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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) caTCHER ecm (Marco's aka MAD)

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) So how much blowby is normal?

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Hurricane Rita

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RCone,



MassDiesel is 6 hours away. I was trying to find so,ething less than 4 to install my transmission. I would prefer going with the ATS brand (no wars please!).



I will be gentle with her until I can find a place and get an appointment made.



Thanks



Phil
 
Smart choice Phil, be gentle with her. No brand wars here. ATS makes a great TC, but don't forget the VB. You will need more line pressure one way or another or a Transgo type shift kit.
 
PRyker said:
I would be interested to hear of the experience of other users as if this is how is started for them? How long will I be able to go with this darn slushbox? I guess I better start planning on where I am going to get this done at.





Thoughts?



Phil



I can give you some advice on transmission longevity. Before finding TDR I added an EZ, DDII's and HX35 turbo. My transmission went south after 2 weeks. :{ I pulled the mods and installed 275 injectors, changed fluid and adjusted bands. I now have over 83K miles on my truck and 40K on my bad transmission. Yes it slips, T/C does studder on hot days towing, but I have 3K+ in my pocket for over 2 years. It's not fun, you can't hot rod, but you can get by. Oh, I have contacted Doug (7/6/04) about Marcos ECM and I will do the trans before the ECM. Don't run it without band adjustment and fluid change for long, it will kill your transmission. Good luck, Mike. ;)
 
Thanks for all of the advice guys... I do not want to hijack this thread but since there seems to be a lul in the activity let me ask this:



I was told I should replace the whole transmission when I do the upgrade (Trans, TC, VB). Can I get by with just the TC and VB? What are the downsides to doing this?



My trans was a bit weak before the swap over to the MAD ECM. It has taken me 2 days to hurt the transmission. I did think it would last longer but knew I would need a new trans and want to do it the right way. I have been saving and I am ready to take the plunge but do not want to spend money that I do not have to.



Thanks



Phil
 
PRyker said:
I was told I should replace the whole transmission when I do the upgrade (Trans, TC, VB). Can I get by with just the TC and VB? What are the downsides to doing this?



Yes, Phil, if you can afford it do the whole transmission. I know, I was the one that said if you are on a strict budget at least do the TC & VB. From personal experience in my 96' if the TC starts to go, it will take the transmission out because of all of the sluffing of material from the TC getting into the transmission. Doing it right the 1st time will save money but you are looking at around $3400 I suspect to do it right. Just consider the power level you are at now and where you think you might wind up at because I can guarantee you one thing, if you have gone this far you ain't done yet. You'll be wanting some EDM's next, then you'll need more air. See how this goes?
 
The slippery slope!

RCone said:
I can guarantee you one thing, if you have gone this far you ain't done yet. You'll be wanting some EDM's next, then you'll need more air. See how this goes?



an't it the truth... ... ... . From my own experience I can hartily recommend 1. 5's. I find the power



:--) awesome but with my stock HX35 I have haven't seen egt greater than 1,100* I see that just momentarily while climbing steep grades. The combination leaves me grinning ever time I drive. :D
 
PRyker

There are many internal up-grades that you miss out on if you just do t/q and v/b. Not to mention the clutch and hard parts that will be worn and needing attension. Save your money and do it right the first time.



Bob
 
I have one thought for you Phil. But it may not work as I just read you need to find a transmission shop...



IF, you are a friend could help you,... . IF you can pull the transmission yourself and change the T/C and VB... order the ones for the brand transmission you want to upgrade to.



Then when you have saved some more money, buy the complete transmission built minus the valve body. Just a thought.....



but if I had the cash available, I would prefer to do the whole enchilada at one time.
 
Akamac,



Ahhh... You mean call ATS. I did. They said they have a few shops in PA but when I called the shops they were not diesel shops. Just auto shops and they said "Oh, yeah... ATS. We did one about 6 months ago". I was looking for someone who was a bit more familiar with the installs.



Well, I have done it! Taken us off topic. If anyone can provide me with a good shop in MD or PA for the ATS transmission install PM me. Now lets get back to the torque coverter killer a. k. a MAD Ecm



Thanks



Phil
 
Ok I guess this would be for Marco, let's just say I have aquired a brand new Mopar Torques Maximus ECM for a 2000 year truck. Question 1, would this ECM work as is on an early 2001 truck with drum brakes? Is the programming the same 2000/2001(early)? Second question, have you done a program on one of these ECM's? Is there any difference between it and a regular ECM as far as the work you do to them? Thanks, if anyone else has any answers please chime in.
 
Too Much Torque?

PRyker said:
Akamac,



. Now lets get back to the torque coverter killer a. k. a MAD Ecm



Thanks



Phil



Phil, you might recall that that the name CaTCHER is sort of an acronym for clutch & torque challenger. Marco wan't fooling when he told us that. Perhaps the name should be ammended to read Clutch & Torque Converter Challenger.



Hopefully you will find the right shop soon.
 
No offense, but actually it stands for "clutch and traction challenger. " But, you ain't gonna have a problem with traction if you don't have the clutch and slush box to get the new-found torque to the ground.
 
darkhorse said:
Phil, you might recall that that the name CaTCHER is sort of an acronym for clutch & torque challenger. Marco wan't fooling when he told us that. Perhaps the name should be ammended to read Clutch & Torque Converter Challenger.



Hopefully you will find the right shop soon.



Actually... ... . its Clutch and Traction..... not torque :)
 
Oops

:eek: pardon my blooper. Traction is certainly an issue. It's pretty easy to bust the rear wheels lose on the crushed rock roads I drive. :D
 
Turbo Tim 1 said:
Ok I guess this would be for Marco, let's just say I have aquired a brand new Mopar Torques Maximus ECM for a 2000 year truck. Question 1, would this ECM work as is on an early 2001 truck with drum brakes? Is the programming the same 2000/2001(early)? Second question, have you done a program on one of these ECM's? Is there any difference between it and a regular ECM as far as the work you do to them? Thanks, if anyone else has any answers please chime in.



Yes it will work, you just need to supply your trucks specific's and yes there are 2 programs for the 01 truck (drum brakes vs. rear disc) and auto vs. stick



The torqus maximus ecm was programmed for added performance.
 
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