2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Changing shocks on 2001 4x4, have ????

[JCyrbok]

I am in need of new shocks and I really dont want to pay someone to do what I can do myself. I have a DC shop manual for my truck and it devotes a grand total of about 10 lines for the removal and install of shocks. According to the manual it looks very easy to do, but sometimes I think because my manuals are pro-shop manuals they assume skills/equipement that I may not have ie; a vehicle hoist. (I do have a jack and jack stands)



Can shocks be done in my garage, no hoist etc. ANy special tools? do u just remove and replace (according to directions) or does the truck have to be raised and/or weight taken off the axles. Anything else u can think of would be great. I have a fair amount of mechanical skill, but have never changed shocks on any veh much less my truck.



Truck is 2001 quad cab 4x4 which will be getting either Bilstein or Ranchos as replacement for the stock shocks.



Thanks for any input,



J-

 

[BarryG]

JC:

If I recall it was not that big of a deal. You may have to get a bit creative pulling the shock/mount through the rats nest of stuff on the drivers side but not a real problem. Pass side remove the airbox for easy access on that side. I dont recall any special tools needed. Rear shocks I had to remove one of my stabilizer bolts to get to the lower shock bolt but no problem. I removed the front tires just for more room to work but you could probably do it without taking them off. No need to worry about a lift or anything like that.

 

[DieselDoghouse]

I don't know the 2001 trucks (so why am I jumping in??) but on my G2 it was always a ***** compressing the new shock to get the top 'spider' bolted down - until I tried lifting the truck by the frame and letting the axle hang down, then lifting the axle just enough to line up the bolts - piece of cake. Don't know if this will help…

 

[JCyrbok]

thanks for the info/tips guys. SOunds like more of an annoying job than anything, LOL.



Anyone else have tips or tricks let me know.



Thanks



J-

 

[BOstiguy]

I just did mine a couple of months ago and the biggest pain for me was trying to break free the top nut. Mine was frozen on there and would spin the shaft when I tried to loosen it. Of course it was the drivers side with very little hand room.

Anyways, what worked for me was soaking it in lubricant ( I used PB Blaster) for a few days before re-attempting to remove it.



Now thinking about it, you don't need to remove that nut prior to taking the shock out of the coil. Remove the lower shock bolt, remove the 3 shock tower bolts from the top and snake it out of the engine compartment. You may need to compress the shock to get it out of the drivers side...

You'll do fine once you get going... just remember to not tighten everything up snug unless the truck is sitting flat on the ground (neutral position)



good luck!



ps. just remember the whole shock and tower do fit coming out of the drivers side... it looks tough but it'll sneak thru. .

 

[JCyrbok]

Cool thanks BO, I have already been giving all the nuts a daily dose of PB so hopefully when my shocks arrive next week they should be ready to come off.



Good info about the truck being in neutral position on the ground before snugging everything down.

Thanks



J-

 

[TboneMan]

I've done my 2001 twice (160,000 mile on the truck) and did a friends 2001 gasser too.



As mentioned, it is a pretty easy job and make sure you soak the connections with a penetrating solution for a day or two before you do the job. You will probably want 1/2" drive sockets and a breaker bar for the lower front shackle bolts abd the rears.



Remove the spare tire from the well under the truck bed to get more room underneath.



A couple of things to watch out for:



When removing the rear most nuts from the front shock towers, don't let them fall into what I would describe as a channel. It is part of the frame, or other front suspension (I don't remember). This channel is positioned in the perfect spot to "grab" a dropped nut. The problem is, it is next to impossible to get the nut back out. It took me almost an hour to get the dropped nut out (on my first shock job, lesson learned).



Take care when doing the passenger side rear. The flange on the top shackle nut wants to bend when it hit the frame. The flange is suppose to stop the nut from spinning as it is VERY difficult to get a wrench on it. What happens is the flange starts to bend and can eventually roll right over the frame.



Depending on how many miles you have on the truck you may want to invest in some new shackle bolts. If there is significant wear, you will have a clunck in the front end.

 

[JCyrbok]

Thanks T-Bone.



J-

 

[Partyat33]

It was pretty easy. Although I had the engine out at the time. Should not be that hard at all. What do you have to lose ?

 

[JCyrbok]

They're in

Thanks for the help and tips guys. The Bilsteins are in. I went with the yellow/blue ones.



Man I did not think that my old shocks were as bad as they actually were. Difference is night and day between the stock ones and the Bilsteins.



Thanks



J-