Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Break away screw

[Kalaehina]

Okay, let me begin by saying ever since I got my Dodge Cummins I've wanted to modify it a little, so I knew a plate swap was inevitable, I looked forward to the day I would challenge that legendary screw on the housing, well today was that day and round one goes to the screw:{ . I tried a 15 torx then the 20 and all I succeeded in doing was create a hole, nice and round, in the head of the screw. My question now is what should I try next? Is there a guaranteed way of getting that sucker off? And how do you guys get a chisel down to the screw? With all those injector lines I had a hard time gettin the socket down there. I also have a Prime Loc so oh what more fun I have to look forward to in round 2. I also had a nice poop in your pants episode when I took the boost line off the barbed nipple and the steel line sorta bent upwards, WAY upwards , no kink though. Thanks for your help guys!

 

[Rammin On]

I've used a small 1/4" chisel many times ... . once you get a good slot cut in it ... . tap the chisel and turn it the screw will back right out ...

 

[illflem]

I use a counter clockwise turning drill bit made for removing broken bolts. The bit will catch and turn the screw right out. Most hardware stores have these bits for under $5.

 

[Rammin On]

Yes ... using a left twist bit does work ... but not everytime ... . and if it doesn't . . your looking at a hell of alot more work ... been there done that ... . wanna see my t-shirt ??

 

[Dave Remillard]

The ideas thus far are ones definetly worth the try. My only suggestion would be once you get all the screws out, buy some allen head replacements and the long T-Handled allen wrenchs. Makes playing with your plate location and afc housing alot easier. I don't have the sizes right here in front of me,but maybe someone can chime in with that. The prime loc is nice in a lot of ways. I HAD one myself. You really aren't having to remove any more bolts than you would without it, it's just keeping it pushed out of the way thats a pain. Good luck with the rest of it. Just remain patient and hold your tongue just right and it will all work out.

 

[Kalaehina]

no-strokin, funny you say that about holdin my tongue just right, you should have heard what my tongue was trying to make my mouth say , but I just took it in stride and thought oh well this is what all "bombers" go through, initiation I guess. So I needed some relaxation, so I quit for the day and went to watch the "Royal Rumble", ahhh I feel better now. Well I'll give it another try tomorrow, thanks guys!

 

[DSiemens]

Patience and a small sharp chisel works every time. The injector lines are always in the way. Use a small hammer to strike the chisel, a little finesse is required. Did you use a small hammer to "seat" the torx before trying to turn the break off screw out?

 

[Deezul1]

I used a Dremel tool with a grinder bit in it and took the head off and when I got the cover off the rest of the bolt came out with fingers.

 

[SEmerson]

I drilled a hole then hamered in a 1/4 drive tork bit. Worked great.

 

[RoryTek]

I used a jack hammer on mine, came right out--------Oh and so did the P7100 heehee



But really, just use a smaller jack hammer and you'll be fine.







No, but really I tried the the torx bit, could not get it to bite, a small chisel did the trick.

 

[JGK]

I've done 2 of them using the torx bit and an impact tool, the kind you hit with the hammer. Just light but firm taps in the "remove" direction.



I replaced all mine with allen head screws. 5mm screws and a ball head wrench to R&R the one beneath the injector lines. Can't remember the length and thread pitch but they are common. Found mine at Ace Hardware in black.



As for the boost line and elbow: since the original fitting is usually straight and the elbow is - well, an elbow - and requires the rubber tube to be bent differently, I've just used a tubing cutter and cut off about 3 to 4 inches of the metal boost line so the rubber tubing has more room to bend to connect up to the elbow without kinking. The boost line is not the hardened steel lines like the injector lines. Easy to bend and cut.



BTW: if you anticipate fiddling with plate position and/or AFC housing position a lot at first, don't bother with replacing the break-off screw at first. The housing will be just fine with the other 3 until you get it right. Then you can install the tough one under the lines.



-Jay

 

[Reddog1]

Why would anyone want to replace the break-off screw? Possibly for smog check, but I have not heard of anyone saying the break-off screws were required.



Do you adjust the AFC Zero-point screw? Do you change the AFC Spring? Both of these have break-off screws. Do you replace them?



Each time I work on my truck, I look for ways to make it easier. I can't see replacing the break-off screws.



I have used the torx and chisel methods.



I have also discovered that a long skinny screwdriver sharpened like a chisel works well. A few taps, then slight turning while taping will loosen the screw.



I have not used the jackhammer method yet.





I replaced the boost line and elbow with conventional hose and hose barbs. I think I used 3/16 hose. I used a "T" and hooked my boost guage there. Now my boost guage sees the same pressure as my intake. I would think that boost before all the plumbing to the manifold could be in error. Maybe overkill. So far no problem.



I also discovered, if you turn the AFC Spring/Diaphram cover upsidedown, it is easier to play with the AFC Zero-point screw. If you are going to play, why half step?





Wayne

 

[illflem]

Don't think Jay meant to replace the break-off screw, just not putting a screw in that hard to get at location until you're done fiddling with it. Guess you could put in a break off screw if under warranty, I've even heard of guys painting them so the dealer can't tell.



So am I the only one who uses a cutting torch to get that sucker out?

 

[radixr]

I used an extra-long 1/8" drill bit and then a torx bit in an impact screwdriver. Worked like a charm; unlike all the other ideas I tried before that. :{

 

[bighammer]

I used a chisel sideways on the screw. I got the tip on the screw and hammered intil it made a bur for it to catch on. Then I swung the chisel to the side a bit to sort of rotate the screw with each tap.

 

[C. Harlan]

I used a 1/8" bit, Wallered it out, walked that screw extractor in nice and deep, gave it a little bit of lovin' turned, and voila!!! it came right out! Try that method... I think they are 6 or 7 mm bolts... it beats putting another booger bolt back in there!



-Chris-

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Bolts are M6 x 1. 0 thread. Ones nearest engine are 16 mm long, 18 mm also works. Two under the solenoid bracket are 25 mm long. If using allens, button heads take 4mm allen wrench; socket heads take 5 mm wrench. For the break off position I like a stubby allen socket, universal joint, extension, and driver handle.

 

[ralley]

All the torx bit did was make a nice round hole in the screw.

So I took the hack saw blade out of my saw and used it to cut a slot in the screw. Then I used a flat screwdriver bit in the hand impact tool and it came right out.

 

[Reddog1]

charlan - Could you describe a "booger bolt "? I am familiar with a hambooger, booger man, boogering something up, and a booger you flip with your finger (obtained at a stoplight).



illflem - I bet a lot of guys have used the torch.



I prefer the Allen head screws and Allen head (ball type) screwdriver. The screwdriver handle lessens the possibility of striping the threads.





Wayne

 

[stick]

Kalaehina:

I think the best thing for you to do is buy me a plane ticket, and i'll come over and get it out for you !



Stick