Changing the transmission sump filter in an Aisin AS69RC equipped RAM 3500 pickup

[Ram4Sam]

When you get the bolts through the drilled holes will the pan drop down far enough to clear the low hanging transmission parts and come off? Its a good idea if the pan can be removed.

TB

It looked like enough room to me........I don't know. The pan is much shallower in the back by the cross member than it is up front. Looks like you could lower the front and it would come right out. That's why it would be cool for a tech to chime in to see how they do it. Also, who has a shop manual and what does it say?

Sam

 

[Ram4Sam]

There's a drain plug on the pan. Although I didn't specifically check for TC inspection, most likely yes on that too.

Drilling holes is not going to be an option because the edge of the square tube lines up right where the holes would have to be drilled.

Me and the dog were just laying on the hot pavement doing some eyeball engineering, it would be real close for sure. Another option would be when you have the cross member off like Greg did, cut it back just enough so you can get to the bolts and drop the pan straight down, get out the welder and box it back in. Sure make it easier for the next time. As wide as that cross member is, once it is boxed back in, it should be plenty strong.

Sam

 

[JLandry]

Another option would be when you have the cross member off like Greg did, cut it back just enough so you can get to the bolts and drop the pan straight down, get out the welder and box it back in. Sure make it easier for the next time. As wide as that cross member is, once it is boxed back in, it should be plenty strong.

There's an aftermarket opportunity for someone... modified transmission cross members for Aisin equipped trucks! Maybe an exchange program.

 

[TCDiesel]

I posted picture of the wrench needed to remove the rear bolts, I don't have the time now to search for the link, it reaches form the sides, after the bolts are removed, you still need to raise the rear of the transmission 3/4", but yes you do not need to remove the trans CM. The wrench cost $30-40.

 

[gsbrockman]

I posted picture of the wrench needed to remove the rear bolts, I don't have the time now to search for the link, it reaches form the sides, after the bolts are removed, you still need to raise the rear of the transmission 3/4", but yes you do not need to remove the trans CM. The wrench cost $30-40.

Going off memory.....I thought you ended up bailing on dropping the pan because it didn't work??? Perhaps I'll graze through your previous posts....

 

[TCDiesel]

It kept nagging at Me, I pulled it into the shop late 1 night and removed the pan, I also opened the drain Valve (Fumoto) and ran the truck in (N) 13.25 QTS. The bang you experienced was probably related to over filling at 1st. I did the final fill in 3 stages, running the trans in (N) between each 4 QT and final 1.25 QT intervals.

 

[gsbrockman]

It kept nagging at Me, I pulled it into the shop late 1 night and removed the pan, I also opened the drain Valve (Fumoto) and ran the truck in (N) 13.25 QTS. The bang you experienced was probably related to over filling at 1st. I did the final fill in 3 stages, running the trans in (N) between each 4 QT and final 1.25 QT intervals.

Was it a pain to re-start those bolts with that little of clearance??? Thanks.........I'll keep that in mind (run truck in N) at my next drain & fill. You're running Mobil 3309 as well, correct?? What exactly does the service manual say in regards to pan removal?? Thanks TC !!!

 

[SnoKing]

I posted picture of the wrench needed to remove the rear bolts, I don't have the time now to search for the link, it reaches form the sides, after the bolts are removed, you still need to raise the rear of the transmission 3/4", but yes you do not need to remove the trans CM. The wrench cost $30-40.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...0-Thought-I-would-share?highlight=10mm+wrench

 

[HorseMan-AR]

TC Diesel - in the post above (posted by SNOKING), you mentioned the wrench was too short to get at the middle bolts. Can you tell us how you finally got to them? Do you have a pic of this wrench you used?

 

[TCDiesel]

8mm on 1 end 10MM on the other. You still need to loosen the 2 Trans mount bolts and raise the trans 3/4 inch.

 

[gsbrockman]

As of today, The Radio Flyer is at 131,803 miles, 203 idle hours, and 2,463 drive hours.

Last week, I ordered a new OEM transmission pan gasket, OEM transmission sump filter, and another CCV filter from Amazon. Everything but the CCV arrived as of Tuesday this week.

Today I serviced the 11.8" / 300mm rear differential with 4 quarts of Valvoline SynPower 75W90.

I also partly changed the transmission fluid / did a partial transmission fluid change and sump filter replacement on the ol' AS69RC. :-laf My drain time (I also was servicing the rear differential simultaneously) yielded, so far, a 9.5 quart drain. I replaced the partially drained transmission fluid with Mobil 3309 ATF. I'll "tweak" it a little better when I have a better chance to get it to operating temperature in the next few days, but it should be realllllllly close as is as I measured the partially drained transmission fluid.

 

[kthaxton]

Silly you, you don't have to point out that it was "partial"......must of us just assume. :-laf

 

[Kirwin]

I just serviced mine at 29,514 miles (oil change only). Based on Greg's post I had 8.5 quarts on hand to refill. I drained out approximately 8 quarts as best I could tell from putting the used fluid in old 1 gallon oil jugs. I put in 7 quarts, started the truck, shifted through all the ranges, then pulled the truck out of the garage and backed it back in. Checked level, and it was just on the tip of the dipstick below the full cold mark. Added another 1/2 quart, level still an inch below the "safe area" but transmission temperature was only about 100F. Took the truck out and drove it 25 miles to get it up to temperature. Backed it back into the garage and added 1/2 quart at at time until I had added all I had on hand. At this point it was just 1/4" below the crosshatched "safe area". Another trip to the dealer to get 2 more quarts. It took another 1/2 quart for a total of 9 full quarts to get it to the middle of the safe cross hatch at 161 F as indicated on the EVIC. Once it gets close a little fluid raises it a quite a bit. .

 

[Cummins12V98]

It kept nagging at Me, I pulled it into the shop late 1 night and removed the pan, I also opened the drain Valve (Fumoto) and ran the truck in (N) 13.25 QTS. The bang you experienced was probably related to over filling at 1st. I did the final fill in 3 stages, running the trans in (N) between each 4 QT and final 1.25 QT intervals.

Just read thru this again. Did you have the drain plug out of the trans pan and then start the truck and ran it in neutral? You were able to get 13.25 its out of the trans?

I am not at my shop si I drained my pan overnight yesterday with 30,417 miles. I did start the truck after the main volume has drained with the plug in and about 1 qt came out. I only ran it for a short time with shifting thru the gears. I drained exactly 8qts. Tried popping the trans line at the front of the truck on my Son's truck last summer like I did on my 11 with 68RFE. We barely got any fluid out that way. Someone mentioned a thermostat in line.

So when I get back to my shop in the spring I want to change ALL the fluid and filter. I am looking for suggestions for the best way to do that.

 

[TCDiesel]

If memory serve me I open the Fumoto with the truck running, When it was down to a trickle I shut the truck off, Removed the pan and change the filter.

 

[BILLUA]

Tagged!. But, I only have 7,500K on mine....And, thats after a round trip to Tennessee,..

 

[transe]

Hey guys, I would highly recommend that you NOT run the engine if the transmission has little or no fluid in it!

Would you run the engine (when doing an engine oil change) after you had drained all the oil out? Yikes!!

 

[Kirwin]

My thoughts exactly TransEngineer. you never get all the fluid out, so why would you do that to your transmission???? Chrysler says drain and refill at 30 K, change the filter drain and refill at 60K. That's what's required, that's what I'm doing. I don't think the engineers would disconnect a cooler line and drain the fluid using the transmission pump to force the liquid out. Too much risk of damaging something. There is oil in the oil pump on the engine too. I don't start the engine to get it out when I change the oil!

Just like changing coolant, I get out all I can and then put the plug in and refill, and call it good.

 

[transe]

My thoughts exactly TransEngineer. you never get all the fluid out, so why would you do that to your transmission???? Chrysler says drain and refill at 30 K, change the filter drain and refill at 60K. That's what's required, that's what I'm doing. I don't think the engineers would disconnect a cooler line and drain the fluid using the transmission pump to force the liquid out. Too much risk of damaging something. There is oil in the oil pump on the engine too. I don't start the engine to get it out when I change the oil!

Just like changing coolant, I get out all I can and then put the plug in and refill, and call it good.

Actually, you can disconnect a cooler line (and run the engine) in order to purge old oil out of the torque converter, IF you are simultaneously adding new fluid down the filler tube (or have deliberately overfilled the trans) so it doesn't run the pan dry. But yes, you don't want to simply disconnect the cooler line and then run it "until it stops coming out."

 

[Cummins12V98]

"Actually, you can disconnect a cooler line (and run the engine) in order to purge old oil out of the torque converter, IF you are simultaneously adding new fluid down the filler tube (or have deliberately overfilled the trans) so it doesn't run the pan dry. But yes, you don't want to simply disconnect the cooler line and then run it "until it stops coming out."

TransEngineer please elaborate. I have done so on many vehicles but when trying my tried and true method of complete fluid exchange on my Sons 15 with Aisin by popping a line up front on the passenger side there was barely any fluid coming out. Where would you suggest I pop a line? To be clear I drain the pan then refill with exactly the amount I drained then start truck and run til it sputters. Then that same amount goes back in. Repeat til the fluid color changes and refill same amount. Then i have a complete fluid exchange.