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Brake Pad Replacement

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Sam,
I've seen it on both sides. Outside of ring if boot is torn, inside if fluid not changed.

proskeeterman,
If you change the brake fluid regularly and the boots aren't torn and they work properly, you shouldn't have to rebuild them. The one I recently replaced was my own fault-brake fluid looked like burned trnny fluid.



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Hey Guys. . When you do those brake's be sure to check the FRT Axle U joints. I had to have front left ball joints replaced and had a full break job done also. The U Joints were full of rust and shot. The new ones have grease fittings both (ball joints & U joints) 111,298

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Proskeeterman---60k is not cut in stone for caliper rebuild but it is a good average. Every truck has a different requirement depending on how it is used. A truck that is used for heavy hauling or towing and builds up alot of excess heat in the front may need work just from the caliper boots being baked. Heatup & cooldown in the calipers creates moisture on both sides of the o-ring. Flushing is a must but there is some dirty fluid laying in the bottom of the casting that won't come out except with disassembly. Extreme1 said it right "if the calipers are working right". The idea is to KEEP them working right. The kits are available in the parts stores and can be done with a little ILLFLEM ingenuity. The dust boots are the hardest part to get back in because they are pressed in. If you decide to do this yourself give me a call during the work week at 360/357-4958--8. 30 to 5. 30 and I'll walk you thru it. ---Sam

[This message has been edited by sam peterson (edited 04-14-2001). ]
 
Sam: Thnx for your time and advice, I'll let you know how it went. Hopefully they'll be no need to call you. Oh, by the way, if you'll allow me to ask you one other question. I'm reading also about draining the brake fluid and replacing it w/new fluid. Is this a step thats done b4 replacement or after replacement of all new shoes, pads, etc? I do thank you for your indulgence. Marc
 
Marc---You can flush the brake fluid either before or after working on the brakes. Remember to suck the resovoir dry and put in fresh fluid before you start. That way you will be starting with new fluid. If you will be getting into the hydralics I like to flush the lines before hooking them back up to the new calipers & wheel cylinders but this is easier if you use a pressure bleeder. Hope this helps-----Sam
 
I want to make sure I understand correctly: The DC has good directions on how to change pads, rebuild callipers, and change brake fluid? I've never done a brake job but trust my work more than the dealers after my last go-round.

Second question: Yesterday I had my left front tire off, had to replace the valve stem on the tire. When I turned the hub assembly I noticed the brake pad was always touching the rotor (I am guessing I'm using the right names. With the tire removed I could see the brake pad. It was touching (dragging) on the metal disc (the rotor?)). Is it suppose to do this?

Thanks for y'alls patience.

Bill Cook
 
BC--There has to be some friction material between the steel plate of the pad & the rotor. I thought i read earlier about the dealer replacing your calipers & pads not to long ago. If it is running metal to metal you may be ruining a rotor. There may be some warrenty on that job if you are ok with your dealer. If not. its time to get your feet wet. Sometimes its easier to ask questions on the phone. You can call me during the work week 8. 30 to 5. 30 except this Friday [gone to dyno days] 360/357-4958. I am glad to help anytime. ----Sam
 
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