Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) By pass oil filter

[JCyrbok]

Anyone running a By pass oil filter, suchas the amsoil, or other brand? How do u like it. Hows you oil analysis? Where did u mount it and why? how easy was it to install?



ANy comments good or bad.



J-



ps Also is there a way to change out the differitial fluids with out taking the covers off to drain? ( I hate gaskets)

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Most of the currently available bypass filters have proven many times to greatly lower contaminent levels in the oil by actual analysis - proper mounting that avoids serious interference with other underhood maintenance CAN be a problem in these later trucks, and is the reason I havent yet installed my own Frantz bypass filter...



There are "sucking" guns that can be used to insert thru the filler plug in transmisions and differentials - but most of us prefer to bite the bullet to remove the covers and more completely clean and inspect those units - as well as also clean the magnets inside som of them of the accumulated crud...

 

[amsoilman]

If you wish to see som einstalled by-pass units, go to www.1gr8oil.com and click on the "Dodge installed By-pass" link.



Wayne

 

[fest3er]

See also http://home.adelphia.net/~npmrphy/amsoil/amsoil.html for an install of a dual remote bypass unit.

My analysis has looked good for almost 60K miles.

Fest3er

 

[Deezul1]

I mounted mine right beside the passenger side battery. I installed a petcock valve at the filter mount with a piece of copper tubing coming out of it and to get a sample of the oil I just wipe it off good and open the valve with the engine running and there is my oil sample. I believe if I was to do it over I would go with a single bypass unit and leave the full flow filter in the stock position as that way you only are remot mounting 1 filter instead of 2 so it takes less room but the filtering capacity remains the same.

 

[JCyrbok]

room?

Deezul is the room in the engine compartment the only reason u would go with a single if doing it again? Or someother reason?I have optima batteries and think that I would be OK room wise. I'm looking for the good. the bad, and the ugly of any product that I use on/in my truck.



Thanks

J

 

[Deezul1]

Its not primarily for the room, I just think that removeing your stock filter and moving it somewhere else for no reason and replacing it with an adapter just doesnt make sense. If you use the single bypass unit it uses the exact same bypass filter and you continue using the stock filtration in the stock location instead of moving it. Some folks have some problems with the adapter leaking but I havnt. The Amsoil dual bypass filter head will not take a Cummins threaded filter for the full flow unit but a Ford type filter Fram PT# PH8A will work so you dont have to buy the expensive Amsoil full flow filter. Just dont use the fram filter, cross refrence that PT# to the filter of your choice but not Fram.

The single bypass oil supply line will come from the plugged hole on top of the oilfilter mount on the engine and then you have to have a return line going back into the engine. Most guys run it into the valve cover. Or the filler cap on 24V trucks.

 

[PMalin]

I have been using an oilguard single bypass filter and have been getting excellent lab reports. Also just looking at oil on the dipstick, it's very clean even with (extended miles on oil per lab analysis recommendation). Used aeroquip hose and fittings, and modified a stock oil cap with a return line fitting. It's difficult to find a good place to mount it though, and I went to an extreme and mounted it on the inside of the frame rail behind the transmission. Yes, it was a fair run of hose, but not that bad, and included a miniature shutoff valve up near the port at the stock filter where I connected, in case there was ever a need to shut it off. Adds about 2 more quarts of oil to the system, but now can use the higher price good oil, and run extended intervals with supporting lab tests, and dont have to go through the hassle changing as often. Oo.

 

[americana]

one word for you!

CPFF



he is a tdr member with a whole mounting kit for the amsoil dual bypass. a leakproof billet adapter, ss lines and battery mount. one stop shopping. the kit is totally high quality. i made the mistake of getting a battery mount and ss lines from someone else. i suffered from a leaky amsoil oil filter adapter. cpff's billet adapter took care of it!!!

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

The battery mount arrangements I have seen pics of so far look a bit too "shade tree" to suit me - and also too flimsy for long term support. So far, a mount down just below the passenger side battery seems best - cramped, but I think it'll work... The oil return bit is still up in the air on my '02 HO - the plugged off return down just above the rear lower edge of the block appeals to me, but haven't figured out the best/easiest way to either remove or tap into it...

 

[VietDoc]

J-

I installed the Amsoil dual by-pass system and love it. I have had several problems with the dealer oil changes, but that is another story.



I copied the passenger side battery mount with attachment at the top and bottom. http://www.syntheticlubes.com/dual_remote_filtration_for_dodge.html My main problem was using thicker steel than the plan. So getting the angle of the filter bracket took some time. I wanted to make sure the alternator didn't touch or hit the filter, but still have room to bolt it on. I placed mine a little higher to try to clear the plastic radiator overflow tank. I also changed the top bolt system. I made the two bolt areas slip under the battery hold down clamp and added a top angle (like the bottom one) with a hole for the battery hold down bolt to go through.



The Amsoil installation was easy. I cut the hoses a little long first then had to cut them once or twice more. I thought this was better than cutting them too short. I used the standard Amsoil kit, FOLLOWED the directions and have not had a leak or any other problem. Of course I only have about 8K miles so far. Up to about 5K the oil looked like I just changed it. Now (8K) it looks like I ran the engine for 5 minutes after changing, meaning it has a little soot in it but you can see clean oil there too.



The installation is kind of shade tree, but it is under the hood and we don't show the truck. I looked at mounting it under the passenger seat or behind the front bumper and in front of the tire, but didn't like those options.



We are planning on getting a '03 CTD 3500 to pull a heavy 5er and will absolutely get another Amsoil dual by-pass filtration system. The only problem will be finding a place to mount it.



Richard

Remember Veterans Day -- To those who have fought for it, freedom has a flavor the protected will never know. - unknown author - found written in a foxhole in Korea.

my little corner of the world http://www.agrentals.net/veterans.htm

 

[CPFF]

Dual Filter Info.

There are some pictures and infomation on a web site I'm having built (not finished yet) that shows the parts I make.



www.jasonh.net/john

CPFF

 

[fulltime]

CPFF's set up is SUPER nice, High quality and never a problem and an easy no hassel install. Also, My Son used his Battery Box and mounted a Single By-pass filter.

 

[JCyrbok]

Battery box mount question

CPFF will your mount work with Optima group 34 batteries. They are shorter in height and length but are the same depth ( engine side to fender side) as the stock. We've been talking on e mail and I am going to go with your adapter and lines and would like to go with your battery mount too, but worry that it might not fit.



Anyone running Optimas with CPFF battery box?



J-

 

[C Schomer]

I've got the Oilguard mounted on the front crossmember under the radiator. Soot stays at . 1% sample after sample. Oilguard says the element will go around 25k miles - I believe it. Extended changes with syn oil, bypass filter and periodic analysis costs no more than changing every 3k with petro oil. Craig

 

[Extreme1]

My results, your may differ...

I have had a single Amsoil bypass filter installed for about 4 years and around 80,000 miles. I have not changed the oil or the bypass filter yet. I can monitor the bypass flow because I installed the return in the filler tube. To check, I open the cap and look.



My last analysis shows <1. 0% soot, TBN of 12. 8. The silicone was up to 15 ppm (average before was between 6 and 7) but I atributted this to some sealer that was exposed to the oil on a repair I'd done (DON"T use sealer on the timing cover!!!!)



I mounted my filter to the back of the front crossmember (under the radiator) in a horizontal position so it is protected against debris. I laid out everything and used string to determine the hose lenghts I needed. I had a local hydraulic shop make up the steel braided hoses (use swivel fittings on both ends to make it easier). Then I covered the hoses with split loom (the stuff that is on wiring harnesses) to keep it from chaffing everything it touches.



I bought the filter base and return line fittings (where it goes into the filler neck) from Amsoil.



I started out using Amsoil 5w-30, then began varying make up oil between the 5w-30 and 15w-40 depending on temperture. I initially had a pretty good front seal leak which required a lot of make up oil. Just before I repaired it, I had to add a quart about every 2,000 miles. Sometimes more, sometimes less, depending on trip length.



At this point, I'm hundreds of dollars ahead of frequent oil changes, not to mention the time and disposal issues. Initially, I thought I would be behind $$-wise in the long run, especially with the leak, but that isn't the case.



I do change the full flow filter every 12,000 miles or so and now that I only add a quart of oil every 4,000 miles, I'll have to do more frequent oil analysis. The bypass flow is begining to slow down so it's time for a change there too.



Sorry for the book, but that's my story...

 

[CPFF]

Battery Mount

JC

My battery bracket will work with the Optima's.

My bracket goes around the original battery box, so any battery that fits in the orig. box will work with my bracket.



John

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Here's what I made up and installed today for my Frantz - might be adaptable for some others - will have to wait and see how it works out, it appears to still provide enough room for changing the stock oil filter from topside...









Below is the bracket I fabricated to allow mounting to the battery hold-down bolt - I used a piece of the 3/8 SS tubing I cut outta my fuel line when I added my Carter pusher pump for the battery bolt to pass thru... I *never* throw ANYTHING away!



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Backside, showing rubber strips to stabilize and isolate mount from battery case...



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Bracket installed to battery...





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All hooked up...



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Not TOO shabby for an old fart, I guess...



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[amsoilman]

Gary,

I have a couple of questions. How do you remove the oil fill cap without twisting the hose? Is appears the return line from the by-pass goes over the turbo housing. Is this correct?



Wayne

amsoilman

 

[redram]

Oilguard (large two quart version) mounted on inside driver's frame rail next to NV 4500.



25K oil changes (although could go longer). Still change standard full flow at 5K to 8K.



Picked up pressurized oil by teeing in at the oil sending unit and return oil flow to industrial valve cover (has additional oil fill cap).



Used 3/8 hydraulic hose and barbed fittings. Recommended that if you go this route to use the swivel type so they as more easily serviced (removable).



Oil analysis looks great.