Here I am

Building a better BHAF...

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New engine

Its time for bigger turbo & injectors on '06

Cool!!! can't wait to see.



This fella stuffed what looks like a paint bucket in the OEM spot so maybe what you have will fit:

#ad




He does have part of the bucket cut away on the side of the battery.
 
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OK, here are the pics. I gave up on the frustrating reader's gallery-- it's useless!



ANYWAY, here's what you are looking at. One pic shows the shape of the filter-- it's a stovepipe. Another pic shows the 11" inlet (where it sucks in), and the other is the 6" outlet.



It's also worth noting that the filter housing (the black part) is STEEL that's powdercoated!!





Total height of the stovepipe is just over 13". I was worried about fitment, but the taper of the housing from the 11" diameter to the 6" neck should make the install a LOT easier. Shouldn't have to move the battery now!!



jlh
 
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Let me have it!

Man you got my attention :p I wanna know more. Keep us posted. And wouldn't you know it I just ordered a BHAF yesterday... Not worried, I'll just keep it in the box for some neewbie that wants something a little better w/o spending a lotta bucks. I gotta do something to keep this thing cooler... pyro climbs faster than the tach when you stand on it...
 
Initial impressions

1) It's a HUGE filter! You thought a regular BHAF was a tight fit! This one is I-can't-believe-the-hood-closes- kinda fit. No need for anything to keep it from moving around-- it can't.



2) I'm going to have to put my silencer ring back in. This thing gives about double the turbo whine of a BHAF at hwy speeds.



3) The stock intake hose must be kinked a little to work with the filter. This is because the 6"-4" adapter makes it too long by a bit. The REAL fix is fabbing up new intake plumbing entirely. The kink isn't real big, but it has to hurt flow.



4) Intake is now pretty much one big velocity stack. Starting with the 10" filter inlet it tapers down to the 6" filter outlet. Then I have an adapter that tapers it down to 4" for the stock intake hose. I had to use a short piece of 4" PVC to connect the adapter to the intake hose.



5) This thing DEFINITELY flows more air. I have no way of knowing for sure, but it has to be at least double. After putting it in, the boost gauge SLAMS into its highest number. I'm currently running just DD2s (w/ no fooler) and it gets into ECM defueling ASAP. ECM defuels to keep 26psi.



Wish I could offer more feedback, but my truck is having issues as of last week. It's surging, and throwing 0216, 1690, and 0500 codes. Could it be bad fuel? FP is same as always, maybe a hair lower. I'm fearing the VP, but it's only got 40K on it, the LP is perfect, and I have a max-flow fuel line kit :confused:



Anyway, those are separate issues. When I get time, I'll post pics of the filter shoehorned under the hood.



jlh
 
Hohn said:
1) It's a HUGE filter! You thought a regular BHAF was a tight fit! This one is I-can't-believe-the-hood-closes- kinda fit. No need for anything to keep it from moving around-- it can't.



2) I'm going to have to put my silencer ring back in. This thing gives about double the turbo whine of a BHAF at hwy speeds.



3) The stock intake hose must be kinked a little to work with the filter. This is because the 6"-4" adapter makes it too long by a bit. The REAL fix is fabbing up new intake plumbing entirely. The kink isn't real big, but it has to hurt flow.



4) Intake is now pretty much one big velocity stack. Starting with the 10" filter inlet it tapers down to the 6" filter outlet. Then I have an adapter that tapers it down to 4" for the stock intake hose. I had to use a short piece of 4" PVC to connect the adapter to the intake hose.



5) This thing DEFINITELY flows more air. I have no way of knowing for sure, but it has to be at least double. After putting it in, the boost gauge SLAMS into its highest number. I'm currently running just DD2s (w/ no fooler) and it gets into ECM defueling ASAP. ECM defuels to keep 26psi.



Wish I could offer more feedback, but my truck is having issues as of last week. It's surging, and throwing 0216, 1690, and 0500 codes. Could it be bad fuel? FP is same as always, maybe a hair lower. I'm fearing the VP, but it's only got 40K on it, the LP is perfect, and I have a max-flow fuel line kit :confused:



Anyway, those are separate issues. When I get time, I'll post pics of the filter shoehorned under the hood.



jlh



So whats the model number you ended up with? And whats the odds of fitting this on a 3rd gen :confused:



Slim to none? :-laf
 
Tomeygun--- I don't see how this could fit a 3rd gen. That said, I'm not much at all familiar with their underhood accomodations. If the ducting could be fashioned in a certain way, then I bet you might make it work.



One other observation: the coating on the steel part is not powdercoat, as I was able to chip it off. It's paint.



I think this filter would really shine with a large single. As it is now, a little HX35 just can't possibly move enough air to where this thing is even a LITTLE restrictive.



Oh-- someone asked about the fitting on the side of the stovepipe-- I have NO IDEA what this might be. Keep in mind, this is for a gas tubine genset or something, so it may be useful in that application. Maybe you could use it as a nitrous injection point? The STEEL filter housing is nice, because you could tap some threads for all kinds of creative purposes.



I don't have the P/N available-- I'll try to get it from Donaldson.



Justin
 
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so the cylindrical unit is the filter and the tapered section is a separate housing? sounds like someone with some time will be making and marketing a 4" to 6" intake tube for this beast! i suppose any of you that have fabbed up a cold pipe for twins oughta be measuring and sketching as we speak!

HOOK ME UP!
 
Actually, the Cylindrical part is a clamp-on housing (as you can see), but the filter element is attached to the tapered part, not the cylinder. This prevents leakage at the sealing point, as the joint between the two sections could leak without letting anything into the intake tract--the element doesn't rely on that seal, it relies on the attachment of the tapered section to the element inside.



The cylindrical part just slips over.
 
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Top pic shows size comparison to regular BHAF. Note the outlet size of BHAF compared to outlet of STOVEPIPE (that's the name that's sticking so far). Or maybe we should call it the HHAF? (Huge Honking Air Filter?) Naming this monster is a separate issue.



Middle photo shows how the inlet end nestles into the corner.



Bottom pic shows the airspace left for the filter to breathe. I cut a cowl hole (Scotty-style), but it's only 3". I think it helps it breathe. I cut the hole when I first put in the original BHAF. Didn't help the BHAF much as the end is closed. With the STOVEPIPE, I think it actually helps some.



Justin
 
Hohn said:
More pics-- got the reader's gallery to work.



OHHH MMYYYY FRIGGIN GOSHHHH



That thing is beyond massive...



If I could get that thing in a 3rd gen, that would be awesome



what did it set ya back, by the way?? (if you dont mind me asking)
 
Something like that might help. I dislike a hard 90 like that, though. It would still be better than that kink that you can see in the pics.



jlh
 
No need for outerwears with this one. It can hold over double the dust of a paper-style filter. This is probably pretty close to a lifetime filter. I think on this filter, an Outerwears would be a completely unnecessary restriction.



As you can see from the pics, the odds of getting water in it are pretty remote. Heck, they're remote with the regular BHAF. This should be even better. Also, the element is NOT paper, and it IS water-resistant.



As for what this thing may cost, I can't answer that as i don't YET have the P/N. Donaldson sent this to me on the condition that I test it for them and see if it would work on a CTD. I'm guessing it's not cheap (probably over $100 but less than $200).



I think it compares favorably to an AFE stage 2-- only even BETTER filtration, MORE flow, and COSTS less (if my price assumptions are close), while not using oil! Sounds good to me... ...



jlh
 
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that looks like it is too big for 3rd gen... with how i have my filter mounted [most have it a little differently than mine] i am just touching the headlight adjusting screw, and i am about 3/4" away from the alternator... with how mine is mounted, i probably could go with something that is close to 12" diam, but no more than 10" long on the body [as 10. 5" bhaf is a little close now]
 
PART NUMBER!!!



P/N PCD100028



I called the local Donaldson parts guy and he gets no hits.



I'll try to get pricing info from Donaldson directly.



I thought I'd also comment on the SOUND of this filter. Yes, the turbo whistle is louder than ever. I don't know if plugging my little cowl hole would help or not. I think putting the ring back in may be all it takes. So you guys who WANT turbo whine, this delivers. For the rest of us, workarounds are pretty easy.



The other part of the sound is that it's "Throaty". If you've been close to an open BHAF with the engine running, you know that there's a sound there that's similar to the resonance of an open-headered gasser. Since this filter housing is steel and rests right against the steel of the body/cab, the whole front end becomes a megaphone amplifying that intake resonance. It's not obtrusive, and on the hwy it doesn't seem to be noticeable. But around town it's pretty fun, as every time you let off the fuel pedal you hear this wonderfully mellifluous throaty rumble. From inside the cab, it sounds like you have anything BUT stock exhaust! I'm still stock on the exhaust side.



jh
 
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