Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Building a Monster Mudder

[Morphious]

Well, since I don't have any spare fuel pumps laying around, I'll probably just order a new mechanical pump from RockAuto and have it here when I get back from my week in Texas, so I can get it installed and see what's what after that. Would be nice if that was the last item to get the truck running, so I can pull it into the shop and start chopping it up.





Does anyone have a non-egr intake/exhaust manifold they'd want to donate? Don't really want to spend the deno to remove the EGR, will probably just make some blockoff plates for the exhause and intake using the flanges and some freeze plugs welded into them.



Morph.

 

[Morphious]

Newest Update, I picked up one tire for it driving down to San Antonio to see my boys and found a slightly used 37x13x16 Super Swamper Bogger for 150. 00, sure beats the new price of 324. 00 each. Just need to find 3 more tires. I also picked up the 4th factory rim in San Antonio this last weekend for 40. 00, so I now have 4 matching factory chrome wheels (with the chrome flacking off), I mounted the tire on the wheel, man it was a pita getting that wide wheel mounted on that narrow rim. When I get the truck done, it's going to look good. I just need to get one more wheel so I can get them put on the front and level the fram for cutting it off and measure for the height of where I need to mount the cab on the frame so that I don't have to lift the truck.



I also picked up a non egr intake horn on ebay tonight for 7. 50 plus shipping, just need to plug the exhaust side until I can get another exhaust manifold. I also picked up a locker tonight off ebay for the dana 60, so I've got everything now for the front axle, which includes the locker and the kit to perm lock the cad in place. The rear axle will get it's spider gears welded since you can't get a spool for a dana 70.



The mechanical fuel pump should be here tomorrow if the UPS gods smile and I'll get it installed this weekend along with a new fuel filter and hopefully that will solve the fuel issue with the back three cylinders not getting enough fuel.



That's about it, pieces are starting to come together and I should be getting the truck in the shop soon to start the transformation to put the new body on it.



Morph.

 

[Texis]

Morphious,



I might be interested in the roof off your new race truck, assuming it has not been sat on, lol. Mine had a run-in with a parking garage and the body shops are telling me it needs a new top. If I can come up with the sheet metal my bill at the shop will be a bit less!



BTW, I don't think the $700 truck looks that bad!

97 5. 9 2500 4x4

 

[Morphious]

Texis, I'm planning on selling all the body parts of the 96 that I take off of it, including the intercooler and fuel tank, and anything else that I won't need to help offset some of the costs. I'm not going to ask alot for them, so shoot me a PM and we can see what can be done with the Cab of the truck.





Morph.

 

[Texis]

Who makes a good auto floor shifter with a reverse pattern for the 47RE?

I have a B&M, I like it. When you start looking at cable shifters, the 727 shifters work on your transmission. So there is plenty to choose from. The park-to-start, and reverse light stuff is internal and the cable shifters don't interfer at all. I put mine in being a cheapo (column shifter broke)... now I love it. Great when you towing, great in the mountains. Best $180 dollar upgrade to date.



Down side for me was loosing the center seat and console... but I'm working on that one.

 

[Missouri Mule]

Morphious, fuel pressure for p7100 12 valves with mechanical lift pump 20 psi minimum at supply line to p7100 ( comiing out of filter). Raising rpm should raise pressure.

 

[Morphious]

Well, I replaced the fuel pump today and still have the same problem, so that isn't it. What I'm seeing is that the front three cylinders have good pressure to them and the back three cylinders have very little, it's just a little spit or trickle coming out at the injectors. I also have several injectors leaking at the base, when I pulled them out to do a compression check, I didn't find any washers on them, should there bee any washers? I've torqued the nut and then ran it, got it hot and then retorqued them and several are still leaking at the base. Could it be the overflow check valve? what would happen if I plugged it with a bolt instead of the popoff valve to see if that cured it?



Just trying to find a solution other than the injection pump being bad.

 

[Morphious]

One other thing i remember when putting the injector lines on was that some of the delivery vavles were trying to turn when I was tightening up the lines, could this be the problem? Is there anything I can do without having to pull the pump and have it rebuilt?



Morph

 

[Morphious]

Well, we've gotten a little further on it. Some moron had removed the guts of the overflow valve. We blocked it off and now have good fuel to the back 3 injectors, but they still aren't popping off, the engine doesn't stumble when you crack thier lines. I'm going to swap the 3 rear injectors for the 3 front injectors and see if the problem travels with the injectors or not. Waiting on the engine to cool down now.

 

[fest3er]

... Waiting on the engine to cool down now.

Wuss.

 

[Missouri Mule]

Pretty sure you need washers with the injectors.

 

[Morphious]

Here's a quick update, took the back three injectors to have them tested, they aren't plugged, and are working, but they are popping off 50bar too soon, that's 725psi too early. The next test is to move those three to the first three cylinders and see if the problem follows them or if I still have problems with the back three. That should rule out the injection pump in my mind. Guess I'll be searching for some new injectors, does anyone have some spare (cheap) 140hp injectors laying around?



Morph.

 

[fest3er]

Here's a quick update, took the back three injectors to have them tested, they aren't plugged, and are working, but they are popping off 50bar too soon, that's 725psi too early. The next test is to move those three to the first three cylinders and see if the problem follows them or if I still have problems with the back three. That should rule out the injection pump in my mind. Guess I'll be searching for some new injectors, does anyone have some spare (cheap) 140hp injectors laying around?



Morph.

700 PSI shouldn't make that much difference. I forget: did you pinch off the fuel return line to see if there's enough pressure in the pump?



I could loan you my original 160s. I only use them when the 215s are being adjusted.

 

[Morphious]

I found some used 370's for 200. 00 that I'm probably going to buy, I'm going to switch out the front three injectors with the back three tomorrow or friday and see what happens and go from there.



Morph.

 

[Morphious]

Another update, I swapped the three rear injectors for the front three injectors, and it's still just running on the front three cylinders. So at this point, I think it's safe to say that the used injection pump that I bought isn't any good and will need to be rebuilt. Is there anyway to test the pump out and if so, how much does it usually cost?



Morph.

 

[Morphious]

It's alllliiiiivvvveeee, I talked with piers and they said it was probably a flat cam in the injector pump and that the pump needed to be rebuilt. I wasn't happy with that answer, so I called industrial injection friday and talked with them for a little while trying to figure out what was bad before I spend mucho bucks on a pump rebuild. So, after talking to them, I took my timing kit today and measured the lift of each lobe on the injection pump cam, they were all within thousandths of the same value, but what I noticed on taking the pump down to this level was that he back three delivery valve holders were loose, after checking them all, I put the holders back together, torqued them to the right spec and put the truck back together. Upon cranking the truck over we could already tell that it was in a much better condition. After bleeding the lines, the truck started and ran like a raped ape.



The truck now starts and runs great, so now I can start working on other things with it. I need to put a different tire on one of the wheels, and drive it up and down the road to check out the transmission next and then I'll be ready to start tearing the truck apart.



Morph.

 

[Morphious]

Well, been a while since I've updated on the truck, so I'll give a run down on where I'm at on the truck. I've stated with 330k mile 12 valve that didn't run that I bought for 700. 00, it was an extended cab long bed 4x4 auto truck. I'd planned on putting a 46 dodge powerwagon body on it and have the body sitting here, but time wasn't with me on such a massive conversion, so what I've done is picked up a 96 dodge regular cab and a short bed to cut the truck down.



I've gotten the truck running with a 215 hp p-pump, I'm cutting the fuel plate down to a #100 plate, removing the afc foot, installing a 4k gsk, and 60lb valve springs on both intake and exhaust. I'm going to be getting a set of 5x14 injectors from SDX, and for the turbo, I've decided to go with a HX351ve that has had the electronics pulled off, the mounting flange on the turbo modified to fit a T-3 intake, using a wastegate actuator to control the movement of the collar, the wastegate actuator should start moving the sleeve at about 12 psi and stop at about 30 psi for full movement (not orining or studding the head yet). That will then flow into an hx40 downpipe to a single stack in the bed. Running a 10 gallon fuel cell in the bed of the truck with new to and from lines ran. Tires are 37x13x16's on stock wheels. Front is getting 2" coil spacers and building new control arms out of kevlar lined heims and 1. 5 x . 250 dom tubing. The rear suspension has had all but 2 leaves removed to get better squat on launch through the pit.



Below are pictures of cutting the frame down and putting the new body on the truck, we cut 36" total out of the frame between the wheels and 3" off the rear. Truck now sits at 118" wheelbase.



Morph.



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