Burnout?

[o_mccarroll]

Maybe I'm just ignorant, but how do you do a burnout? Pressing the brakes holds the front and rear... Is there a way to just activate the front brakes? Or am I just missing something here?

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

You can just step on the brakes and do a burnout, the power of the engine will overcome the rear brakes (it will be easier if you have drum rears instead of discs). This will heat up the brakes and put wear on the pads. If you have drum rear brakes then you can back off the adjusters. With a manual transmission you use your right heel on the brake and your right toes on the throttle. Now if you want to do ones like this:



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then you need to install a roll control/line lock on the truck. It's a solenoid that goes between the proportioning valve and the front brakes. You step on the brakes and then hold a button down (mines on my shifter) and then release the brakes. The roll control keeps the pressure on the front brakes. It's a ton of fun! You can get a roll control for about $100 and their pretty easy to install, but you need a tubing bender and a flare tool to install the lines.

 

[Bad340fish]

Easy

Its easy to overpower the rear brakes. I have a five speed also. I get about 2K rpms, dump the clutch then jam the brakes on(not to hard. . enough to hold the truck) bury your foot in it and your doing a burnout! For some good marks I get them turning then let the brake off... hold it to the floor stomp shift 3rd and keep the rpms about 3K until it bites lol. Nice long smooth black marks. When I get another fueling box I should be able to get it into 4th lol. BTW my rear tires are bald

 

[pcorssmit]

Re: Easy

Originally posted by Bad340fish

BTW my rear tires are bald

Did you ever figure out what was causing that?



Pete

 

[Bad340fish]

Clutch problem... foot keeps slipping off of it lol

Clark

 

[MCummings]

These are fun.

If you have a 3500 and try burning out in 1st gear. (I had to drop clutch at 2. 7K RPMs) If your rear drums are in atleast "descent" adjustment there is a high risk the Rear-end "spider" gears will break.



I did a $450 burnout a while back, wasn't too fun.



Use common sense, if you get alot of axle chatter while doing a burn-out, quit the burnout and either try again, or settle with the fact that the ground you are on isn't good for burn-outs.

Axle chatter is extremely harsh on the drivetrain, and the Cummins motor, even in complete stock form, won't care about a driveshaft, or input shaft that is trying, or has stopped. The Cummins can twist nearly anypart of the drivetrain.

Just ask me, I got luck and "only" the spider gears gave way.





MerrickNJr

 

[larryq]

REAL trucks don't require the use of brakes to do a proper burnout!!!





Bad... Bad BOMBERS!!!!!



Brakes indeed... .



10 Minute time out called... .

Now go to your rooms and reflect on all that you've said!





heheheheheheheheheheheheheheheheheehhehehehehehehe





BOMB 'TILL IT HURTS!!!!!!!!



Larry

 

[Bad340fish]

Hey

Larry, I think this subject started on how to do a STATIONARY Burnout



As far as the no brake assist burnout your auto is quite a bit handicapped there isn't it??

Clark

 

[SteveH]

Hey Hey Hey,

I've got a 3500 and can get some pretty good scratch in second while taking off. I was worried that the duallies would create a bit too much for the driveline? All four rear tires spin when getting down on it in second or third (depending on the surface). Anybody blown anything burning out with the duallies (not standing still using the brakes)?

Steve H.

 

[MCummings]

I haven't broken anything while not using the brakes,, even while the drivetrain was impersonating a popcorn machine.



I have a little bigger tires on my truck than from stock trim (245/75's) and Have not had any probems related to tire spinning without the use of brakes.

My truck will do donuts like there's no tomorow, and if it's raining can spin the wheels from a standstill using 3rd gear, and releasing the clutch at redline (My truck is stock power-wise) all the way till you let up, or you hit about 35MPH actual speed. (not indicated)



One little trick I like to do sometimes,,



I take off in 1st gear, hit about 1500RPMs (not WOT) and then go to WOT and Shift into 2nd and dump the clutch (RPMs around the 3K mark). If I am doing a corner, the tail will do a powerslide for a second or so, and if I am going straight, the tires usually chirp 3 or 4 times. Impresses the heck out of little Honda's etc. And really launches the truck through the 5-20MPH Zone.



>Please note that I have officially 77K miles on my truck, and this truck has seen 70-80% of its mileage on Gravel roads at speeds over 30MPH and has been pulling a trailer that weighs between 19,000-30,000 Pounds. It is now retired, and is a daily driver in the city.





Be safe, have fun,

MerrickNJr





Disclaimer: This is my personal truck. These results are from my experiance, YOUR truck may be different or not as strong as my truck, therefore I claim no responsibility for broken parts.

I also claim no responsibility for Violations of city vehicle laws and/or regulations.

 

[Gizmo 007]

I can put it in second, rev up to 2k RPM, dump the clutch and away I go. As soon as the tires break loose, redline, grab 3rd, redline, brakes, and by now I've left 4 BIG NICE black streaks about 60 yds. long . One time I managed to get 4th gear. That was awesome. Guess you'd call that semi-stationary.



Bet I could have fun with one of those solenoids.

 

[DaveN]

Burnout Modifications

For those of you that really want to go nuts with it and take some load off of your drivetrain, just hook up an old washer reservoir somewhere and run the discharge lines into your wheel wells. Run a little on/off switch into your cab. Fill the reservoir with your favorite "tire lubricant" and pump for a few seconds before you take off.



When I was in high school I had an old POS car that didn't have enough in it to spin the tires on dry pavement, but with a little help from some soapy water I managed to undercoat my right rear wheel well. Of course you shouldn't need it because of power reasons with the Cummins, but reduced friction is better for your drivetrain, and you don't tend to wheel hop as bad.



By the way I don't have this installed on mine... ... now that I'm married I can't afford new tires all the time.

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Fire 'em up ! Lite 'em if ya got 'em

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Truck Bio:

Y2K+1 3500 4X4 Quad Cab 4:10:1 LSD



Powerpack By Bank's (4 inch exhaust,High ram intake,wastgate mod to 38 psi,ottomind TLC +guages,K&N) , Jakit's Front End Leveling Kit with 255/85R16 BFG http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/ M/T's Custom Rhino Liner (see Tool Man's truck feature)DeeZee Black Diamond Plate Bed Rails And Tool Box , WAAG Side tubes with kick~outs Mopar Performance accessories-Sill plates-hitch cover-cargo aux lamp'n'Power, Hadley air systems 150 psi comp and air storage. DTT~93%TC~&~VB~TC Smart controller, Mag-Hytec'sDouble Deep Trans pan,DD injectors+Van Aken+Autometer Guages. Check out Tool's Stuff#ad

 

[o_mccarroll]

ToolMan-



I already figured out the motorcycle burnout on the Buell S1



Otis.

 

[1tuffram]

This may be a bit off topic, but how much HP and/or torque is needed to "lite'em up" from a rolling start or say cruising around town and punching the go-pedal? It would be great to pull along side a rice burner or PSD while cruising, egg 'em on then leave them in a cloud of tire smoke

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

wELLLLL

dEFINATLY A horsepower issue. Torque gets something moving from a start and HP carrys that speed along. (Example F1 racer... ... 765-820 HORSEPOWER and 58-80 fT # of torque) Mainly thats why they can achieve 212+ MPH and MAINTAIN that speed But can Scratch rubber at 70+Mph



Anyone else on this???

 

[pcorssmit]

In order to make 820 hp w/only 80 ft-lbs of torque, that motor would be spinning at 53,833 rpm.



Pete

 

[DaveN]

My 0.02......well maybe a little more.

Well, I've shredded probably well over thirty tires in my short life, and this is my take on the anatomy of a burnout... ...



1. From a dead stop, a specific amount of torque is required to spin the tire. From there, in order to keep the tire spinning, you need to either keep the car from accelerating (brakes) or get the tire spinning even faster (adding heat and reducing friction). Most tires need to spin for a certain period of time before they start making smoke, which is my motivation for doing a burnout. That smell is better than perfume to me... but I digress. Once the tire gets really hot, most vehicles can carry it (the burnout) for a while, making a nice smoke cloud and leaving about $20 worth of rubber on your inner fenderwells and on the road.



2. An old tarvey (spelling?) road provides the best burnout opportunties. The surface of the road almost looks wet all the time, and is very smooth, as compared to concrete or blacktop. Once you get the tires going it's really easy to do burnouts for 100+ feet with a little braking help.



3. As far as pulling up next to someone at speed, waving a middle finger and stomping on it and expecting to smoke them out well that's really tough. The reason is that it's harder to build up the heat in the tire when it's hitting fresh cool pavement on every rotation. It's also a little more difficult to break the tires loose, since you are generally in a higher gear. Therefore you have less torque hitting the pavement. One of the ways some guys do it is through inertia, i. e. revving up an engine and dumping the clutch. The inertia of the engine spinning has to go somewhere, and if you can build up enough, you can break the tires loose. But chances are you won't be able to carry it without alot of torque and horsepower.



4. One of the problems with diesels and burnouts is that they don't wind up as fast as gas engines. Once you break the tires loose, it's easier for the engine to spin them. but if the engine rev's up slowly, it gives your vehicle a chance to accelerate, therefore making it harder to keep the tires spinning. Gas engines will wrap up alot faster, therefore increasing the tire speed faster, therefore building up more heat in the tire, and reducing friction (due to the fluid dynamics of molten rubber... . )



SO, if you want to burn rubber, you need torque to get you started. Then either high torque and a lower gear ratio (i. e. airplane gears) to keep it going, or a high revving quick accelerating engine and lower ratio gears. I have a 1984 Buick regal (with full grocery getter grandma chrome) that I shoehorned a built 455 buick into, and kept the 2. 41 rear axle in there. Flat footing it a 200+ foot burnout was no problem, and by time the tires hooked up I was doing 70 mph. (now I have a 3. 73 posi, it's set up more for 1/4 mile) High torque low gears. My friend has a 65 chevelle, with a high winding balanced 350 and a four speed. Once he get's going he holds it to the floor and speed shifts to keep his burnout going. I guess the whole thing boils down to keeping the tire hot and spinning really fast.



Sorry about the long winded response, but I love burnouts. I won a contest with my old 1/2 ton ram, cost me $500 worth of tires but we blocked the front tires,I knew I'd better stop when the speedo read 95mph and my friend walked up to the truck and said," Dave there are sparks coming off your rear tires. " gotta love it!!!!

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Well Somewhere arround there

Originally posted by pcorssmit

In order to make 820 hp w/only 80 ft-lbs of torque, that motor would be spinning at 53,833 rpm.



Pete

F1's Run upwards to 20,400 RPM's full wind so yeah maybe a few more Ftlbs + or - 100#ad

 

[John]

Pretty Cool Burnouts However.....

I would have to say Stefan Kondolay did the perfect burnout in the DTT parking lot this past April (on "dyno day"). Of course, autos rule in the burnout department!