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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Burned up my engine today
- Thread starter Cliffman
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Re: Thump Thump Thump??
My thought is a Hot spot in the cooling system in that part of the motor interrupting the flow to the stock location nipple. Weather reloacationg the nipple help the hot spot I don't know. Stopped the noise and NEVER has giving me a hit of cooling system problems. I was in eastern washington a couple years ago at about 16k or so 111 degrees on the overhead, going up pine cone canyon out of East Wenatchee. Needle never budged from the 180-190 mark with the AC on and holding 50MPH in 5th. More important, NO THUMPING.
jarsong
Originally posted by BUFF
What is this???
And what's the fix?
Inquiring minds want to know
My thought is a Hot spot in the cooling system in that part of the motor interrupting the flow to the stock location nipple. Weather reloacationg the nipple help the hot spot I don't know. Stopped the noise and NEVER has giving me a hit of cooling system problems. I was in eastern washington a couple years ago at about 16k or so 111 degrees on the overhead, going up pine cone canyon out of East Wenatchee. Needle never budged from the 180-190 mark with the AC on and holding 50MPH in 5th. More important, NO THUMPING.
jarsong
ERNIE, what happened to me is vary rare. These engines are very tough and can take a beating. We still don't know exactly what caused this problem but what ever it was I'm sure it was a freak thing. I don't believe using a box that advances timing while pulling a heavy load is what caused my problem. It will however cause premature ware and tear on the thrust side of your rod bearings therefore reducing the life of your engine BUT I don’t think a worn rod bearing will cause a piston to melt down. Just keep an eye on those EGT's and you’ll be just fine.
Re: Re: Re: Thump Thump Thump??
I know this is a little off topic, but people could think this noise is going to destoy there engine. Personally I think the bark is worse than the bite. I was just couldn't listen to the noise and feel to good about it.
So top of your cylinder head, down the passenger side is a row of pipe plugs. The stock heater fitting is in the I believe closest to the firewall. I'm not at my truck right now to go see. I just moved it forward one plug. I used the same fitting, just traded the location and bought a longer piece of heater hose to extend it further. I actually added flush connection as the splice. If I remember right I also increased the internal size of the fitting because it was restricted way down and I wanted water to get out of that area even if it made the water travel in higher volume in the heater core making noise, which it never did do.
There may very well be some engineering reasons why they restricted it so I can't recommend doing that part of the mod. I remember my 5. 0L mustang and 1986 Bronco II having the same restriction in the factory hose. Removed them as well and never noticed any difference. That thumping my truck had scared the bajesus out of me. I thought it was coming apart. I always noticed the guage needle taking larger shifts before the mod and 180 thermostat. Now it's rock steady and make plenty of heat for the Western Washington winters.
jarsong
jarsong
I know this is a little off topic, but people could think this noise is going to destoy there engine. Personally I think the bark is worse than the bite. I was just couldn't listen to the noise and feel to good about it.
So top of your cylinder head, down the passenger side is a row of pipe plugs. The stock heater fitting is in the I believe closest to the firewall. I'm not at my truck right now to go see. I just moved it forward one plug. I used the same fitting, just traded the location and bought a longer piece of heater hose to extend it further. I actually added flush connection as the splice. If I remember right I also increased the internal size of the fitting because it was restricted way down and I wanted water to get out of that area even if it made the water travel in higher volume in the heater core making noise, which it never did do.
There may very well be some engineering reasons why they restricted it so I can't recommend doing that part of the mod. I remember my 5. 0L mustang and 1986 Bronco II having the same restriction in the factory hose. Removed them as well and never noticed any difference. That thumping my truck had scared the bajesus out of me. I thought it was coming apart. I always noticed the guage needle taking larger shifts before the mod and 180 thermostat. Now it's rock steady and make plenty of heat for the Western Washington winters.
jarsong
jarsong
Originally posted by Cliffman
jarsong, I don't think relocating a heater hose would have cured my Thump, thump, thumpbut I'm very curious as to what is making that noise that is cured by moving a heater hose
Your right cliffman, I won't cure yours... HEHEHEHE... Only money and some elbo grease will fix yours... The DC fix for this issue is the special Thermostat. What the heck it does different I don't know. Only thought is it opens further letting a greater amout of Liquid through before closing. I always figure DC, Ford, GM is looking for cheap bandaid fixes for their TSB's. Someone on TDR figured it out and I found it searching the archives.
jarsong
________________________________________
Quote/question by "Cliffman":
"Should I use ETC pistons instead of ETH pistons?"
________________________________________
Cliffman:
Before you make a final decision, I would call Kent
Crowder at Scheid Diesel (Lafayette). They are now
a dealer for Arias Pistons and believe me they are
TOUGH!! For a little more than the cost of a "stock"
piston, you can have a piston which is stronger, lighter
and alot better at being able to handle the heat
of the Cummins 5. 9 engine, especially under the
conditions you use your truck! Heck it's worth a
try and the call is toll free!
Here is Kent Crowder's number:
1-800-669-3533
----------
John_P
Quote/question by "Cliffman":
"Should I use ETC pistons instead of ETH pistons?"
________________________________________
Cliffman:
Before you make a final decision, I would call Kent
Crowder at Scheid Diesel (Lafayette). They are now
a dealer for Arias Pistons and believe me they are
TOUGH!! For a little more than the cost of a "stock"
piston, you can have a piston which is stronger, lighter
and alot better at being able to handle the heat
of the Cummins 5. 9 engine, especially under the
conditions you use your truck! Heck it's worth a
try and the call is toll free!
Here is Kent Crowder's number:
1-800-669-3533
----------
John_P
Cliff. . I'd be interested in what Kent has to say. . please share with us after you call, if ya don't mind
"lighter
and alot better at being able to handle the heat
of the Cummins 5. 9 engine, especially under the
conditions you use your truck!"
Now THERE is an interesting contrast to the suggestion *I* made as to merely over-boring a SINGLE cylinder - and others said it would cause serious imbalance... and HERE is a suggestion to use "lighter" pistons - which would seemingly cause FAR more imbalance, unless the entire rotating assembly was removed and balanced... Pretty time consuming and expensive - remember, the rotating mass of the pistons is offset by the weight of the rotating counterweights on the crankshaft, which are either drilled, or increased in weight to balance the entire assembly. NOW, what do you think will introduce MORE imbalance - a SINGLE piston of slightly differing weight - or a whole SET?
and alot better at being able to handle the heat
of the Cummins 5. 9 engine, especially under the
conditions you use your truck!"
Now THERE is an interesting contrast to the suggestion *I* made as to merely over-boring a SINGLE cylinder - and others said it would cause serious imbalance... and HERE is a suggestion to use "lighter" pistons - which would seemingly cause FAR more imbalance, unless the entire rotating assembly was removed and balanced... Pretty time consuming and expensive - remember, the rotating mass of the pistons is offset by the weight of the rotating counterweights on the crankshaft, which are either drilled, or increased in weight to balance the entire assembly. NOW, what do you think will introduce MORE imbalance - a SINGLE piston of slightly differing weight - or a whole SET?
Last edited by a moderator:
You have to read my last few posts. The DC fix is that TSB. I found it searching here in the archives. I think the fix came from May madness a few years ago and worked on my truck. The heater hose nipple fix actually was part of another TSB having to do with another noise problem, just happened to fix both.
jarsong
Vaughn MacKenzie
TDR MEMBER
As far as putting in lighter pistons and/or rods, they only need to be ballanced with each other. Shouldn't be any need to do anything to the crankshaft although a good balance job will include crank balancing.
From what I understand it will not throw things out of kilter to put in lighter components than what the engine was set up for, and you don't need to do anything with the crank to compensate for it especially on a straight 6. You have direction-changing forces, and rotational forces, to account for, so in reality the forces are never really cancelled out especially the vertical ones.
Of course when building up a HiPo engine, the big ends of the rods must match in weight for rotational balance, as well as total weight for vertical balance.
Vaughn
From what I understand it will not throw things out of kilter to put in lighter components than what the engine was set up for, and you don't need to do anything with the crank to compensate for it especially on a straight 6. You have direction-changing forces, and rotational forces, to account for, so in reality the forces are never really cancelled out especially the vertical ones.
Of course when building up a HiPo engine, the big ends of the rods must match in weight for rotational balance, as well as total weight for vertical balance.
Vaughn
Cliffman,
I have read this tread from end to end and have been following your progress. You have my sympathy, if nothing else, we all are listening more closely to the sounds each of our Cummins makes.
I don't recall anyone asking, how are the cooling jets that spray the backs of the pistons? Or is the carnage too bad for it to matter?
Good luck with your rebuild.
Matt
I have read this tread from end to end and have been following your progress. You have my sympathy, if nothing else, we all are listening more closely to the sounds each of our Cummins makes.
I don't recall anyone asking, how are the cooling jets that spray the backs of the pistons? Or is the carnage too bad for it to matter?
Good luck with your rebuild.
Matt
Cliffman and jarsong;
The TSB FIX was the thermostat change. Dealer changed it out under warranty based on my complaint only and reference to the TSB which I found in the TDR, Fall '03 issue I believe. Mine now seems to run hotter than before. Still haven't pulled since the fix. Dealer tech stated that the "thump-thump-thump" wa sall the cold water from the radiator hitting the the heated coolant in the engine was waht he understood was cousing the noise. H'mmmmmmmm. The redo on the heater hose has my interest now. I had the keep the r's down to 2k pulling when after this noise appeared. I do hope it's fixed as it made me very nervous. Pulling hard I get the temp gauge to the 220 mark, turn off the air and throttle back has been the cure.
Even though this is off the topic here, does anyone have any more feedback. Many thanks... ...
The TSB FIX was the thermostat change. Dealer changed it out under warranty based on my complaint only and reference to the TSB which I found in the TDR, Fall '03 issue I believe. Mine now seems to run hotter than before. Still haven't pulled since the fix. Dealer tech stated that the "thump-thump-thump" wa sall the cold water from the radiator hitting the the heated coolant in the engine was waht he understood was cousing the noise. H'mmmmmmmm. The redo on the heater hose has my interest now. I had the keep the r's down to 2k pulling when after this noise appeared. I do hope it's fixed as it made me very nervous. Pulling hard I get the temp gauge to the 220 mark, turn off the air and throttle back has been the cure.
Even though this is off the topic here, does anyone have any more feedback. Many thanks... ...
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
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FREE!
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Renew
Subscribe
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Back Issues
Subscription Status
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Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
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What Makes Us Tick?
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