quite involved and can I get these rebuilding kits at the local auto parts store? My thnx to you in advance. I do love my Ram.