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Building the ultimate towing truck.

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What products would you suggest to build the ultimate towing ram?



Parameters: I would have to have the truck based on a 3500 SRW crew cab or MegaCab 4WD. I will lift it 2-4in. with 35's. 6-Speed, Gauges and E-Brake are a given.



1. Intake, turbo(twins?), intercooler.

2. Propane?, Snow?, Nitrous? Or none.

3. Fuel pump?

4. Fueling/timing boxes, Injectors.

5. Clutch?

6. Exaust.

7. Drivetrain.

8. 06 or EPA 07. 5?????



Opinions/Experience welcome.
 
What are you towing or are you reffering to sled pulling? I think a lot depends on what you want the truck to do and the rest falls on how much your wallet bulges. Big time mods are not for the budget build with out a lot of planning. We are going to need a little more info from ya!
 
I am referring to towing a 15K 5er, NOT sled pulling.



My current truck was built for racing, and has at least 100K in upgrades. But, it doesn't do very well towing. It's got alot of power, but it gets too hot for towing heavy. This is what I want to avoid.



I don't think you can build an 'ultimate' anything on a budget. I just want it to work very, very well.



What I need is something that will carry my family and 15K+ of toys safely to any location, up any hill, faster than my buddy's Furd.
 
I with that, then I would say



Twins

Intercooler (Banks or BD)

TST PowerMaxCR/Edge EZ stack

Exhaust/ Intake

Fass

Moderate injectors

Clutch upgrade (single or dual disk, your choice)



I think this would be the ultimate.

I have, however, towed a 13K lb trailer behind a 10K lb truck moded as follows -

2003 QC 4x4 DRW

TST

Super B single turbo

4" exhaust with Aeroturbine

Afe stage 2 intake

3. 73 gears

I had no problems pulling over some insane hills at insane speeds and with the Jake, the downhills were no problem. Oh, and all this was rolling on 35" tires. I don't think you are going to need as much as you think to get this done. Just think about how the different parts are going to act together and you'll be good. Hope this helps.

Jason
 
I tow a 15k 5ver



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For the suspension, I use the Roadmaster coils from mr. Bob's also I have 19. 5" Forged Aluminum rims with "F" rated 12 ply tires.



The engine mods are;



2nd stage injectors from bosch



K & N Air filter



Hybrid turbo HX 35/40 14 cm housing from industrial Injection



Jacobs engine brake on the elbow



Convert to Rear disk brake, added slotted front rotors and carbon Kevlar pads



Edge EZ and a 4-wire Blue chip Fueling box. . (I use this box sparingly... Mostly on hills)



South bend Con-OFE clutch for my 6 speed



Racor filter to 7# pusher pump to Fuel reglulator. (12-15# no matter what RPM)



I have 3. 54 gears. i added the Mag hytec covers on both axles, Synthetic fluid all around.



I tow my trailer on long vacations, I average 10 mpg on hills and hot weather... .



my future mod is to get the EC 450 horton fan clutch
 
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Look at my truck sig i tow with my box on 1x1 or 2x1 my 5er is 14000lbs it rock and rolls down the highway ;)

PS I have no problem on the hills with a fords or chevys :-laf :-laf
 
Blue Thunder said:
I am referring to towing a 15K 5er, NOT sled pulling.

... ... .....

What I need is something that will carry my family and 15K+ of toys safely to any location, up any hill, faster than my buddy's Furd.



Unless your friends ford has a lot of mods you will out pull it with a near stock Dodge. I pull a 15500 toy hauler up I-80 (to sand mountain) passing semis the whole way over the pass even if I have to slow down and get stuck behind them for a while. My truck has an AFE stg 2, Edge J/A, MBRP muffler, 4. 10 gears and a pacbrake. I can pull 60-65 up the pass without excessive EGT as long as I keep the edge turned down to 2. It doesn't have 35's on it and it is far from the "ultimate" towing rig but it does a great job.
 
Of course my buddies ford is heavily modded.



We both have the same 5er (the Raptor seen above).

Empty and on hp only, I've got him covered (easily). :D

But, when we are both loaded, climbing, he can leave it on the floor with propane on, and I am backing down to half throttle, box set on lowest setting, snow perf. on, just to keep the EGT's below 1500*.

Needless to say, he walks away from me every time. :{



Testosterone aside, it is a little nerve-racking when you are climbing a grade with the whole family in the truck and your dash has more lights going off than the Vegas Strip, from overheating. :eek:



BTW, I will spend what ever it takes to build 'the ultimate towing rig'. :rolleyes:

More than that, I am looking for the right combination of upgrades to make a great rig.
 
kelly4463 said:
Look at my truck sig i tow with my box on 1x1 or 2x1 my 5er is 14000lbs it rock and rolls down the highway ;)

PS I have no problem on the hills with a fords or chevys :-laf :-laf

How did you get your shiftwer to clear radios?
 
Blue Thunder said:
What products would you suggest to build the ultimate towing ram?

Parameters: I would have to have the truck based on a 3500 SRW crew cab or MegaCab 4WD. I will lift it 2-4in. with 35's. 6-Speed, Gauges and E-Brake are a given.

1. Intake, turbo(twins?), intercooler.
2. Propane?, Snow?, Nitrous? Or none.
3. Fuel pump?
4. Fueling/timing boxes, Injectors.
5. Clutch?
6. Exaust.
7. Drivetrain.
8. 06 or EPA 07. 5?????

Opinions/Experience welcome.

Ultimate towing rig when it's NOT a dually? Am I missing something? Anyway, to your list:

1) INTAKE: twins with stock turbo on top of Super Phat Shaft 66 from Industrial Injection. Factory aftercooler should be fine, as long as you don't have the plastic tanks (which you shouldn't on a newer truck0-- IIRC only the '05s had them). You'll also want to consider at least some ARP studs to help the hg hold on. Your factory MLS gasket with studs will hold a good amount.

2) DRUGS: no propane, just water/math and/or nitrous. Honestly, with the twins described above, you shouldn't need any of these. But water/meth is a little easier to do and cheaper to refill than Nitrous. Nitrous isn't a good towing power adder-- leave that for short bursts.

3) FUEL PUMP: since a newer truck HAS to electric, you might as well go with a FASS or somesuch. I'm partial to Aeromotive's Marine HP pump and matching bypass regulator.

4) BOXES: TST box and some Don M injectors. I also hear that the DDP injectors are impressing folks.

5) CLUTCH: I have no idea, since I think the DMF is still an unknown. Maybe SBC has come up with something.

6) Exhaust: any 4" or 5" will work. Try a SpinTech muffler to reduce drone.

7) Oddly enough, I'd actually recommend a full-boogie AUTOMATIC transmission for towing. As bad as they are in stock form, they are incredible when built properly. Full billet DTT isn't cheap, but it's hard to find anything better at ANY price. You'll want to go a little looser on the converter to help get a heavy load moving-- say 89% at the tightest. I own a 6-speed and love it. But an auto is the way to go for towing, as you can apply power to the load a lot more smoothly. JMO, I'm sure I'll get flamed.

8) Drivetrain: you can't get 4. 10s with the G56. I'd go auto and 4. 10s.

9) Definitely an 06. better to stick with what it known.

JMO, ymmv
 
Excellent info hohn. Just what I was looking for.



A couple of questions:



2) Why no propane?? Doesn't it work with the fuel to help the engine run cooler?



4) Sorry, who's Don M. ?



7) I can't agree. I've got the 'full-boogie auto' and there is just too much space in between gears. I even geared down to 4. 30's (with 36" tires) so that I could have 4 gears from 0-70 instead of 3. I am leaning heavy towards the G56, just wish more was known about them.
 
Blue thunder -

Don M is a diesel stud - http://www.f1diesel.com/ awesome stuff.



What about a full boogie auto with a gear vendors or the like over/underdrive to get ride of some of the gap? I am a manual transmission guy, even for towing but some rancher friends buck the trend and use an auto and love it...



what about a cam in that truck while you are at it? see above url too.

J
 
Let me update my above posting to state that a SPS66 is too small to use as a big turbo in twins.

I stand by all the rest:p
 
Blue Thunder said:
Excellent info hohn. Just what I was looking for.

A couple of questions:

2) Why no propane?? Doesn't it work with the fuel to help the engine run cooler?

4) Sorry, who's Don M. ?

7) I can't agree. I've got the 'full-boogie auto' and there is just too much space in between gears. I even geared down to 4. 30's (with 36" tires) so that I could have 4 gears from 0-70 instead of 3. I am leaning heavy towards the G56, just wish more was known about them.

You may need a little looser converter to help with the gearing gaps. But it's a band-aid, imo.


I don't like propane because it really ought to have a radically different calibration to perform optimally. When you start hitting propane, you need to have the timing retarded. The more propane, the more timing retard you need.

But this won't happen because the engine managment system can't "see" the propane being introduced, and even if it did, it wouldn't know to retard timing as a result.

Propane tends to speed up combustion-- which is a good thing, but ONLY when timing is adjusted properly. Now, small quantities if propane will only have a mild effect as far as creating the effect of advanced timing. This will probably help MPG, give a little more power and still be safe.

But the line separating "safe" from "too much" is far too thin for my liking. Overdoing the propane ends up simulating radically advanced timing (thus the need for the timing retard when using it).

The second thing is timing relative to engine load. In general, more load=less timing. So, now you go and add propane (which adds timing) while towing (which needs LESS timing), and it's a step in the wrong direction.


Possible consequences of this include a blown HG or worse in rare cases.


Nitrous and water/meth are much safer by comparison.


Nitrous makes available more oxygen for combustion. But IT IS NOT A FUEL. Therefore, the overall effect on timing is much less.

A simple analogy would be matches. How fast can you light matches? How fast can you make them burn?

Let's compare a fixed amount of ECM fueling to a book of matches-- i. e. a set amount of fuel.

Adding nitrous is much like lighting the book of matches in 2 places instead of one. Overall the book of matches will burn faster.

Adding water/meth is like lighting damp matches-- they burn, but slower and cooler.

Adding Propane is like adding another book of matches AND lighting them each in a couple places.


The autoignition temperature of Propane is 878°.
The autoignition temperature of Methanol is 851°

But that's for PURE methanol. When diluted with water, the overall effect in an internal combustion engine is milder for Meth than for C3H8.


Propane is fine, but I'd keep in <40hp to be safe. If you want/need more than 40hp boost, look elsewhere.


**JMO-- I'm no expert and this is just theory I have, so it may be wrong. Follow at your own peril**
 
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Hohn said:
(7) Oddly enough, I'd actually recommend a full-boogie AUTOMATIC transmission for towing. As bad as they are in stock form, they are incredible when built properly. Full billet DTT isn't cheap, but it's hard to find anything better at ANY price. You'll want to go a little looser on the converter to help get a heavy load moving-- say 89% at the tightest. I own a 6-speed and love it. But an auto is the way to go for towing, as you can apply power to the load a lot more smoothly. JMO, I'm sure I'll get flamed.
Justin,



I've towed heavy 5vers with both (47RE and NV5600). The gaps between gears are way too wide in the 47RE. With the automatic, I always found myself either running bunches of revs in a lower gear or unable to hold speed in the next higher gear. :mad:



It's much nicer having 6 more closely-spaced ratios to work with between 0 and 70 MPH. :D



The 6-speed Aisin automatic may just cure this problem and make me a slushbox convert on the next truck!



Rusty
 
I agree with Justin, with a few exceptions:

-I'd start with a Megacab, yank the bed, stretch the frame, and put a regular 8' dually bed on. Drop a dually rear in the back. 19. 5" wheels and tires all around. (If you really plan to tow heavy, a Dana 135 rear and 60 front with matching 10-lug BP out of an F550 would be sweet. )

-For twins, I'd run a hybrid Schwitzer from J. R. on top (spools like lightning but will flow more than your HY) and a B2 on bottom.

-Swap in an NV5600 with a nice SBC clutch, regear the axles to 4. 30 or 4. 56 (if you're running 35-36" tires).

-Drop a nice Helix cam from Don M in there when he gets one ready for the third gens and do a little portwork to the head too.

-O-ring it and stud it.

-Add a good set of traction bars, too.



Chris
 
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