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CFM Intake Question

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Trans going to neutral on 3/4 shift

8 codes and rough running. Armchair diagnosis required!

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I installed mine last night. The instructions say to remove the heater grid:confused:. Why would I do that if I already have the stock intake OFF?
 
Not sure what the big deal is? Just lift it up and slide the new gasket in. It isn't like it is any extra work.
 
You loosened the nuts that hold it on... it needs new gaskets... and your have to put the studs in...

directions are there to be followed...
 
to install the studs.
??? Have you ever done this? The studs go through the HG and thread into the engine. If the HG is not removed I dont see the point, besides on my truck, the HG was still too tight to remove by hand without prying it off and possibly getting something down the intake. So once again, why remove the HG?
 
??? Have you ever done this? The studs go through the HG and thread into the engine. If the HG is not removed I dont see the point, besides on my truck, the HG was still too tight to remove by hand without prying it off and possibly getting something down the intake. So once again, why remove the HG?



Did it on mine and installed the new gasket. hint, hint
 
I guess you could do what I did and not worry about it. When I put my AFE on I did not replace the heater grid gaskets and best I can tell I do not have any leaks.
 
I guess you could do what I did and not worry about it. When I put my AFE on I did not replace the heater grid gaskets and best I can tell I do not have any leaks.
on my truck, there was NO gasket on the top of the HG, just some silver stuff that looked like antisieze. I cleaned that off and put the aluminum reinforced gasket on top (between the intake and the CFM).



The truck runs great and I guess I'll never know why they have that extra step. :rolleyes:
 
The metal on that gasket is the ground strap for the heater grid.

guess you will find out when you need the grid heater
 
The metal on that gasket is the ground strap for the heater grid.

guess you will find out when you need the grid heater
theres NO metal on the gasket under the HG:p The metal reinforced gasket goes on the top side.
 
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Sounds like you made up your mind, and its your truck... but they do it for a reason...
the whole purpose of this thread was to know what the the reason is for removing the HG :confused: no one has answered the question and I dont really care anymore anyway.
 
The grids are grounded with a wire, not through the gasket. I don't see any reason it should have to be removed. And honestly, unless it get's terribly cold where you live you probably don't need them.
 
the whole purpose of this thread was to know what the the reason is for removing the HG :confused: no one has answered the question and I dont really care anymore anyway.



You have been told several times, because your breaking the pressure on the gasket you need to put a new one in... Which I would want when the intake pressure exceeds 30, more if your boost fooling.
 
You have been told several times, because your breaking the pressure on the gasket you need to put a new one in... Which I would want when the intake pressure exceeds 30, more if your boost fooling.
OK Thanks. IF it ever leaks I'll go back in and replace both.
 
I spoke to the owner of CFM+ and he said he didn't replace the bottom either in his. And yes the metallic gasket is for the later trucks where the ground does go through the gasket. As copter man said higher boost could be an issue.
 
The reason(s) people remove the haeter grids are:



1. to eliminate the slight air intake restriction it may cause on the engine



2. to eliminate the annoying on and off drain on the electrical system as they cycle on and off when the truck is started and it is cold outside.



If you live somewhere cold, your engine will appreciate you leaving them on.



From what I have read on TDR, you will only notice a real difference in power if your engine is already highly modified.
 
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