2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Breaks ITS TIME

[R-N-R]

Don't bother cutting unless they are warped.

Even if they are glazed???

 

[diesel DOG]

I think they will bed in. I do it on my race car also. The rotors on that only last 500 miles then split :--)

 

[ECappleman]

I love my truck, but the second biggest problem with it after the transmission is the brakes, IMO they are the worst stock brake system I've ever had on a truck, and I own eight trucks right now. Anything aftermarket will probably be better. The brake job is straight forward, same as any other common brake system. I tow alot and by 25,000 miles my fronts where gone, rotors and all. I bought and installed a complete EGR brake system, front and back. They are better but for the money they still leave alot to be desired. I've also done brake jobs on other cummins and always took the rotors off to be done. Next time I'll look into leaving them on the truck, depending on cost. Sorry about the rant, but this brake system leaves alot to be desired.

You've never driven a Ford then. My 1995 F350 used vacuum assist and used what I felt was an undersized vacuum pump.



As far as keeping the brakes from wearing out so fast, you have to do a bit more maintainance than normal. Both the rod and end guides are prone to corrosion. I polished all the guides to a mirror like finish and refilled the grease boots with lithium grease. I used spray graphite on the end guides. I have owned the vehicle for 22k and did this about 10k ago when my drivers side inner pad ate into my rotor. The other inner pad was 3/4 gone and the outers were 1/2 gone. I rotated my tires recently and had nice even wear across all 4 pads and they still looked new.

 

[R-N-R]

I think they will bed in.

What does this mean? New pads will unglaze the rotors?

 

[DKarvwnaris]

What does this mean? New pads will unglaze the rotors?

I have yet to see a set of glazed pads ever turn out and be worth putting back on the vehicle. MOst of the time, the glazing leaves such deep heat spots in the rotors, it only masks the problem for a short time. A small rotary die grinder with a 3M wheel or 100 grit grinding pad will scuff them enough usually if its just minor.

Most of the brake shops I have had experience with will just chock up the rotors and grind them til they are smooth, regardless of thickness left. I always use dial calipers to make sure they are not destroying the rotors by cutting way past the neccessary depth to solve the glazing problem.

I would rather buy a cheap set of China cut rotors than put a turned set of glazed rotors back on the truck. At least you have OEM thickness, less chance of glazing again if there's more meat to dissipate the heat.