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Cerametallic clutch

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SPDiesel Transmission Controller

Still waiting on the banks exhaust brake release

clutch

I will be adding to this discussion soon... I'm still trying to decide which way to go with this.



more to come



melbo
 
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Fast turn-around

Well the clutch arrived less than 24hrs after I ordered it. Hope the install goes smoothly. 1st scare is the transmission jack that I picked up from the rental outlet is monsterous. Told them it was for CTD w/ 6speed -4WD and out came the monster. 2nd is, if the install takes too long, I might not be able to make rolling thunder and I just cleaned up the bike. That would be a bummer. I have printed out the excellent instructions in the post and will give it a whirl. Let you know my opinion of the LUK after a few hundred miles. :D
 
One little hint/suggestion as to breakin of that new clutch - we have heard of a significant number of these installs experiencing grabbing and chatter shortly after install - it is my personal feeling that the nature of the metallic clutch material, and the somewhat rough finish of the newly resurfaced flywheel and new pressure plate creates the possibility of scuffing of the clutch itself and the PP and flywheel surface if a reasonably few miles are not accrued BEFORE aggressive use of the clutch. That can create rough spots randomly on surfaces, and MIGHT contribute to grabbing and chatter.



Take some easy miles, and allow mating surfaces to seat in a bit and burnish - I think you'll stand a far better chance of a trouble-free clutch life...



I also noticed what appeared to be a light film of oily substance on the surface of the pressure plate - I made DERN sure that was thoroughy removed prior to installing it - probably there to protect against rust - but a definite hazard to good clutch operation...
 
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Gary - KJ6Q

Thanks for the comments. When I talked to LUK & Carolina Clutch(in reference to all the derogatory comments in this post) they informed me to allow at least 100 miles to let the surfaces mate and wear in together.

John:cool:
 
I BELIEVE PETER 100% WITH REGARDS TO WHAT HE SAYS HAPPENED WITH LUK AND I DO NOT DOUBT WHAT HE HAS SAID IN REGARDS TO THE DIFFERENCE IN MATERIALS. I FEEL CERTAIN THE THINGS HE DESCRIBES DO HAPPEN IN THE INDUSTRY AND HAVE NO DOUBT THAT SBC PRODUCT MAY BE AND IS A BETTER CLUTCH. BUT HOW MUCH BETTER IS IT TO JUSTIFY THE EXTRA MONEY. THAT IS THE QUESTION. MY ADVICE FOR SBC IS TO BUILD THE SAME CLUTCH AS LUK AND SELL IT FOR ABOUT THE SAME PRICE AND GIVE YOUR CUSTOMERS THE CHOICE OF PRODUCTS AND STILL BE ABLE TO STAY WITH YOU. THEN YOU WILL HAVE A GOOD PRODUCT AT A FAIR PRICE AND A EVEN BETTER PRODUCT FOR THE BUYERS WHERE PRICE IS NOT A OPTION.
 
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I don't think Peter could sell the same clutch as LUK, and be as good of a company as he is.



Peter knows the clutch's we need better than anybody else out there.



It's unheard of to put 1,000 Ft/Lbs of torque through a clutch at only 2,500RPM.



I think the ceramettalic will work for you Gary, but I don't know of any clutch that can hold up to me. Even a Dual Disc was put to work with my foot on the pedals...



Merrick
 
"Peter knows the clutch's we need better than anybody else out there. "



HMMmmm - really? I wonder if that should be taken to heart and we should all bow in the direction of SBC?



I freely acknowledge Peter's integrity, experience and knowledge - but I ALSO *seriously* doubt that even Peter would claim to be "all-knowing" where clutches are concerned, or that he alone "sits on the throne" of clutch expertise!



Believe it or not, there ARE a few others out there who ALSO are very knowledgeable and experienced where clutches are concerned! All knowledge as to clutches does NOT begin and end with Peter!



I think a diverstity of clutch designs and characteristics as well as variations in price are good things for consumers - and I absolutely DETEST product slamming and mud-slinging between various factions that think THEIR choice is the ONLY logical one...



We have "oil wars", "Automatic transmission wars" - as well as other variations - fact is, ALL the oils are pretty dern good, as are the several AT upgrades available - and it seems pretty likely the same is true af the several clutch options we have available as well.



I run into this sort of cult hype on a broad front of issues, it's nothing new - and all have the same group who will frantically support their favorite and knock and ridicule all others regardless.



I constantly and sincerely state I support SBC, Peter and his product - the Cerametallic from LUK is relatively new, somewhat untried, and fits into a sector of users and a price class that fits some of us better than currently available competitors - why can't the SBC faithful simply accept that fact, support our decision, wish us well with our choice, and leave it at that?
 
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Gary-KJ6Q, I'll look forward to seeing how your clutch works out for you.



I think that choice and taste are what keep us all unique. One product, no matter what it is will ever work for everyone. After all, were not in a clutch dictatorship.



When I replace mine I will be looking for real world experiences on both (all) sides of the fence and make my decision accordingly.



That said, I think it is worth the extra $400 dollars if it does what it is expected to and does not cause premature wear on associated components regardless if it is a clutch, women, dog, or anything else for that mater.
 
Brian, I have not the SLIGHTEST doubt that the use of the Cerametallic material WILL in fact, cause some additional flywheel wear as compared to conventional materials - but I *also* feel that concern is vastly overblown!



Fact is, installation of aftermarket clutches usually involves the recommendation or outright REQUIREMENT of grinding or otherwise resurfacing the flywheel - what difference does that requirement make if there is slight wear, or moderate wear? The cost and added effort is EXACTLY the same either way!



Very little difference between resurfacing for 10 thousands wear and 15 thousands - time money and effort are the same - and it's a pretty safe bet that ANY of the serious-class aftermarket clutches are likely to cause wear that is above what stock clutches will exert, so NONE of them are likely to give you a free pass...



As far as *I* am concerned, it's a non-issue! ;)
 
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about 120 miles on LUK, Trying to find the cause of my "CHATTER"

Flywheel had been resurfaced flawlessly... this is an "after" shot

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see some uneven wear...

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right side

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pressure plate looks a little scored for 120 miles

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I'm being told that some '01 6 speed flywheels came out of DC factory with the flywheel bolt holes improperly bored, thus causing improper disk/flywheel engagement...



I'm off to the Bahamas for 13 days and will know more when I get back. I will be adding some more details after I get back and drive my truck, (I've told both Tom and Peter they could drive it in my absense... maybe carpool... talk clutches... pick up Gary



melbo
 
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Melbo:



For 140,000 miles my 91 launch chattered in 2nd gear for about the first 20 miles or so, I had assumed that the disk was absorbing moisture and had to heat up-dry out. The rear u-joint cross went out and I replaced both crosses with the best I could find, no more launch chatter in 2nd gear. The factory u-joint was sticky all that time.



Tom
 
Originally posted by MCummings





It's unheard of to put 1,000 Ft/Lbs of torque through a clutch at only 2,500RPM.







Merrick [/B]





???? There are 100's of thousands of them in operation every day at even lower rpm and HIGHER torque



William... ...
 
Nice pics Melbo - pretty obvious the clutch pads had not yet seated in. It's also obvious you have had more than your fair share of problems, hope you get it all sorted out, and it will be interesting to see if the basic cause of your problem is found and corrected. It's a cinch these types of clutches are firmer and more positive in engagement - and more sensitive to any driveline play or looseness that allows flexing. I've really disliked the use of the rubber-bushed center support bearings DC and others use in the driveline, it tends to act like a rubber band and create some of the issues you have, even with a stock clutch. On my '91, I had a US Gear overdrive installed, and that eliminated the center support setup - and made a BIG difference in the stability of the driveline.



Good luck, and have a nice trip.
 
It's unheard of to put 1,000 Ft/Lbs of torque through a clutch at only 2,500RPM. ?

O-Yeah baby!:D:cool:
 
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UPDATE

Got my clutch in yesterday. Boy that 6 speed is a heavy transmision. Glad that sticks posted about the bottle jack and 4x4 for spreading the frame. Getting the crossmember out was a bear compared to the rest. On reassembly lining the transmission shaft was the hardest part. Really spread the frame for reinstalling the cross member. Actually the hardest part of the reassembly was reinserting the six speed medallion in the shift knob. Thought that SOB was never going to go back. Have driven about 30 miles since the install and it sems to be doing fine. Too soon for the jury to arrive at a vedict. All in all it wasn't too bad for a sixty year old to do. Found the fingers on the original pressure plate really worn and the the throw-out was shot. It just good to be back on the road blowing smoke.

:D
 
"Actually the hardest part of the reassembly was reinserting the six speed medallion in the shift knob. "



HMMMmmm - why in the world did you take it out in the first place? :confused:



Again, as a suggestion, give the new clutch as many miles as you can stand with fairly easy use to allow gentle settling in and burnishing of mating surfaces - I really think that might be a key in proper breakin and proper operation for these type clutches...



For you guys who went ahead with the flywheel turning bit, typically how much material do they remove? I know ya gotta take as much as needed for a proper surface, but what have you seen with your resurfacing? I haven't seen any posted limits as to what the maximum removal is, or minimum flywheel thickness - anyone know for sure? :confused:
 
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shift knob

I screwed the knob off to remove my custom wiring for the pac brake and of course the lock nut is inside the knob. Next time (which I hope doesn't happen too soon) I'll cut the wires and resplice.

John
 
Might consider some of the wiring plugs as used for trailer wiring and such - of course, removing the shift lever will HOPEFULLY not be a regular thing...



Did you have your flywheel resurfaced?
 
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