Buying '78 Lil Red Express Truck

[HPSimpson]

Ron, First off mach it under Mobile Suites then beat the crap out of the box for hours, Second use Channel Locks ( Hogs) to straighten out box so latches would work, Third Polish the box added some brackets! That's the greats back story I ever heard!

 

[Wiredawg]

Heres a pic inside to give better idea of former damage. Fortunately it's not visible from the outside.

Had it been right side up, likely wouldn't have been salvageable.

Cheers, Ron

 

[HPSimpson]

So what will you carry in this box? Ear Muff's due Loud stereo! Jumpier Cables to help others, maybe nothing at all, box stickler for looks.

 

[Wiredawg]

jumper cables, a few tools, fender protector, some folded cardboard (poormans creeper), and maybe a gallon of coolant. Going to find a used steel wheel and buy a new 78 series tire for a spare... the 78s didn't come with a spare had G60s front, L60s rear. the 79s had L60s all the way around and had a spare. Everything that goes down the road has to have a spare.

Cheers, Ron

 

[HPSimpson]

Yes way more important to get a spare tire now before you take that cruise, now the bigger question is there place underneath car mount or under your super duper metal box on the bed hmm? Don't even think about putting under tool box without some serious protection of the wood finish!

 

[Wiredawg]

Friends,

Thought I would share I replaced the cooling fan clutch... the old one mostly free wheeled. It's remarkable the truck didn't run hot, although I've never driven it in traffic. All is well in Pleasantville! Been driving in the country a lot...I like all the two lane country roads around here.

Well, 'til next time fellow Mopar lovers.

Happy Trails, Ron

 

[HPSimpson]

Great you are driving Lil Red Express truck on county roads enjoy yourself and wife of course!

 

[Wiredawg]

Friends,

Been a while since I posted... looking for any tips you may have for removing the timing chain cover to check timing chain for excessive wear or if I should even do it. Back when I performed major tune up, I noticed timing mark jumping 4 to 5 degrees a lot. I know timing isn't always steady, but my experience is a degree or so. Also, noticed temps running 70 to 75 percent on temp gauge, which could be caused by excessive advance on timing. Also thinking about performing compression testing on the cylinders.

EDIT: FSM has pretty good timing belt checking instructions, citing no mor than 1/8inch play on the cam gear while holding crank gear. Also, if excessive play found, would you replace gears and chain?

Appreciate any input and suggestions.

Cheers, Ron

 

[brucejohnson]

Friends,

Been a while since I posted... looking for any tips you may have for removing the timing chain cover to check timing chain for excessive wear or if I should even do it. Back when I performed major tune up, I noticed timing mark jumping 4 to 5 degrees a lot. I know timing isn't always steady, but my experience is a degree or so. Also, noticed temps running 70 to 75 percent on temp gauge, which could be caused by excessive advance on timing. Also thinking about performing compression testing on the cylinders.

Appreciate any input and suggestions.

Cheers, Ron

Ron,
Timing should be pretty solid unless you have some loose stuff. The centrifugal advance in the distributor may have spring or worn pivot point issues, distributor shaft bushing wear, vacuum advance leak, and of course, more than likely, Murphy will inject the most difficult fix needed...the timing chain.
You could take a valve cover off and adjust a rocker arm to some lifted position then, using the crank bolt, see how much the crank has to turn before the cam/lifter/rocker arm moves. I don't know of any value, but if it appears excessive then dig in. Not too tough of a job on those easy to get to engines where you just sit on the fender to do most engine work. If there is a way to put the distributor on a machine, I'd start there.

 

[HPSimpson]

Ron,
Timing chain stretch or do you have gears, that seems timing is way advance when you did the tune-up you said you return to 10 degrees advance or near to what factory said. In order to remove the timing cover most likely will need to drain the coolant, remove the hoses from the radiator, now pull the radiator out, so you can have some room to work and remove the timing cover.
Now with cover off you can look at timing chain or gears and then analyze what next step will be.

 

[Wiredawg]

Thanks! will likely be several days to get into it, but since I don't have a lot of experience with gas engines, like getting feedback from folks like you.

I'll certainly check the rockers first and can certainly pull the distributor to have it checked out.

I'll post again when i get to it. Thanks again.

Cheers, Ron

 

[GCroyle]

Ron

I’ll look see if I have any worthy pics from my timing chain R&R on the M880 318 I owned. It was worn and new chain and sprockets idled much smoother.

Take care, hows the ankle?

Gary

 

[DavidC]

If they are stock (probably are) the rockers are non adjustable, the rocker tube just slides through the rocker on a hydraulic cam. The solid lifter cams have adjustable rockers. Been a long time since I did this and HP is correct on the removal process except I also removed the fan. I always ran a Cloyes double roller timing chain. I believe the water pump comes off with the cover

 

[Wiredawg]

Hi Gary,

Thanks on the help. If it is worn or something going on with distributor, it's not severe, just a combination of small issues that are bugging me.

Ankle is OK, been doing more ladder work than I should, I'm not hurting my ankle, but its reminding me to pace myself. Got 6 yards of road base to redo my three 1600 gallon rain catcher/storage tanks.

Thanks, Ron

 

[Wiredawg]

Ron,
Timing chain stretch or do you have gears, that seems timing is way advance when you did the tune-up you said you return to 10 degrees advance or near to what factory said. In order to remove the timing cover most likely will need to drain the coolant, remove the hoses from the radiator, now pull the radiator out, so you can have some room to work and remove the timing cover.
Now with cover off you can look at timing chain or gears and then analyze what next step will be.

Thanks Homer, I think my type A is driving this, but worthwhile to pursue.

If they are stock (probably are) the rockers are non adjustable, the rocker tube just slides through the rocker on a hydraulic cam. The solid lifter cams have adjustable rockers. Been a long time since I did this and HP is correct on the removal process except I also removed the fan. I always ran a Cloyes double roller timing chain. I believe the water pump comes off with the cover

Dave, I believe you're correct on the rockers.


I really appreciate the responses. I want to get the mechanicals on the truck all tight before getting the AC fixed.

Thanks and Cheers, Ron

 

[brucejohnson]

You could take a valve cover off and adjust a rocker arm to some lifted position then, using the crank bolt, see how much the crank has to turn before the cam/lifter/rocker arm moves.

If they are stock (probably are) the rockers are non adjustable, the rocker tube just slides through the rocker on a hydraulic cam.

Dave, I believe you're correct on the rockers.

I apparently should have worded my valve cover/rocker arm a bit differently.
I meant to load the cam-lifter-push rod-rocker arm to where a motion is observed in one direction of the cam while turning the crank bolt. Then slowly turn the crank bolt in the opposite direction and note the distance/angle of the crank bolt wrench turns when the rocker arm begins to move. This would indicate some degree of chain stretch/looseness.
Aw heck. It may be easier to take the distributor cap off and watch the rotor as that is gear driven off the cam, but may add any distributor error (worn bushings, gears, etc.) to the observation. Still a quicker check before digging deeper.

 

[GCroyle]

Ron,

1977 M880. It took a bit to find these but FWIW. I think the pic of the sprockets is trying to show where I thought the wear took place. The wiring and dash are just BTDT sympathy shots. I sold this one years ago, wanted to take out the AT and put in a handshaker, dream didn't happen. But still have the NP435 and parts.

Gary

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Good Morning. Looks like good advice so far. The cam sprocket has plastic on the gear teeth to make it quieter. The Crank sprocket does not. If the plastic starts to crack and break off, you will have more slop, especially when those teeth are in contact with the chain. The plastic comes off more on high mileage engines or when run in a hotter climate (think Phoenix AZ).

I agree - go with a good double roller rather than a stock unit.

Regarding the distributor Check the following:
- Bushings - take the rotor off (obviously after taking off the cap). put your finger on the shaft and try to move sideways - shouldn't move much at all - if it does you need bushings. You can replace these if you find someone to sell you the bushings - fairly easy to do.
- disconnect the vacuum advance vacuum line and plug it, does the timing still jump around?
- make sure no leak in the diaphragm of the vacuum advance.
- I've seen where pivots inside the distributor become worn and allow movement that shouldn't be there.
- make sure the gap between the reluctor and pickup is correct.

The FSM should give you guidance on these things - if not I'll dig into my manuals and see if I can find info and PM you them.

 

[Wiredawg]

Friends,

Again thanks for all the input. Had an idea thought I'd get input from you. Would connecting truck to Sun diagnostic machine diagnose what's going on with the engine? Thought I would share symptoms I've noticed.-- RPM swing... Engine analyzer tach more sensitive than tach in truck.
- Engine seems to run on the higher end of the temp gauge scale.
- Doesn't exactly have a miss, but acts like it has lope like an aftermarket cam.
- Hard starting after sitting a couple days.
- Has great acceleration and cruising.

It has new voltage regulator, alternator, distributor cap, rotor, plug wires. plug. Vacuum is good at idle, 15 on the gauge. I did cap off vacuum advance when tuning it.

I actually have radiator off and going to clean it. I flushed cooling system twice and still have a fair amount of calcium in the radiator. The radiator looks good to me... no corrosion or deterioration. Any recommendations for more agressive cleaning out of the truck by me or is it better to take it to a radiator shop?

I have a slight oil drip towards back of engine I need to trace to determine if its valve cover, rear engine seal or what.

Sorry to throw more logs on the fire, but I guess having an older vehicle with unknown past has its challenges, as many of y'all know. Still excited, and still love the truck.

Thanks, and cheers, Ron

 

[GCroyle]

Radiator off, lots move elbow room to inspect or R&R timing components.