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Changing oil too soon is bad??

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Oil roll call- older engines only please.

MagHitec - Oil Drain Valve

Anyone an oil expert or know John Martin the oil guy and can verify the accuracy of the following comments on a VW TDI forum about someone wanting to change their oil at 7,500 miles? Does the following only apply to diesel oils? Thoughts?

(I would quote it correctly, but then most of it is hidden)

From here: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=2340534&postcount=27
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STOP STOP STOP!

The ORIGINAL factory APPROVED oil change interval is 30,000 miles! YES 30,000 MILES!!

Did you comprehend that?

THE ORGINAL OIL CHANGE INTERVAL APPROVAL IS 30,000 MILES!!!

Now that I have that off my chest,

VW reduced the interval from 30,000 miles to 10,000 miles in the US market...any guesses why?

Because people like you either:
1) Can't read the owners manual
2) Don't trust the car makers
3) Can't follow directions
4) Fail to adhere to the service indicator in the car

VW does NOT want oil change intervals of less than 10,000 miles due to how the oils function in the engine, shorter intervals INCREASE WEAR, Don't argue with me about it, if you take the time to track wear rates during an oil change at 250 mile intervals you can plot the reduction and stabilization of the wear rates out beyond 25,000 miles!

Think of oil as having 2 types of wear reducing additives, the first provides protection by/thru detergancy (cleansing of internal surfaces), dispersing soot, neutralizing acids (not an issue now with ULSD), and several other types as well. These additives are generally very specific to diesel engines and must pass specific tests in VW Diesel engines.

The next type of additive is a wear additive. These protect the engine where the thickness of oil may be too thin to prevent metal to metal contact. Other additves in this type range also provide protection to the cam and lifters, engine bearings, piston wrist pins etc.

Now pay attention, the 2nd group of additives account for less than 3% of the total volume of the oil. These additives also account for 90% of the engines oil protection! These additives require heat and pressure to bond with the critical wear surfaces, but due to the low percentage of additive in the oil they require time to fully place on those surfaces by the pressures of the component they are protecting. Example, an engine at operating temperature at the point where the cam presses on the lifter generates in excess of 90,000 psi, that pressure and the heat of the engine causes the 3% portion of the 1 micron thick oil film to form a crust or sacrifical layer at the point of contact. Since only 3% of the oil contains the wear additives, it requires hundreds of thousands of passes to generate a sufficient film to stop the wear at this specific point in the engine.

Everybody is quick to make the arguement that the old oil had these additives so they are already in place, right? not quite!

Remember the first type of additive? In that 1st group you had "detergents" that cleanse the inside of the motor. These cleansers are used up very rapidly after an oil change since they attack the remaining oil that was left after the oil change. These cleansers if you will also reduce the effectiveness of the high pressure wear additives...See where this is going?

Before explaining further, after that initial period the dispersants in the oil work to prevent the adhering of the particles in the oil to any of the internal surfaces. These additives are often unique to diesel engines are also the reason why the oil looks so black so quickly, they are doing their job by preventing the soot from building up in any one place instead they are dispersed in the oil evenly throughout the oil sump which prevents sludging and other contamination related issues.

Back to the detergents and the high pressure additives, the layers of high pressure additives leftover are not being replenished after the oil change due to the cleaning process that is going on with the new oil to neutralize the remaining acids, and other contaminants in the engine. As the cleaners in the oil are used up in the first 500-1000 miles, the wear additives are able to re-generate a protective layer in the engine that stops the wear at that location.

You break down the oils life cycle like this:

Phase 1: Detergants attack the internals removing accumlated contaminants, neutralize acids and force those into suspenstion in the oil. This period of time lasts between 500-1000 miles

Phase 2: During the first 1000 miles the oils viscosity provides the majority of the wear protection by virtue of the film it creates on the surfaces. This phase generates relatively high wear rates but due to the short duration this is accepted due to the removal of contaminants that could result in long term damage to the motor. Wear rates in the period of time are generally speaking 5-10ppm per 1000 miles.

Phase 3: Detergents are now used up and the oil additives are forming their protective layers in the "extreme pressure" regions of the motor. Now the oil additives are working in conjunction with the oil film and the wear rates drop from 10ppm per 1000 miles to around 1-2ppm per 1000 miles.

Phase 4: Longterm peace! The oil is operating in a period of equilibrium, the wear additives are placed, Oil viscosity is in perfect range for the engine, Dispersants are continually working to prevent soot and other contaminants from accumulating on the surfaces and wear rates remain between 1-3ppm per 1000 miles.

Phase 5: Oil run out, the oil during this phase begins to increase in viscosity (or thin in some cases), Extreme pressure additives begin to lose effectiveness due to increased concentrations of wear particles (VW tests out to 8%, most oil changes never see in excess of 2% after 30,000 miles). This is when you begin to see a rise in the wear metal formation in the engine. Often wear metals during this phase rise to the 3-8ppm per 1000 mile range. Notice that the wear metals being generated are still LOWER than they were in the first 1000 miles?

--------------------------------------------------------------

When somebody says they are going to change the oil every 5000 miles or twice as often they are DOUBLING the number of detergent cycles and DOUBLING the number of cycles where the engine is running at it's highest wear rates!

PPM/Fe (generation of Fe in 1000 mile increments)
Short drain intervals
1K oil change
10ppm = 10ppm in 1000 miles = 10ppm/1000 miles

3K oil change
10+2+2 = 14ppm in 3000 miles = 4.6ppm/1000 miles

5K oil change
10+2+2+2+2: Change oil = 18ppm in 5000 miles = 3.6ppm/1000 miles

Long drain intervals
10K oil change
10+2+2+2+2+2+2+2+2+3 = 29 ppm in 10,000 miles = 2.9ppm/1000 miles

15K oil change
10+2+2+2+2+2+2+2+2+3+3+3+3+3+3 = 44ppm in 15,000 miles = 2.9 ppm/1000 miles

20K oil change
10+2+2+2+2+2+2+2+2+3+3+3+3+3+3+3+3+3+4+4 = 61ppm in 20,000 miles = 3.3ppm/1000 miles

When ppm of Fe per 1000 miles reaches 5-7ppm per 1000 miles you can consider the oil ready for a change...

The above is based on real world TDI oil samples.

I have personally used up to 25,000 mile oil drain intervals on my TDI and still never reached the 5-7ppm range! I changed it at that time due to soot and TBN depletion (high sulfur fuel at the time).

Anybody that tells you that short oil drain intervals are good for your motor don't know what they are talking about!

DB
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Short answer: Changing oil too soon = more money and more work; no value added.

Long Answer: When I was getting my Industrial Technology degree, we came across a study made about oil changes in fleet use. For your reference, this was 1985, and is dated. The study used police and taxi fleets to assess: oil and filter changes, 3K, 5K, 10K 15K 25K and 50K
Same with only filter changes and top with oil
And nothing but check and top off oil
Interesting result was there was no significant difference in oil related failures. Would I ever do this, I kinda did with Amsoil and bypass oil on my

I've always used 5K miles and had no problems, ever; I ran Amsoil and a bypass filter and got up to 35K with recommended filter changes and great oil analysis on my 02 Ram 3500. Nowhere have I ever heard or experienced changing too often as detrimental. I friend used to run Royal Purple in his Ford 250 and changed it every 3K miles. I asked him if I could have what he drained out to put in mine. He couldn't cuz he had it done.

Now, I on my 2017 5500, it's 10K miles or 12 months whichever comes first. The owners manual has 13.5K for C&Cs and 15K miles on pickups. Easier math for me. and I've always felt filters and oil cheap insurance on longevity. In all the vehicles I've owned, all over 200K miles, none ever burned, leaked or used oil. I'm confident in this. And, every vehicle I own, I maintain a fuel and maintenance log for every fill up, fluid check, fluid change, and maintenance. Gets me lots more when selling trading having that level of records. Old habits die hard.

So, no way is wrong... do what you do and I do what I do and everyone is happy. maybe someone else will read your post and change their minds, which is good.

Thanks for the info.

Cheers, Ron
 
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I run full 15k with great Blackstone reports.

Hi Ron1,
I initially picked Mobil 1 5W40 for my 2017 5500 due to broader availability, but now I'm considering going back to Amsoil basic 15W40. Had fantastic results with heavy towing on two trucks, my 02 3500 and my 09 4500. At one time I had three Ram Cummins trucks so found value in purchasing Ansoil 33gal barrel.

Anyway, I'm looking to purchase Amsoil again. but now seeing more choices than before. Which one are you using, and if not the basic one, why the one you picked.

Thanks. Ron2
 
Anyway, I'm looking to purchase Amsoil again. but now seeing more choices than before. Which one are you using, and if not the basic one, why the one you picked.

I currently have ADP in my motor for the “break-in” run. I’ll have it there for 6 months and then switch out to DME for 12 month OCI’s.

Dad is running ADP in his 17 because it has a forever warranty that needs to have 6 month OCI’s documented.
 
I currently have ADP in my motor for the “break-in” run. I’ll have it there for 6 months and then switch out to DME for 12 month OCI’s.

Dad is running ADP in his 17 because it has a forever warranty that needs to have 6 month OCI’s documented.

I'm on the Amsoil website, Is DME the 15W40 HD diesel and marine? Without doing searches. I think I recall Ron mentioning that's what he runs.

FYI, I screwed up thinking the Fleetguard filter that came on my truck was a Mopar branded Stratapore, so bought 12 from Genos. After much deliberation, I've decided to run them as that is what FCA certifies for warranty compliance. Being a type A is sometimes hard to overcome my instinct to give them away and buy Statapores.

Just wondering is the higher TBN the reason for picking this product?

Thanks. Ron
 
I'm on the Amsoil website, Is DME the 15W40 HD diesel and marine? Without doing searches. I think I recall Ron mentioning that's what he runs.

That is the AME, which is CI-4+ and not compatible with a DPF. It's a great oil, and was my go-to until DME came out. I think DME is a better oil even in pre-DPF engines.


FYI, I screwed up thinking the Fleetguard filter that came on my truck was a Mopar branded Stratapore, so bought 12 from Genos. After much deliberation, I've decided to run them as that is what FCA certifies for warranty compliance. Being a type A is sometimes hard to overcome my instinct to give them away and buy Statapores.

MOPAR filters are 40µ, Stratapore are 25µ, and Donaldson DBL7349 are 15µ. I only run the Donaldson filters.

Lots of people getting lots of miles out of OEM thou... I just can't bring myself to run a 40µ filters.

Just wondering is the higher TBN the reason for picking this product?

The better additive package are why I'll run DME over ADP.

If the OCI is 6 months then the ADP is plenty, and cheaper. ADP actually has a slightly higher TBN, 0.1 higher, but is only rated for OEM OCI's which is 6 months or 15K miles. DME is rated for up to 2x OEM, 25K miles, or 12 months.
 
That is the AME, which is CI-4+ and not compatible with a DPF. It's a great oil, and was my go-to until DME came out. I think DME is a better oil even in pre-DPF engines.




MOPAR filters are 40µ, Stratapore are 25µ, and Donaldson DBL7349 are 15µ. I only run the Donaldson filters.

Lots of people getting lots of miles out of OEM thou... I just can't bring myself to run a 40µ filters.



The better additive package are why I'll run DME over ADP.

If the OCI is 6 months then the ADP is plenty, and cheaper. ADP actually has a slightly higher TBN, 0.1 higher, but is only rated for OEM OCI's which is 6 months or 15K miles. DME is rated for up to 2x OEM, 25K miles, or 12 months.

I know, me too on the oil filters. None of my friends with Ram Cummins change their own oil, so no one to really to give them to. I've been running Stratapore exclusively on my trucks since this blunder. Stupid me.

Thanks for the info...although back in 2002 when I started using Amsoil in my trucks, I don't remember having but a couple of choices. Thanks for the education.

Waiting for Ron1 to chime in also... I know he's a big Amzoil user too.

Cheers, Ron
 
Allmost all today sold vehicles in Europe have that high oil change intervals, it's standard.
Class8 it up to above 100'000M intervalls.
 
There are a few questions that come to mind after reading that post regardless of if the guy’s conclusion is correct or not.

I never gave oil too much thought and just figured all the additives slowly depleted over time. So my first question is: Is the guy correct in that the detergent is highly active right after adding the new oil and it gets depleted fairly quickly? If the detergent “cleans” the old oil gunk right away only to let it drop out of suspension over time…what is the point of that? This would lead one to think more frequent changes would be better.

I've done more reading than I wanted to over on Bob is the oil guy forum and imo the jury is still out on if it is worse for the engine to do too frequent changes compared to running to the recommended interval the mfg suggests. And I assume it depends on if the oil is dino or synthetic (meaning real synthetic, like before they slackened the rules as to what can be called a synthetic) and the quality of the oil. Supposedly there is a SAE paper on the topic, but it appears to be from 2003 (and costs money to get) and would it even be relevant to the oils out there today?

My interest is because we bought a new VW which has a specific 508 synthetic oil spec which is not available in any auto stores. The mfg calls for 10K change interval, but I don't like the look or smell of the oil at 5K miles, so am going to change it. I'm not concerned about doing any harm changing at 5K. That said, I would be very interested if there was hard proof, or even a very logical explanation that could stand up to scrutiny, that harm to the engine could occur from changing the oil too early. I’d also like to understand the oil’s life cycle better. The problem is figuring out who knows their stuff vs who is an internet expert.
 
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There are a few questions that come to mind after reading that post regardless of if the guy’s conclusion is correct or not.

I never gave oil too much thought and just figured all the additives slowly depleted over time. So my first question is: Is the guy correct in that the detergent is highly active right after adding the new oil and it gets depleted fairly quickly? If the detergent “cleans” the old oil gunk right away only to let it drop out of suspension over time…what is the point of that? This would lead one to think more frequent changes would be better.

I've done more reading than I wanted to over on Bob is the oil guy forum and imo the jury is still out on if it is worse for the engine to do too frequent changes compared to running to the recommended interval the mfg suggests. And I assume it depends on if the oil is dino or synthetic (meaning real synthetic, like before they slackened the rules as to what can be called a synthetic) and the quality of the oil. Supposedly there is a SAE paper on the topic, but it appears to be from 2003 (and costs money to get) and would it even be relevant to the oils out there today?

My interest is because we bought a new VW which has a specific 508 synthetic oil spec which is not available in any auto stores. The mfg calls for 10K change interval, but I don't like the look or smell of the oil at 5K miles, so am going to change it. I'm not concerned about doing any harm changing at 5K. That said, I would be very interested if there was hard proof, or even a very logical explanation that could stand up to scrutiny, that harm to the engine could occur from changing the oil too early. I’d also like to understand the oil’s life cycle better. The problem is figuring who knows their stuff vs who is an internet expert.

I never did oil changes less than 5K miles. Oil and some fluids are tricky to judge by color or smell, unless obviously burnt. Does VW have a mileage and time interval like Ram? On my 2017, change ever 13,500 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. If you weren't putting many miles on it, that condition of putting new oil in too often. You would think VW would have a minimum oil change interval stated to not do sooner than x miles if detrimental to the engine.

Cheers, Ron
 
I run the 15-40 Diesel Marine "NON LE" in my 01 Sport, 99 Tahoe, 350 Boat engine, DR Brush Mower, Pressure Washer and Honda 2000.

I run the 15-40 Signature Series in my 15. It has a cold pour temp only 2 degrees higher then the 5-40. Personally would NOT run 5-40.

I have always used the StrataPore (now made in mexico) but will be using the Donaldson/AMZ/OIL filter on my 15.

IMG_0134.JPG
 
Ron,
Thanks. Renewing my membership to get this for next oil change. Not going to do 6 mo interval but 12 mo should work about right. Mileage should work out once I'm rolling again.

Cheers, Ron
 
Take great care doin so, I know German Engineering and if they designed the engine to work with 0-20 then something bad COULD happen with a 5-30.
Just my 2 cent.
Ozy I'm sure you are more familiar with FUCHS than me, generally their info is pretty spot on. That being sad you are right in that current engines are designed around a specific viscosity oil
 
Ozy I'm sure you are more familiar with FUCHS than me, generally their info is pretty spot on. That being sad you are right in that current engines are designed around a specific viscosity oil

That's correct, they have ONE Oil on their line that has this specification, https://www.fuchs.com/de/en/special/product/product/8841-titan-gt1-pro-c-3-sae-5w-30/ a high end product of course.

So, to me, I read the pdf that you attached that exactly this oil from Fuchs is compatible with the 507/509 - but not every 5-30 that is on the market, even fully synthetic.
I check that out if I find the time to do so.
 
Brods, have you seen this



https://www.fuchs.com/fileadmin/sch..._from_FUCHS_for__VW_508_00-509_00_02-2017.pdf


The 504 spec (I think) is 5w30, I'd definitely run it if I had a choice over a 0w20. VW is pressing really hard for better fleet mpg avg.
One of the main reasons we purchased the VW Tiguan is for the 6 yr 72K bumper to bumper warranty. I'll run what they want and if anything happens it is their problem :)

I purchased an oil change kit from ESC which has the Castrol Edge Professional 0W-20 meeting the 508 spec, a filter and drain plug. Pricey at $71 for the kit with six quarts.
 
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