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Broken input shaft or flexplate?

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I was towing up a long grade in 4x4 and something went bang ,R. P. M. went to the max and made some bad noises at idle so i shut the truck off and had a look didnt see nothing but starter will not turn over engine it just sits there and spins. How do you tell?
 
setting 5 on h. p. & 3 on T. Q. It was a icy long pull with patches of dry ashphalt I think I spun and grabbed on a dry patch. What is the worst case scenario for internal damage?
 
I forget who, but someone else broke one the other month. I think the only damage was the flex plate itself. The reason I am thinking the flexplate is because you said the motor will not crank over.
 
I only hve 2200 km on the truck. Its a little discouraging that they can break that easy. Who makes a better one?And what are they worth?
 
most of the aftermarket transmission manufacturers are selling billet flexplates, but they are high dollar. (around $700) to name a few suncoast, ats and dtt
 
The ATS T/C will fix the flexing up to 450 HP MAX, after that I would upgrade the plate. The stocker should have held without any Mods. RTD
 
J. Davy said:
What is the purpose of the flex plate? If I change it to a stronger one will I compromise something else?



Yes,the input shaft good be the weak link during lockup,Also you may get strange vibrations. A upgraded TC/VB will solve the Problem, Pm your Phone # and I will give you details. Or contact us at www.tcdieselperformance.com.If you upgrade you will get other benefits.
 
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the reactor/dtt flex plt is more like 500 bucks not 700. piers sells a heavy steel for under 200.

Don't make the mistake I made, put in the ats tc then couple thousand miles later I did the reactor flex plt and billet input, that's one more time of pulling the trans and puting it back in, do I all at once if you can swing it.
 
I have all the internals on the way from D. T. T. , I ordered the stuff a few weeks back but never ordered a flex plate. I will definatley order one now. I am surprised that not one of the manufactures emphasized putting a stronger one in. I guess it must not be all that common in the the third gens. I am glad it broke before I swaped all the new stuff in there. I just hope it didn't break anything else. Thanks for all the info guys I appreciate the help.
 
robertyoke said:
the reactor/dtt flex plt is more like 500 bucks not 700. piers sells a heavy steel for under 200.



Don't make the mistake I made, put in the ats tc then couple thousand miles later I did the reactor flex plt and billet input, that's one more time of pulling the trans and puting it back in, do I all at once if you can swing it.



Sorry my fault. As you can see i am a 6 speed guy. :D I got that number from a friend that recently did a full DTT upgrade on his 48re. He must have quoted me the wrong number. :rolleyes: :confused: :-laf



I definitely agree. If your gonna drop the drop the transmission, try to do it all at once.
 
Apparently it is not to common for these things to break and there might be other issues leading to its destruction besides something I might have done. I will find out later today or tomorrow.
 
I broke my flex plate a couple of months. I could hear it bending at 500hp, then added the twins and it finally let go.



Your input shaft also has a good chance of letting go so I suggest your upgrade it too if you were debating on that.
 
J. Davy said:
I only hve 2200 km on the truck. Its a little discouraging that they can break that easy. Who makes a better one?And what are they worth?

Be glad it was the flex plate. I talked to a DC engineer who told me that the scenario you experienced on ice with a sudden grab of traction is the worse shock load you can put on your drive train. Think of the flex plate as a fuse. That's the cheapest fuse in the drivetrain!
 
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