brake upgrades

[Archive]

I have a 2001 3500 with poor braking and read about the front brake upgrade they did in the latest TDR. Has anyone installed some performance pads up front on a newer model with the dual piston calipers? I was also thinking about slotting my stock rotors like the article, has anyone tried it?

 

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What are you comparing your 3500's braking to? I can't imagine that it would be significantly different than my '00 2500 4x4 (yes, the 3500 weighs more - but not that much more) and I think mine stops great.

I'm going to get flamed for this but personally I think a lot of people are expecting way too much in the handling/steering/braking departments from trucks that weigh 6000 lb or more. Yes, I believe that there are some lemons out there but I think that some of the perceived failures are self-fulfilling prophecies (sp?).

Brian

 

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Brian,
Read Kevin O's thread on 2001Brake Loss. I've driven trucks to 67,000lbs and certainly can tell the difference between properly functioning brakes and brakes that decided to take a coffee brake on me. Until you have driven the other man's/woman's truck you would have to assume that what THEY are experiencing is less than optimal performance. For a $40,000+ rig, you should expect nothing less. #ad


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2001 ETH 6spd 4X4 SLT

• Dark Garnet Red Pearlcoat
• A. R. E. MX Topper & Walk-thru Door
• 3. 54 Anti-Slip Diff.
• Trailer & Camper pkg.
• Turbo Silencer Ring in Glove Box
• Snow Plow Prep aka Moving to Colorado Prep

Nothin' could be sweeter than "Rammin' With My Newfys!!"

 

[Archive]

I'm mostly comparing the performance to my last two 3500s, a '97 (which I should have kept) and a '94. Regardless i want to improve the braking. Yeah this things MSRP broke 41k but i'll only fall back on that excuse for why it should be better if I have to. I haven't taken it to the dealer yet but i think some type of performance part will be all that can make me happy with the braking.

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2001 3500 QC 4X4 black sport, ETH & everything else except 4. 10s

 

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d90boy - that's the answer I was looking for. If this was your first 3500 and you were coming out of BMW 7series then it's not a legitimate comparison. I don't believe there have been complaints of poor braking on the 2000 & 2001 trucks. Before spending money on aftermarket upgrades I'd make sure there weren't any broken factory parts. Just my way of doing things... .

Newf Limo - By no means am I questioning that failures have & do occur. The point I am/was trying to make is very similar to the whole proper baseline issue that was discussed in the last TDR. Optimal performance on a $40K truck is significantly different than optimal performance on a $40k sports car.

I love the ability to converse w/other owners regarding the good & bad with our trucks but I do think that there is serious shortage of cold hard facts in some of the discussions. With the complexity of modern vehicles we must follow methodical, sometimes painful, processes in order to determine the root cause of a problem. In some cases there has been very good investigative work done - failed lift pumps come to mind. In other cases, I suspect that Driver A thought his truck drove great until Driver B posted that his truck - same year, model as A's - wandered all over the place & now Driver A starts thinking that his truck must wander more than an acceptable amount.

My point is that we must quantify & qualify the problems with our vehicles in order for DC to help us, as well as for fellow TDR members to help us.

Brian

 

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I'm going to have to agree with you, Brian. Furthermore, this is my first 3500 (and I am coming from a BMW) and the brakes are very good. Look for a defect d90boy. What kind of braking requirements are you after?

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David Dressler
2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, 155 inch WB, 5. 9L HO Cummins Diesel (ETH), 6-Speed HD Manual (DEE), SLT+, 3. 54 Anti-Spin Axle, Camper Special Group, Trailer Tow Group, Leather, Sliding Rear Window, Jacob's E-Brake, Rhino Liner, VDO Vision (pyro, boost, engine oil temp. ), Weather Guard Diamond Plate Saddle Box, Tork Lift camper tie-downs, AND functional Halo light!
Bigfoot 3000 10. 11 Slide-in Camper.

 

[Archive]

Anyone thought about converting to rear discs (especially those of us who jumped the gun on ordering a 2001)? Any idea on what it would cost? When I see those 2001. 5 trucks with the 4 wheel discs I get depressed. #ad


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2001 2500; SLT; 4x4; QC; LWB; Auto; 3. 54 LS; 265s; Camper; Tow; Sliding Rear Window; Travel Convenience Group; Cab Clearance Lamps; Forest Green

 

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Fireman Dave I've been looking for rear wheel disc conversion-no luck-think you would have problem with antilock brakes. Now running performance friction Carbon Metallic pads on my 96dualie ext cab 4x4. Much better than any other pads I have tried. My 99 has 30,000 miles and orig pads with 40 % remaining-the stock work better(computer controlled) than my 96-95 or 92. My 96 dualie went 6000 miles and ate the front pads-dodge replaced them and the next set lasted 5500 miles. Dodge replaced all parts and next set lasted 12000 miles. Tryed raybestos lifetime lasted 18000. Used antiseize compound on pins and slide points and pads started lasting 25-30000 miles. Can't wear out rear shoes in 96 truck.

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1996-3500 tst #5 plate, K&N air filter,4" exhaust,bigger injectors,b&m trans pan,Amsoil all around,temp gauges out the wazzo,much trans work,double tow 33' 5th wheel and 12' trailer w/motorcycle(Honda Valkyarie Interstate)Also have 1999-2500-stock.

 

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Brakes are just fine. 40K miles and no visual wear on the pads. AND if you PAID $40K for your truck you already got rooked-so pads every 5K miles shouldn't be any problem.

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99' Quad 4x4 A/T LB 3. 54 30K Miles.
26' Terry w/slide 7500GVWR
"KISS your truck and it will be forever faithful"

[This message has been edited by tlippy (edited 09-22-2000). ]

 

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Fireman Dave, I had the same thought. I crawled under a 2001. 5 and looked at the axle. It's got a different mounting bolt pitch for the brake assembly than my 97. But maybe the disks will go on a 2000 with the new 12inch drums.
I might start looking for a wrecked 2001. 5 next year, and buy the whole axle.

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1997 4x4 CC 5spd, CPL1553 engine, Horton fan, Sport headlamps, Optima RedTops, 98 shift levers and console... looking for a NV5600.

 

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I'd heard that the performance friction pads were good and for the cost figure they're a worthwhile experiment. Maybe the rears are out of adjustment or something. I'll just have to see what the dealer says, it beats fooling with drum brakes.

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2001 3500 QC 4X4 black sport, ETH & everything else except 4. 10s

 

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d90boy,
Adjusting the rear brakes made a huge difference on my dad's '96. I adjusted the rears via the star wheel & then did the parking lot back up & slam on the brakes routine a dozen or so times. Give it a shot - really easy to adjust the rears.

Brian

 

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Originally posted by d90boy:
I have a 2001 3500 with poor braking

How many miles on the truck??? do you pull a trailer????, haul heavy loads???,drive at wot and always make panic stops????????, ride the brake???????,DID THE LOT BOY take it for a spin doing 120mph panic stops and glaze the brakes, if they are glazed then it never will stop worth a dxmn, how long has it been hard to stop??????
Need input!!!!!!!!!
Thier might be a good reason for your problem besides mechanical failure. Have your driving habits changed. With out this kind of info it is impossible to even make a wild ass guess.

 

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Go with the Performance Friction fronts.
I went with the cheaper pads (36/set w/ lifetime at Autozone) on my 96 3500 at 32000. Original pads had heat checked the front rotors. Had to replace one front caliper as it was dragging. Used Napa rebuilds. Now have 111500 with one rotor turning and still going strong on the original front rotors and second calipers. Rears? Adjust them with the star adjusters and truck should stop like that BMW!

Performance Friction also has a high end pad for about 99 / set that I believe is the same compound as used by UPS and FedEx.

David

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