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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) broken ARP stud

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59Turbo said:
damn... . Looks like the head is coming off again. Doug, I'll be calling you for another marine gasket, probably a thicker one to try and lower the cylinder pressure a little. Can those marine head gaskets be used with orings?



Yes, This is the gasket we use when we do o-rings.



Doug
 
Doug, a couple of questions. First, are there any adverse effects to using a thicker headgasket and second do you still have those higher strength arp studs available? Thanks
 
59Turbo said:
Doug, a couple of questions. First, are there any adverse effects to using a thicker headgasket and second do you still have those higher strength arp studs available? Thanks



No adverse effects from the gaskets..... We have a very limited number of 12v and 24v sets left.



Doug Smith
 
Just an update for you guys. I took the head off yesterday and from what I can see the gasket was still ok but I want to oring and I had some oil in the coolant from somewhere. Anyways, almost all the studs on the passenger side of the head, the ones that are external of the valve cover have rust on the bottoms of them, to the point that it's flaking off. I'm guessing that's why the stud broke. They've only been on the truck since December. Anyone else ever seen that? I have washed the engine a couple of times, I wonder if the water somehow seeped down the head bolt hole.
 
When studs are installed it is very important that moisture be limited. Having moisture in the holes where the studs install is a bad thing..... Did you remove your head when you installed the studs the first time or did you just replace the headbolts. It sounds like either there was moisture present from the original install or there has been gaket seepage for awhile.
 
Doug, I removed the head when I did the studs. I wonder if I coated the studs with a film of grease or something. I guess I'll make sure I blow the holes out really good before I install the head and the studs. The headgasket looked fine but who knows if there was some moisture seeping into the holes. Thanks for the reply
 
When I put a thicker gasket on mine I was told it made about 1/2 a point difference in the compression ratio and I would loose a little bit of bottom end.
 
Ron, my cylinder head has been cut about 10 thou. already and I'm guessing it will be cut again before being oringed so I'l be close to what it was originally. Hopefully
 
59Turbo said:
Just an update for you guys. I took the head off yesterday and from what I can see the gasket was still ok but I want to oring and I had some oil in the coolant from somewhere. Anyways, almost all the studs on the passenger side of the head, the ones that are external of the valve cover have rust on the bottoms of them, to the point that it's flaking off. I'm guessing that's why the stud broke. They've only been on the truck since December. Anyone else ever seen that? I have washed the engine a couple of times, I wonder if the water somehow seeped down the head bolt hole.



I have seen that. The threads have flaked off all the way down to the base of where the thread goes. Some have larger chunks missing than others.



In the case I know of, the threads had a light coating of engine oil.



JP
 
Doug, I ordered a set of studs from you last Tuesday, and was wondering if they were shipped yet or are they on back order. If they are back ordered I might be able to get them here locally so I can get the truck back together. Thanks
 
59Turbo said:
Doug, I ordered a set of studs from you last Tuesday, and was wondering if they were shipped yet or are they on back order. If they are back ordered I might be able to get them here locally so I can get the truck back together. Thanks



Shipped direct from ARP, you should see them any day! :D



Doug
 
update: Got the head o-ringed at tricounty machine in Lebanon, Ct. Put it together and got it running today. I did the initial torque to 96 ft/lbs like arp wants and also did the retorque to 96 all with the arp moly. BTW I got an additional 1/4 turn during the retorque. Next question is what do I do the next retoques too? I'm a little gun shy about torquing too high.
 
59Turbo said:
update: Got the head o-ringed at tricounty machine in Lebanon, Ct. Put it together and got it running today. I did the initial torque to 96 ft/lbs like arp wants and also did the retorque to 96 all with the arp moly. BTW I got an additional 1/4 turn during the retorque. Next question is what do I do the next retoques too? I'm a little gun shy about torquing too high.

John's the man! Im up to 120 on the retorque. originally started at 95, then after a heat /cool cycle went to 120. will do another at 120 at my liesure, keeping it under 40 lbs for now. planned on doing it after a week, but with other commitments..... yep ya know. Will def. get it done this week before the twins go on.
 
I think I'm gonna go to 110 or 115 on the next retorque. I'll keep reading up on it and see what others are doing before I decide on what I'll finally tighten it too. BTW are you guys retoquing hot or cold?
 
Another question for you guys. What do you think my compression ratio dropped to going to the . 020 thicker headgasket? Will that affect extreme cold (-15 to -20f) starts? It started fine in those temps this past winter. I don't want to regret installing the thicker headgasket.
 
59Turbo said:
I think I'm gonna go to 110 or 115 on the next retorque. I'll keep reading up on it and see what others are doing before I decide on what I'll finally tighten it too. BTW are you guys retoquing hot or cold?

96 at install.

120 hot after quick drive to heat it up.

120 cold a couple weeks later.
 
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