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changing the trans fluid

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Replace rear main seal/front G56 seal ??

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I have the 47RE auto, and when I hit 15k I changed the fluid and changed over to a double deep trans pan. Then the dealer flushed it for the 30k service. Right now I'm at 50k, but don't plan on changing for another couple months, or maybe around 60-65k. I don't tow, and it shifts fine, so no worries for now. I'll add the trans temp guage one of the these days, too. Pennies are currently being saved for a trans upgrade to handle any future bombs, too.



Bottom line is that fluid is cheap. Good arguments on both sides, but I chose to change mine more often than recommended for peace of mind. It I had the 48 RE, I might not worry so much... ;-) Hope this helps.

TP
 
Let me add that I've started getting the transmisson (auto) flushed the last few years and really notice a difference. I didn't believe it until the first time I had it done on our 2000 Chrysler at 30K and it made a real difference. My '02 Dodge now gets it done every 25K along with a fresh filter and band adjustment. If you don't tow, I could see extending this to 35K or more depending on how hard you use the truck. I assume the 48RE still calls for band adjustments as well.
 
It does. BUT its never really done or find any out of adjustment. done at rebuild time and thats about it. . Ask any good trans man the TRUTH about ban adjustments. Its wording for SOME reason left over from the dinosaur era. I know I'll get flame for this buts its the truth. Kinda like clutch adjustment. Bygone thing.
 
No, the NV4500 5 speed using a different spec fluid. It's a heavier weight gear lube, but not a common one as I remember.
 
shendren said:
Lighten Up Lightman.....



How original! I'm fine on this end, it just blows my mind that sometimes people are too lazy to read their book and instead post basic questions here like that. The typical service intervals most of us follow is 15k do the diffs and xfer case fluid, and 30k do the trans assuming you have an auto. Not sure on the manuals.



Mfrost - I just did mine this past weekend. I was able to get 6. 5 quarts out just doing the pan and filter change. I kept empty quart containers to measure - just pour the old fluid back into the quarts before disposing/recycling it and you will know exactly how much you drained. When you fill, fill 1 quart less than the total amount drained... should get you right at the MIN line. Run till operating temp, put in neutral, and measure. Add as needed to get into the OK/max area.
 
DPKetchum said:
It does. BUT its never really done or find any out of adjustment. done at rebuild time and thats about it. . Ask any good trans man the TRUTH about ban adjustments. Its wording for SOME reason left over from the dinosaur era. I know I'll get flame for this buts its the truth. Kinda like clutch adjustment. Bygone thing.



Yeah, but isn't our transmissions (old torqueflite w/ OD added) from the time of the dinosaur anyway! ;)
 
Thanks Lightman :) With only getting 6. 5 quarts out of it maybe it would be wiser to flush with the first change at 15K. :confused:
 
I've seen many torn down(2 to 6 a week)for a few years. 99%of the bans were in excellant to good shape. Seals and clutch packs and TORQUE convertors is what failed.
 
DPKetchum said:
Flush is the only way to go at 15k or 30k. leave the pan ALONE.

What do you mean "leave the pan alone" ? Don't you have to remove the pan to change the oil and filter :confused: When I do this then the a drain plug is getting installed.
 
If your installing a drain plug well then yes it has to be removed otherwise FLUSHING it does not. Filter is easily good till 60 or 90k
 
I finally looked in my CD manual :rolleyes: and I only found info about oil and filter change. Did I overlook something or is this something transmission shops do. I know that I saw some procedures to do a flush a couple weeks ago on here but can't find them now :{
 
Good general repair shops,quick lubes and most dealers as well as trans shops will have a machine to do this. Prices seem to vary greatly anywhere from the $120 to $200 range. Its a bladder/exchange unit. With truck running on a lift and usually in reverse gear(little higher pressure then D or 1)the old fliud comes out and new fliud in the bladder goes in. Most have a sight glass and you can watch the transformation.
 
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DPKetchum said:
Good general repair shops,quick lubes and most dealers as well as trans shops will have a machine to do this. Prices seem to vary greatly anywhere from the $120 to $200 range. Its a bladder/exchange unit. With truck running on a left and usually in reverse gear(little higher pressure then D or 1)the old fliud comes out and new fliud in the bladder goes in. Most have a sight glass and you can watch the transformation.

Thanks for the help. That answers my questions. Now I just have to do it.
 
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