2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Cant decide between 24V and 12V

[Niro]

Ok guys i know this is posted a billion times but Im actually inquiring about something else



Ive been on this board for awhile now, diregard my post count or joining time. Ive read many hours worth of information on this site



Now Im gonna be purchasing a truck sometime soon



My mind is between a



1998 24 V or a 96-98 12v



I picked those years on the 12v cause of the better pump, also Im not sure but I was told shortbed was available in every year but I have never seen a shortbed older then a 98?



Anyways both trucks are going to be shortbed, 4X4, extended or quad cab (doesnt matter) and stick shift



Also they are gonna have a 5-6inch lift in the future and tires and wheels to boot.



They will also both have an intake and exhaust and exhaust brake

Both trucks will have whatever manual trans rebuilt with the US gear items and a upgrade shaft, along with a stronger clutch as the only other similiarities





Now with all that said and done what am I looking for?



Well I realize that both trucks have ups and downs like the KDP on the 12V and the VP44 on the 24V both of those will be addressed as well.



The truck is gonna be my everyday driver as I love pick ups.



Neither truck will be towing anything at anytime. . except whatever amount of friends I have and maybe stuff in the bed.









Now with all this the same, what truck can be made to go faster? The limit I am giving is that I will not be going into the engine like a cam or anything. . valve springs would be as far as I will go



other then that bolt ons and maybe a swapped out turbo (no twins, propane nitrous etc. . )



It seems that the stuff for the 12V is way cheaper, but the 24V goes faster?

I know this is a stupid statement but the reason I ask is this, my friend has a 2001 Long bed,ext cab 4wd auto, liftd 5 inches with 35 inch tires, he has the following mods, supermental injectors, TST PowerMax Comp Box, Vanackeen Fuel Box

his truck has ran a 13. 5@97



Now I realize Im at a loss cause Im going for the manual

Im def not looking for a rocket ship or to go rediculous fast, but how far can bolt on modifications bring u.

Keep in mind Im not gonna be racing a ton with this, just stuff from stop lights to get ricers and other diesel pick ups and stuff, and maybe the occasional trip to Etown



thank you very much and Im really sorry I didnt realize how much I typed...

 

[BTighe]

i believe the earlyer 24v engine also have KDP issues. a 98QC 12v would be the best of both worlds. the 12v is cheaper to bomb and i have heard numerous times that it can be pushed harder than the 24v. the older truck would cost less to. if you have cash you could take that saved money and buy a camplate and gsk. then your sitting better than that 24v you paid more for. also that was the first year for the electronic injection where as the 12v mechanical has had time to be refined. the only benifit i can see from a 24v is that you can turn the box off and dont need to change valve springs for an e-brake. petal control would do the same. ever check the price on a vp44. do you really want to replace that. good luck with your decision. i hope i have helped. you should be very pleased either way, it just depends on what you want to spend and what important to you.



did i mention i love my 12v

 

[ata]

Well you shot your self in the foot for a 12 valve. You can't get a 12 valve with a short bed. The 98. 5 was the first year to get a quad cab short bed and they are all 24 valve from there up. So I guess that will make-up your mind on which one you will get.

 

[BTighe]

trust me, you are not losing out by going with the 5spd.



i like having a long one anyways. the ladies will thank you. :-laf

 

[Niro]

Well you shot your self in the foot for a 12 valve. You can't get a 12 valve with a short bed. The 98. 5 was the first year to get a quad cab short bed and they are all 24 valve from there up. So I guess that will make-up your mind on which one you will get.

Well not to sound like a dick or anything like that but if u look in the classifieds there are 3 trucks that are 98 12v and shortbed...

I mean maybe they are mistakes I dunno but I will post the links for you



here is one



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...splay_db_button=on&db_id=9593&query=retrieval





I was just wondering if the shortbed was available earlier then 98 as I was told by numerous companies lol



thank you though either way I know you were trying to help I just wasnt sure about the short beds available in any previous year before 98. . I dont really care about the quad cab, its nice but my friends arent retired and they can get in through pushing the back seat down lol



looks like I will be lookin for a shortbed 12v, stick, 4WD, ext/quad cab

 

[ata]

Well you got me on that one. So I will change that to I know that in 97 the Club Cab short box was not available with the Diesel because I wanted to order one and they where not available. So you can get a 98 12 valve if you want.

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

I REALLY liked the simplicity and power band of my 12v. However, I thought the five speed was one of the worst gear ratios in any truck I've driven (well, maybe the 62 Willys Wagon 4 speed that I put 7. 50x16s on was worse - until I put a Warn overdive in). If you get the 12v I'd plan on doing a NV5600 conversion.

 

[clawson]

Well you shot your self in the foot for a 12 valve. You can't get a 12 valve with a short bed. The 98. 5 was the first year to get a quad cab short bed and they are all 24 valve from there up. So I guess that will make-up your mind on which one you will get.

98 was the first year to get a short bed. I have a 98 12vext. cab short bed

 

[fox]

I have owned both. Right now I am dealing with a bad VP-44.

Get a 12 valve and not worry about it dieing on the road!!

Check or do the KDP, and By all means put a gov spring kit in it.

 

[Hammer]

Well you shot your self in the foot for a 12 valve. You can't get a 12 valve with a short bed

ata...

They were available in a shortbed and quadcab in 1998 from the beginning either stick or automatic. Very tough to find a clean one but they're out there.



KDP issues are found among all the motors all the way up to late 2000 as are the dreaded 53 blocks. Neither are big issues if proper maintence is performed and some precautions taken. Obviously I realize with the 53 blocks not much can be done to stop the panrail from cracking and leaking,but,if your aware of it and keep a watchfull eye on it you may be able to have them eat it under your waranty. KDP's are almost a moot point anymore due largely in part of updated cases and the memberships passing around the KDP jigs to repair them. Its a small fix that has saved alot of owners from having the problems some of the rest of us had before we became members here.



Now on to Niro...

The easiest way to sum up a answer to your question is this and its the way I have answered it many time before. Do you desire the ability to turn off the power in inclement weather which with a 24v you can do or can you deal with the never turned off power of a 12v and deal with driving with your foot. Thats the most logical way to sum it up. Both motors have their good and bad points,its what precautions you take to make your owning one alot easier. I have seen good power made with both powerplants and seen some automatics that flat out fly. Its what demon you decide to deal with for power transfer to the ground. Mine is a stick and when I bought it the diesel automatic transmission performace parts were scarce. Now that is not a problem and if it was me today buying one for a daily driver I'd buy a automatic. I can row a mean stick,but Ronnie sox I am not,so anyway to help snooker those ricers would be a advantage to me,automatics would help that,LOL.



I am not big into lifts and most all the bigger companies make a lift for them. Some are better than others just do a little searching here and you'll see some honest opinions on what they like or dislike about most all of them available to us. As for the intakes,save the cash for one of them and spend it where you'll put better use of it for power. I have seen no advantage of a aftermarket engine intake on a Cummins. Lofty claims have been made on them but many here havent seen much of a gain for the money spent other than their looks. Aftermarket airboxes help greatly,again,research and you'll find alot of info on them here as what guys like and don't.



Bottom line,do alot of research,form your own opinion based on what you have learned and make your decision wisely. Those who have the patience to wait for what they want,instead of buying on a whim,may bring them the truck they desire. Hope this helps some and good luck truck hunting.

Well not to sound like a dick or anything like that but if u look in the classifieds there are 3 trucks that are 98 12v and shortbed...

BTW. .

Comments like this will scare away alot of possible posters and quite possibly alot of the very info you want to help you form your own opinion... ... ... ... . Andy

 

[pwerwagn]

Well you shot your self in the foot for a 12 valve. You can't get a 12 valve with a short bed. The 98. 5 was the first year to get a quad cab short bed and they are all 24 valve from there up. So I guess that will make-up your mind on which one you will get.

I know this has already kinda been answered, but I will maybe elaborate.

1998 was the first year for the quad cab, the first year for the shortbed, and the first year for the new dash. The club cab was an option if you didnt want quad. It was also an option in 99, and I have seen one 00 without the quad cab.

The 12V's last year was 1998. so you have one half of a year to search for a 12V, shortbed, quadcab. the 12V motor was the same from 96-98 (180 pumped autos and 215 pumped 5-speeds).

The NV4500 is not that bad of a trans if you do the gov spring. I dont ever notice the 3-4 gap anymore and I pull 16K lbs with mine.



Personally, I feel the 12v is more reliable. If you fix the KDP, the 5th gear nut if you get a 5-speed, and do a plate/GSK, you will be extremely happy and will have a reliable truck. If you dont want a quad cab, and dont care about a shortbed or the new dash, look for a 96 or 97. they will be much cheaper than a 98.



--Jeff

 

[0013]

if i could do it over again--id go 12v. although my 24v is a good running rig w/ 143K on it (im very happy with it) and only one lift pump failure--it sounds to me that its a crap shoot on getting a "good" 24v (guess i lucked out). many have 53 block cracks (i dont think the 12v have that problem do they?), vp44 failures, LP failures, front end probs, brake probs, etc, etc. I know the 12v have their probs too--but it seems to me the 24v has more. i also think 12v are easier to build up HP/TQ wise. this is just my opinion. wish you luck on your purchase--do some research and make a good choice to suit YOU.

chris

 

[DEZLPWR]

I sold my '99 ETC Quad cab 4x4 longbed and found a mint '98 12v quad cab 2wd auto longbed, previously owned by TDR member tschwab. I LOVE my 12v and my 18+ mpg, and have never regretted it... . Oo. Oo. I am very happy, even though I settled on a 2wd with LSD.

 

[pwerwagn]

many have 53 block cracks (i dont think the 12v have that problem do they?)

Yup, they do. but other than that, the KDP, and exhaust manifolds shrinking are all that is left I believe. oh, and the fact that you have to add ex springs if you want an ex brake. those are the only cons I can think of.

 

[CATCRACKER]

no 53 blocks in 24 valves. vp44 are cheap a hot rod vp 44 is only 1500 and with a good pusher pump the vp will last on the other hand a 98 12 v with the 215 pump is cant be beat !!!! fix the kdp and you are in bussiness



i would go with a 98 12v long bed or dually

 

[Oil Burner]

I believe there were plenty of 53 blocks in 24 valves... up to and including 2001 trucks.



I'd go with the 12 valve if you are staying around '98



Jason

 

[pwerwagn]

Yes, there were 53 blocks in 24V's. Plenty of them, too.

 

[CATCRACKER]

i should proof read a little better i not only know there where 53 blocks in 24v i owned one a 99... . sorry i was not more clear..... so for the record dont buy the 53 block and 24v have the 53. it is rare for them to crack it drove me nuts knowing i had a 53 a main reason i got ride of the truck.

 

[Reddog1]

Seens like you guys forgot the headgasket on the 12V. As I recall, It is a common problem from the factory due to a poorly designed gastet. The fix being a marine headgasket. About 10 hours labor plus $100 parts, without head machining. Ask me how I know.



Leak from the water jacket to outside by the number one cylinder on the passenger side.





Wayne

 

[C. Harlan]

12 valve. You can't get a 12 valve with a short bed

Jim Fulmer has a 1998. 4 12 Valve, Quad Cab Shortbed, 53 BLOCK, and still making 804 HP to the wheels!



I did the NV5600 Conversion, and wished I had done it sooner. I am still waiting on GSK's, but I only have 3 more payments, and BLACK BETTY IS ALL MINE!!!!



My block only has a "6" stamped on it, so I guess I am good.



12 Valve gets my vote, even though I will have to buy an ISB sometime in the near future, then save up and P-Pump it for reliability!



-Chris-