Can't find cure for death wobble

[brods]

The rational for removing the spacers is because its free and will help to track down the causes of the DW. If he removes the spacers and the DW is still there, then the spacers are probably not one of the primary causes and he can put them back in. If the DW goes away, then it helps to narrow it down to the spacers or the change in the suspension geometry due to the added ride height as primary causes for the DW (of course that is assuming all the rest of the suspension is in good condition).



Has anyone with spacers and DW ditched the spacers for longer springs, while changing nothing else, and then had the DW go away?

 

[Kry226]

Yo Hoot did. I believe he had the poly-puck type and BFG 315s, but I also believe he installed the drop blocks, bringing the sway bar back in check also. Maybe he'll chime in.

 

[betterthanstock]

Spring spacers will not make a difference. The spring is flexible, and it can only support the suspension vertically, not horizontally. Now, a different spring rate may mask the problem.

It's the suspension height that matters.

The stock track bar and steering linkage are already at steep angles from horizontal, at factory height. The same goes with the 4 links that hold the axle. Lifts will make those angle even more steep, so whenever it goes over a bump, it also goes side to side from the track bar and the steering link. The 4 links make it go fore and aft. So you need to lower all attachment points (steering box, track bar, and 4 bar link mounting points) back to the same distance above axle center as OEM.



Then there is the contact patch of the tire, in relation to the kingpin axis (also known as scrub radius). With larger tire diameter, you neeed to keep the same distance from the kingpin axis to the tire center as OEM.



Third, the tires act like springs, and they bounce like a basketball over bumps. The axle is heavy, a lot more on the driver's side due to offset differential. When the tires start jumping, they interact with the springs and shock absorbers. You don't want the vertical bouncing of the axle to give you side to side steering movement, so that is why it's important to keep the geometry accurate.

I have not really studied the Dodge geometry, but it is different than the classic cars/trucks of the 60's.

When you steer, our wheels lean correctly, like motorcycle tires. I believe MercedsBenz was the first to introduce this geometry in the seventies. The older suspensions leaned the wrong way, so the ouside tire would be riding on the sidewall, and howling. That has something to do with kingpin axis inclination (camber/caster). The newer design may be more prone to DW.

 

[Baja_Mike]

I installed the dual stabilizer and have drove pretty hard on some of the spots that gave me problems and so far it hasn't done it. knock on wood. I have also noticed 3 of my lug studs have broke two on front and one on the back. I use a torque wrench to 130 ft-lbs and put antiseize on them. Tire guy is trying to tell me Nitto is the same as the Toyo's??

Did you take the clips off the studs before you installed the aftermarket wheels? If you didn't that is probably the reason why your studs broke. The factory wheels have a relief for the clips (factory uses these to hold the rotors in place as the truck rolls down the assembly line). And yes the Nitto and Toyo's are of the same company but they manufacture different tires so, no they are not the same. If you wind up still having more problems with that dual steering stabilizer let us know we are just about done with a dual setup that utilizes dual IFP stabilizer shocks that work way better than traditional dual stabilizer setups that utilize emulsion shocks. We have been successful getting rid of DW on trucks running BFG's.

 

[RollOver_Pete]

I've been fighting DW for over 60,000 miles.

I first had DW with a 100% stock truck.

While I've been able to reduce the DW incidents with different tires, shocks, tie rod ends, ball joints and track bar, I've still got DW.



So, I've more or less learned to live with it for now.

I white knuckle the steering wheel and hold my breath every time I hit the slightest little bump in the road.

my 06 has right at 84000 miles on the odo... .

So I hold my breath allot.



I have my own ideas on this whole DW thing.

Maybe I dont think as most normal folks around here.

I have yet to hear anybody talk about the chance that maybe DW just might have something to do with tie rod/steering arm flexing.

Ya know... the thing that makes both front tires turn left or right at the same time.

I'll ask any of you to go outside, get on your back and grab the piece that I'm talking about.

It's right in front of the front diff housing.

Now pull as if you are trying to slide under your truck.

Does or did your long tie rod flex..... even a little bit?

Mine does.

The old one did and the new one does.

A solid shaft will always flex more than the same sized hollow tube.



Now if you have enough energy, move your truck so the right front tire is up against a curb or something.

The idea is to not let the right tire turn to the left or right.

Now, with the engine still running, parking break set

climb back under the front of your truck and grab the steering shaft where it enters the steering box.

Give it a small twist and look at what the tie rods/ steering arms/ drag links do.

Unless mine are made out of rubber or something, mine flex... . allot.

I'm guessing that yours do also. . its ok to admit that they flex.

OK... . maybe yours dont flex and I'm a total moron for wasting your time.

But allot of us have wasted allot time trying to deal with DW.

I'm still convinced that we have yet to find somebody who knows 100% what they are talking about re: DW.

Other wise, none of us would still have DW.



Back to the flexing parts...

To me, there shouldnt be anything flexing up front that also controls the steering.

If I can grab the steering thing with my bare hand and make it flex, then what will a bump in the road make it do?



I know that there have been a few videos of DW, but none of them actually shows what is happening up front.

The drag links, tie rods, steering arm, knuckles are still a great mystery.

Doesnt anyone have a video of what happens to the steering components during DW?

Until someone is able to come up with a way to stick a camera up front showing what happens during DW, I guess we'll just keep on wasting time and money trying to find a cure.

We still dont know what the true problem is.

Please...

Somebody prove me wrong.....

 

[Tomeygun]

Forget borrowing tires, toss the BFG's and find a better tire. Those tires are the root of all evil and the devil incarnate with death wobble!



Have you done a lift? Springs or ???? Trackbar? Even your rims are suspect if they are not back spaced correctly.

see Kev? what did I tell you. take those tires off and BURN THEM! I bet 1 day with my toyos and you will be death wobble free

 

[Tomeygun]

also lets see that steering stabilizer, good looks?