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Changing OEM Fuel Filter

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My Engine Died

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:eek: Being new to this truck. I am changing the fule filter tonight. I do not have a maintenance manual. Is there anything special that I need to know or do.



Thanks for your help.
 
Nope... . nuthin special. Although, when you unscrew the cap, and remove the filter, I would drain all the fuel out of the canister... because when you put the new filter in, some unfiltered fuel will enter the system if it's not drained.
 
curatchko said:
Nope... . nuthin special. Although, when you unscrew the cap, and remove the filter, I would drain all the fuel out of the canister... because when you put the new filter in, some unfiltered fuel will enter the system if it's not drained.



I have been putting this supposedly easy task off as long as I can. I thought, huh, I can do it. Then I popped the hood, and saw that the fuel filter cap is made of plastic. Plastic engine parts scare the hell out of me. Anybody know the torque spec for plastic?
 
About 14 ft lbs

TXHAWG:



I've been doing it for years: Just hold the ratchet in the center and snug only. 14 ft lbs is not much.



After you drain, get clean, lint free rag and clean water in fuel sensor in fuel filter canister. Close the canister drain. Place new filter in and be sure to lube new rubber ring gasket w/ diesel fuel. Place plastic fuel filter canister cover on loosely, place amd leave ratchet and socket on cover and bump (real quick) starter and leave in run position. This will fill fuel canister. As soon as you see fuel starting to come out sides, tighten top holding ratchet in the center. Fight the urge put excessive force. Wipe off the canister and start the engine. Check for leaks.



Hope this helps,



Wiredawg
 
Wiredawg said:
TXHAWG:



I've been doing it for years: Just hold the ratchet in the center and snug only. 14 ft lbs is not much.



After you drain, get clean, lint free rag and clean water in fuel sensor in fuel filter canister. Close the canister drain. Place new filter in and be sure to lube new rubber ring gasket w/ diesel fuel. Place plastic fuel filter canister cover on loosely, place amd leave ratchet and socket on cover and bump (real quick) starter and leave in run position. This will fill fuel canister. As soon as you see fuel starting to come out sides, tighten top holding ratchet in the center. Fight the urge put excessive force. Wipe off the canister and start the engine. Check for leaks.



Hope this helps,



Wiredawg

Wire Dawg

Why leave the canister open. Don't these engines self prime?????
 
Engine will eventually start, but...

I believe bleeding the fuel canister is less strain on the injection pump as you are pushing air through it. I've done this so many times I get very little fuel spilleage and the engine starts right up.



I have a 2003 factory service manual (out of town right now) but I never looked up how DC says to do it.



If you don't bleed the fuel canister, let us know how many times you have to turn over to get started.



Wiredawg
 
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FUEL SYSTEM

PRIMING

A certain amount of air becomes trapped in the

fuel system when fuel system components on the

supply and/or high-pressure side are serviced or

replaced. Fuel system priming is accomplished using

the electric fuel transfer (lift) pump.

Servicing or replacing fuel system components usually

will not require fuel system priming.

The fuel transfer (lift) pump is self-priming: When

the key is first turned on (without cranking engine),

the pump operates for approximately 2 seconds and

then shuts off. The pump will also operate for up to

25 seconds after the starter is quickly engaged, and

then disengaged without allowing the engine to start.

The pump shuts off immediately if the key is on and

the engine stops running.

(1) Turn key to CRANK position and quickly

release key to ON position before engine starts. This

will operate fuel transfer pump for approximately 25

seconds.

(2) If the engine does not start after 25 seconds,

turn key OFF. Repeat previous step until engine

starts.

(3) Fuel system priming is now completed.

(4) Attempt to start engine. If engine will not

start, proceed to following steps. When engine does

start, it may run erratically and be noisy for a

few minutes. This is a normal condition.

CAUTION: Do not engage the starter motor for more

than 30 seconds at a time. Allow two minutes

between cranking intervals.

(5) Perform previous fuel priming procedure steps

using fuel transfer pump. Be sure fuel is present at

fuel tank.

(6) Crank the engine for 30 seconds at a time to

allow fuel system to prime.
 
We do agree the system is self-priming, but...

I understand and agree the system is self-priming, but my truck always starts the first try and in the normal number turns on the engine by bleeding the canister and it's always smooth running. Using the self-priming method takes two or three tries and is hard starting.



I've done both ways and prefer my way. That's what comes of being a hard-headed Texan :D



Happy trails, Wiredawg
 
wiredawg Thanks for the info as I will use your system from now on. Lots easier than pouring fuel into cannister & on everything else in the vicinity. Always learning something on here.

dennis
 
Followed procedure posted by DJaquez. Could hear lift pump shut off after 25 seconds. Started engine. Ran real smooth. Simple - real simple.
 
works on some, not all

Bill:



It's great it works on your's, but it pretty much worked like the rest of DJaquez instructions below on mine, 2-3 bumps and a couple of 25 second runs on the starter.



"(2) If the engine does not start after 25 seconds,

turn key OFF. Repeat previous step until engine

starts. "



"(4) Attempt to start engine. If engine will not

start, proceed to following steps. When engine does

start, it may run erratically and be noisy for a

few minutes. This is a normal condition. "




My recommendation everyone: Try this and if it starts right up, go for it. If not, prime it and save your injection pump and starter.



Wiredawg
 
Wiredawg

Coming to S A middle of Oct. to visit cousins. Maybe we can get together for a cold one & swap stories, lies & annecdotes regarding the mighty cummins. Not sure what my Texas tour guides have planned but I should be able to sneak away for an afternoon if you are interested. Have noticed that there are quite a few Texas members of the TDR

dennis
 
Sounds Great!

Dennis



We're in Del Rio Columbus Day weekend, but we can make it happen any other weekend. PM me w/ your travel plans and we'll see what we can work out.



See ya, Ron
 
Hi Ron

Will do soon as I know anything & can figure out how to PM on this new format.

When is Columbus Day? We are flying in on the 15th & out on the 22

Thanks

Dennis
 
Don't know how to PM on this new format...

Dennis:



Just figured it out. Click on the members TDR name on the post. It will give you an option to send private message (PM). BTW, Columbus day is Oct 11th.



Talk to you soon,



Wiredawg
 
Last edited:
The cannister is self-priming, just "bump" (do not start) the starter a couple of times to prime, the engine will start right up after this proceedure. Do not use the square hole on the plastic cover, it will crack. Use a 1 1/8" wrench to remove the cap. Sure is a whole lot easer to replace the filter than in earlier models.



Dean
 
DCaswell said:
I use 11/8 socket, less chance of burring the cap when removing. Cap only needs to be hand tight when closing.



Ok, I broke down went to Home Depot and bout a 1-1/8" socket. I made sure I bought a 6 point, since I am dealing with a factory seal, and PLASTIC! I am going to try this tomorrow (14,326 miles on truck)



Hand tight? I am getting visions of fuel spraying everywhere. On a pressurized system, I am thinking hand tight is not tight enough.
 
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