By-Pass Filtration System

[fire8033]

Can anyone explain the By-pass Filtration, I have read ALOT of post refering to it but have found none explaining exactly what it does. Does it by-pass the current oil filter or is it in addition to the filter????

 

[RobertP]

the ones i have seen run along with the stock oil filter for added filtration.

pm me for a good price on one.

 

[Diesel Power]

Oo. the best filtration you will get with a full flow filter is a donaldson endurance, it filters 98. 7% at like 15 microns and 50-60 % at 7 mircrons. in a dition to that the by pass (AMSOIL EA ) will filter after this filter to a unpresidented 2 microns at about 100%, and the best part is its proven to filter 39% of soot, and up tp a pint of water---all in the same filter. this is at least twice as good as any other spin on filter on the market,this will enable you to extend your drains a good bit, and is even better with all AMSOIL fluids, like rob said give him a call and he will hook you up.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Can anyone explain the By-pass Filtration, I have read ALOT of post refering to it but have found none explaining exactly what it does. Does it by-pass the current oil filter or is it in addition to the filter????

Here's a thread on the Frantz bypass setup that shows how that system operates - and in general is typical in function to them all:



http://turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98863



As to efficiency, they ALL make strong claims and provide statistics on what they CLAIM they will do - here is another thread as to what a Frantz type WILL do in real life operation, as displayed by actual oil analysis and particle sount:



http://turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161518&highlight=particle+count



And here's still another:



http://turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161761&highlight=particle+count



It sure would be informative if some users of various brands/types of bypass filters wouls step up and show similar capabilities of what THEY are using for direct comparison - or even general comparison.



It's undoubtedly true that ANY bypass filter brand/type is better than NONE - but still, it sure would be neat to know which one is really BEST in real world usage!

 

[Diesel Nut]

Its called a bypass because it does not recieve the full flow of the oil system. Much of the oil bypasses the filter at any given time. It takes a small amount of oil at a time and filters it to a much more exacting amound and then returns it to the system. Full flow filters, Like the Donaldson for example, are limited in how much fitering they can do not by size or media type or anything but by flow. It has to allow a certain amount of flow. So your filter media can only be so small before it restricts the oil flow too much and the engine suffers. A bypass filter can only flow so much. However, when combined, you get a very effiecent filtering system that is capable of removing a ton of contaminates.



As for those of you that want a comparison, I don't really know how I can help there, but in the coming months I will be installing an Amsoil bypass to work with my Amsoil 5w-30. and using oil analysis. I will post my findings as i get them.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

As for those of you that want a comparison, I don't really know how I can help there, but in the coming months I will be installing an Amsoil bypass to work with my Amsoil 5w-30. and using oil analysis. I will post my findings as i get them.

SUPER!



It would be great to compile a fairly broad database of competing bypass filter performance - the new Donaldson stuff Amsoil has come out with looks very interesting, and I'm currently using one to replace the Fleetguard 3894 I previously was using - we'll see how that compares to the fleetguard as well...

 

[SHobbs]

Gary,



I have a question about the Frantz oil by pass you're using. I have seen others that route the return to the oil fill on top of the valve cover, can the Frantz be routed this way? I been on the fence for a while on a by pass system and I like the Frantz the most so far.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Gary,



I have a question about the Frantz oil by pass you're using. I have seen others that route the return to the oil fill on top of the valve cover, can the Frantz be routed this way? I been on the fence for a while on a by pass system and I like the Frantz the most so far.

YUP - here's the return as used with my Frantz:



#ad




Sorry to always be coming off like a Frantz salesman - there are several VERY decent bypass outfits out there that undoubtedly do EXCELLENT jobs - it's just that the Frantz is what I personally have used for MANY years, with excellent results - and oil analysis to back it up.

 

[steved]

I don't know where Gary got his return, but I got the return from Amsoil for an Amsoil system I plumbed together... also, if you have a ratcheting cap, Napa sells a Stant that works great for the return fitting... .



steved

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I got my swivel return fitting thru an Amsoil salesman while at May Madness in '03 - I also use one of the Stant replacemet caps as the base, since the stock cap is unsuited for modification - as I recall, the Stant # on mine was 11111 - but Alzheimers comes here to visit more often nowadays... :-laf

 

[amsoilman]

Can anyone explain the By-pass Filtration, I have read ALOT of post refering to it but have found none explaining exactly what it does. Does it by-pass the current oil filter or is it in addition to the filter????

By-Pass filtration is a secondary filter with the purpose of eliminating nearly ALL contaminants in engine oil. They have high capacities and eliminate much smaller particles than "Full-Flow" filters, including soot.



They are called "By-Pass" filters because the oil flows from the By-Pass filter back to the sump and ByPasses the engine components.



The picture is of the Amsoil By-Pass system. It is a "seperate" filter conected in Parallel with the "FULL-FLOW" Oil filter. It filters approximately 10 percent of the oil at all times (6 quarts every 5 minutes@40 PSI oil pressure) due to an orriface in the return side and the filtering media inside. All the oil eventually flows through the By-Pass element.



The Amsoil By-Pass element is a "spin-on", and is 98. 7% @ 2 Micron efficent(absolute) as per ISO 4548-12, and will remove 39 percent of soot contaminants less than one micron!



Wayne

amsoilman

 

[steved]

... the by pass (AMSOIL EA ) will filter after this filter to a unpresidented 2 microns at about 100%, and the best part is its proven to filter 39% of soot, and up tp a pint of water---all in the same filter.

I know the older Amsoil BE series bypass filters would remove water, but I think that was one complaint about these newer EA's... they don't remove water.



Wayne, can you confirm this?



steved

 

[amsoilman]

I know the older Amsoil BE series bypass filters would remove water, but I think that was one complaint about these newer EA's... they don't remove water.



Wayne, can you confirm this?



steved

I do not beleive the new EaBP (by-pass elements) will filter out water, as they now use a more restrictive synthetic and cellulose blended media as the inner layer of the element, and a highly efficient synthetic media fused over the first layer to become the outer layer of the element.



These newer elements (EaBP) were tested using the ISO standard 4548-12, and had aan absolute efficiency of 98. 7% @ 2 Microns. In addition, soot removal was determined to be weighted average of 39% according to test method ISO 23556.



The older type elements (BE) had media made from cellulose and could absorb some water. They were also tested using the SAE J806 protocol, without a focus on soot removal capability. Using this SAE J806 protocol, the BE elements were 98. 6% at 3 Microns.



Hope this helps,



Wayne

amsoilman

 

[HarryOlson]

Fire8033: I have used by-pass filters for the past several years on gas and diesel engines with good success. Look at this website (http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi)

for additional information. In the past I have used Oilgard, Amsoil and Motor Guard filters. All were fine. Good luck, Harry

 

[ACoffel]

STEVED, which bypass filter do you use and where did you mount the filter/base ?

I know you have the Amsoil , but I mean which filter in particular ? What pickup and return locations did you use ? I have the BMK11 with a EABP100 on order , but the

kit is on backorder. From the posts above, I would gather that the entrance side

line is plumbed into the top of the stock full flow filter mount or from a tee on the

sending unit and the return is to the filler cap. Is this correct or are there better

methods? I'm also considering an engine preluber.

 

[steved]

STEVED, which bypass filter do you use and where did you mount the filter/base ?

I know you have the Amsoil , but I mean which filter in particular ? What pickup and return locations did you use ? I have the BMK11 with a EABP100 on order , but the

kit is on backorder. From the posts above, I would gather that the entrance side

line is plumbed into the top of the stock full flow filter mount or from a tee on the

sending unit and the return is to the filler cap. Is this correct or are there better

methods? I'm also considering an engine preluber.

I got the filter head and a couple BE-90s off ebay... the filter head (a true amsoil unit) is just the standalone bypass filter head... NOT the combination unit with both the fullflow and bypass filters... I am using Mopar filters in the stock fullflow filter location. WATCH if you buy these on eBay as several are being touted as "bypass filters" and yet they do not have any flow restrictors/orifices in them...



My mounting, well, it was a little different to say the least... it is mounted in front of the passenger's rear tire for ease of installation and room savings (basically, it is in the mirrored position of my FASS)... it is attached to a bed crossmember... I used 1/4" hydraulic line to run to-from the filter... I also installed a 12" extruded aluminum cooler on the return line...



And the oil is pulled from the top of the engine's filter head (1/8" NPT) and dropped back in at the filler cap using the Amsoil swivel fitting and a solid Stant cap.



When I originally installed the filter, I was getting 2-4 ounces a minute, a far cry from the 6 quarts/5 minutes... so I drilled the orifice out a couple times. I went too big the first time (my 1/16" bit broke), so I used a 5/64"... it was too much flow for me... I brazed the hole hut and redrilled it (in a press this time) to 1/16" and it is perfect at about 20 ounces/minute... which should give plenty of residence time in the filter.



During this farting around I managed to booger up one of the BEs and then at 8k, I change the second one out (figuring the first one to go that far should have gotten any hung up garbage that might have washed out). I am currently running a eABP-100.



It has made a difference. I plan on running 10k on oil changes and 20k on the bypass filters... the oil is still black, however, the engine doesn't "click" and "tap" like it did when the oil got some miles on it before the bypass was installed. I currently have 8k on this oil change and the oil still feels and looks good... figuring DC recommends 15k oil changes, I don't feel oil analysis is warranted in my case...



Oh, and the cooler, while it does significantly drop temps, doesn't flow enough oil IMO to do much good... but it made me feel good about putting it on there!







I added some pictures... the first is the filterhead showing the orifice... and yes, it looks like a pin hole.



The second is showing the mounting location of the filter and head... the last one is showing the cooler mounted on the frame below the passenger's feet.



I also have a picture showing it all laid out of the floor for size and whatnot, but TDR will only allow you to post each picture once...





steved

 

[KWarren]

I just purchased a bypass system from OilGaurd. http://www.oilguard.com/index.php

Price was good. We will see if it works as advertised. I have yet to receive it though.



In fact I have just purchased a bunch of items for my new 04 quad 3500.

Banks 6 gun

Pac brake

MBRP Exhaust

SB air filter sys

6 speed trans filter frm geno's

Can't wait to get all those installed and try it out.

I will review these changes when I get a chance. With Speed week just a few weeks away I will be busy as hell for the next month though.

Kev

 

[J.BURCHFIELD]

It is an additional filter. It should be a 2 micron filter. The way it is hooked up all the engine oil passes through the by-pass filter about every 45 minutes of steady highway operation. The oil in your regular filter has to pass through fast enough to supply your engine with the needed volume of oil therefore much larger particels can pass though your regular filter. With a by-pass filter installed the larger particles, if any, are removed. With 100% synthetic oil and a by-pass filter your engine does not wear, it just polishes. If you start out with a low mileage engine you can expect one million miles or more before overhaul is needed without ever changing the oil, just the filters. When changing filters be sure to fill the canisters with oil so as not to starve the turbo bearings on initial start up. Synthetic oil does not break down like regular engine oil. If you have any doubts you could send oil samples to be analyzed as you go along. At filter change is a good time to fill the sample container with old oil. The report will come back saying there is no reason to not continue to use the oil. For those that have had the old way pounded in our heads it is hard to accept and you may not want to do it. The big rigs (semi's) do it and they get a million miles. REGARDS Jim, -- email address removed --

 

[ACoffel]

Steved, thankyou for the info and pics. It looks like you have a nice setup . What

is a Stant cap ? I'm assuming this is a brand name. Where can these be purchased?

Do you know the P. N. for the Amsoil swivel fitting ?

 

[steved]

Steved, thankyou for the info and pics. It looks like you have a nice setup . What

is a Stant cap ? I'm assuming this is a brand name. Where can these be purchased?

Do you know the P. N. for the Amsoil swivel fitting ?

The oil filler cap is made by Stant... I got mine from Napa IIRC... it is a pretty thick/tough plastic without the ratchet mechanism... makes a prefect cap to drill for the swivel. The factory ratcheting fill cap would be next to impossible to drill, tap, and install the fitting into.



The amsoil swivel fitting is PN BP89, IIRC. Check with Amsoil to be sure that is the correct number.



I will only add that one concern about my mounting location is that it might not work too good when really cold weather hits... but, there again, I'm still not relying on it as much as someone running a bypass to keep synthetics clean.



steved