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Usually there is no gasket, just clean off old RTV sealant and reinstall with blue or black RTV. Let it set awhile before refilling for good measure. Cleaning surfaces with a good paint thinner and following good cleanliness measures ensures leak-free seal.
I am fixing to do a fluid change for the first time on mine early Sunday morning, before it gets too flippin' hot out.
I changed mine last week or the week before and reused the gaskets. There heavy duty plastic and were not sealed to the cover or the differential they came off easy and they were like new.
Am I to understand there's no drain plug for the diff? What all do you have to take apart? Too bad it's not set up like my atv, with a drain plug at the bottom and fill plug on the top, fill to the threads, easy. Anyone have a pic?
Its an easy change i think there were 13 or 14 bolts around the cover just crack the cover with a drain pan under and let it drain. I took the cover off and cleaned it . I jacked it up a little on each side and drained and wiped it out good. If you didnt want to take the cover all the way off you could just re tighten it after cracking it and letting it drain. I refilled with mobile 1 75w/90. the bolts were 13 mm. Same on the front
Steven, thanks so much for the reply. That doesn't sound that hard. It also sounds like there's an added benefit to being able to actually clean it out in there and clean the cover, as compared to just having a drain plug. However it seems the downside is the sealing. Does anyone have a service manual yet or are they available for these vehicles? I wonder what Dodge recommends in the case of this procedure, as far as replacing gaskets, etc... Anyone know?
There have been other posts concerning that gasket and my understanding from reading them is that they don't need to be replaced, at least on the rear differential. The posts I am referring to pertain to the installation of the Mag HyTec or just changing the lubricant. If you do a search you can probably find threads.
I replaced the gasket when I changed the differential fluid. Cost $22. 35 plus tax (PN 5086905-AA) at a local Dodge dealer, could not find it aftermarket. They did not have in stock and took a day or so to come in. As I remember the dealer said it was not reusable, due to the seals around the holes in the gasket, but apparently many have been successfully reusing the old gasket. I have always used a new gasket when changing differential fluid so did the same this time. Used Mobil 1 75w90. Easy job, good advice above. I usually hose the differential off with water if there is any mud or dirt accumulation before removing the cover.
has anyone tried to vacume oil out without removing anything but the drain plug? i have a pump that i use for lawnmower repair. i works great sucks the engines bone dry after they are hot. it really saves on the time and mess. i would think you could get the pick-up tube all the way to the bottom and it would do a good job.
The book says the gaskets are re-usable, but after wiping/washing them clean in solvent (I use kingsford lighter fluid) do you do like the oil filter gasket, and place a thin film of oil on the O-ring rubber?
OK, ended up using Redline 75W-90 for the front, and 75W-110 for the rear. Popped both covers, cleaned the reusable gasket with solvent, re-installed dry, and tightened to the proper torque (30ft-lbs)-no leaks...
FYI-- The LS on the AAM axles actually does NOT require LS fluid ... they are a torsen (helical gear) type limited slip and not like mechanical clutch packs that necessitate an LS additive.
while the AAM axel doesn't require a LS additive, it will/can benefit from it.
Yes, it doesn't have a clutch pack like the limited slip axel does but it does have a shoe/snubber..... that rides up against the gear (dont know its proper name.) that is covered in friction material.
If your rear axle is making any noise the LS additive could be a remedy.
Ive been using the Valvoline synthetic gear lube with the additive with no issues or noise, and the fluid looks good after 35k. i'm now at 108,000mi
The book (the one in the glove box) says, "no additive needed", so not to get too belligerent, or over-think that simple instruction, I decided to follow it and assign face value to it. Drove the truck down to Tucson after the change (a 425 mile round trip) and no noise other than normal was observed.