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Changing the transmission sump filter in an Aisin AS69RC equipped RAM 3500 pickup

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Hey guys, I would highly recommend that you NOT run the engine if the transmission has little or no fluid in it!

Would you run the engine (when doing an engine oil change) after you had drained all the oil out? Yikes!!

I should have elaborated , It only took seconds to Drain it, and you are not going to get all The Fluid. If you leave it run for even 20 Seconds its not going to cause wear or damage IMO.

Truck was on lift drained about 1 Gallon Auto-started the truck for 10 Seconds, Drained another 1 Gallon Auto started 10 more seconds and got 5 more QTs, dropped the pan and removed Filter probably another pint. This is with fumoto valve it would be to risky by plug only.
 
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"Actually, you can disconnect a cooler line (and run the engine) in order to purge old oil out of the torque converter, IF you are simultaneously adding new fluid down the filler tube (or have deliberately overfilled the trans) so it doesn't run the pan dry. But yes, you don't want to simply disconnect the cooler line and then run it "until it stops coming out."

TransEngineer please elaborate. I have done so on many vehicles but when trying my tried and true method of complete fluid exchange on my Sons 15 with Aisin by popping a line up front on the passenger side there was barely any fluid coming out. Where would you suggest I pop a line? To be clear I drain the pan then refill with exactly the amount I drained then start truck and run til it sputters. Then that same amount goes back in. Repeat til the fluid color changes and refill same amount. Then i have a complete fluid exchange.

Look in the middle of the cooler lines (probably just in front of the trans) for a Thermal Bypass Valve (TBV), which is an H-shaped block of aluminum. When the fluid is cool, the TBV routes all the fluid right back to the trans, so nothing significant goes to the cooler. That's why, if you pull a line up front, you get no flow. You'll need to disconnect a line somewhere between the trans and the TBV.

I would not let it pump out until it sputters. I would add new fluid as the old is being pumped out. Or, overfill it by maybe 3 quarts, then pump 3 quarts out, then overfill it again, etc.
 
My AS69RC has held together just fine with 30k drains / 60k drains & sump filter replacements without jacking around with any lines. I'm at 197,009 miles, 311 idle hours, and 3,652 drive hours. The AS69RC has been flawless with the prescribed maintenance intervals from RAM.
 
Greg, I got to ask.... do you put 11 quarts, 24 Oz in, or do you dump in 3 gallons and go? :-laf:-laf:-laf
 
Ditto for me, 3 gallons and go! Now I know you probably don't want to hear this but, that fills my truck up to about 3/16" above the max full line. And I drive it like that all the way to the next oil change!!! LMAO
 
The ol' Radio Flyer is at 197,725 miles, 3,665 drive hours, and 313 idle hours. Today I performed the 3rd sump filter replacement on the AS69RC, along with 9.5 quarts of Mobil 3309 ATF. As usual.....I got the P0868 code again....shut the truck off, cleared it, and was good to go. Doesn't matter if I start in Park or start in Neutral....I ALWAYS get that code when I drop the pan and remove & replace the sump filter. :mad:
 
Hi guys,
This was the first thread that came up when I googled Aisin filter replacement. I'm on other sites, but registered here to bring up an old thread. My apologies if this info is elsewhere.

I read up on the aisin pan drop and prepared for a big project. As soon as I got a good look at the crossmember, I wondered what all the fuss is about?

I used a 1/4" drive 10mm socket and a 1/4" drive extension. Dont use a deep socket, it wont fit. Connect the socket, then slip it in from the side. The dents in the pan give you room to straighten out the extension to loosen the bolts.

When the bolt comes out, leave it in the socket, tip it a little, and fish it back out the side. I had a magnet handy in case I dropped one, but didn't need it.

When you go to put them back in, be careful not to cross thread. I just lightly turned until a thread caught. Backed off the bolt head and turned it without the socket fully over the bolt, at a slight angle, just to get threads going. If you encounter resistance, back off and try again.

Mine was simple, I had the 4 front bolts out 2 minutes after getting under the truck. I also used a floor jack and block of wood under the pan to avoid spilling, and to keep the gasket lined up until I got bolts in.

Only other tip is a magnetic parts tray stuck upside down under the crossmember. It's a lot easier than feeling around.blind for where you set the bolts.

Hope that helps somebody. Couldnt imagine dropping the crossmember for this.

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On My 2013 without raising the trans you cannot even get a socket between Cross-member and bolt face its like 1/2 of room. No extension is gonna work until the C-member is removed or raised 3/4-1", What year do you have maybe they change the design on the C-Member?
 
This is interesting. Thanks for posting.

Just like TCDiesel's 2013, on my 2014 the cross member is also closer to the pan than shown in your picture by maybe 1/8" to 3/16". While I haven't had to try it yet, I think there may be just enough clearance on my truck to angle a 1/4" drive socket over the rear pan bolts IF using a thin wobble extension which would allow the socket to tilt to get over the bolt head. Either way it's going to be a VERY tight fit!

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I have a 2014, 3500srw megacab with the as69rc. I couldn't fit a socket in straight, but a short socket slipped in from the side works. It's just barely enough room to get the bolt backed out and still get the socket out.

Another option would be a hex driver bit welded to a long Allen wrench. Or you could grind down a 10mm socket to reduce its height, giving more room to back the bolt out before the socket wedges against the crossmember. I'd probably go this route before removing it.
 
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I am just coming up on 30K. Amazon has a 12 pack of Mobil 3309 for $73.28. So if I understand it, that a drain the pan will take 7-8 quarts, that still seems like a good route to go? SNOKING
 
It's been mentioned on here as to getting more fluid out of the trans. Maybe someone can chime in. Popping the line at the radiator did not work like it did on my 68RFE.
 
Mine held 9.5 quarts. I let it drain overnight. I'd start with 7 and see what you get on the dipstick after you start it.
 
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The refill is pretty simple whatever you drained out measure it and add the same back. I know you can get more than 9.5 out just need the secret.
 
I don't have an Aisin. I have an 68rfe. This week Suncoast installed a towing 68 in my '07.5... the installer told me it can take 20 minutes to fill a 68. Aisin is probably the same.
 
On Friday, I returned home from delivering a stack of trailers to Marietta, GA on Thursday, and lucked out and actually picked up a little 20+5 dual tandem gooseneck that needed delivering from Marietta to Greensboro, AL. I finished the Greensboro delivery on Friday and headed straight for home.

Since it was about 1030 pm before I got home, and it was time for another transmission service w/sump filter replacement, I simply got a jump start and gathered up my drain pan and let the Mobil 3309 transmission fluid drain overnight.

This morning I began the task of the sump filter replacement. After completing that task, I measured the transmission fluid that had drained and was pleased to find that 10 quarts had drained out overnight.

As with all of my previous sump filter replacements, I always got the p0868 transmission fluid pressure low code.

Today was unusual as I not only received the p0868 but I also received a p0869---transmission fluid pressure high code. The only thing that I did different was an overnight drain---coupled with a refill on a cold transmission.

In any event---the AS69RC is ready for more work. I am currently at 271,233 miles, 480 idle hours and 5,022 drive hours. My AS69RC has not skipped a beat. It is a great transmission, and, when properly maintained, continues to deliver.

I kinda faltered this last 60k interval, however. Between going over the one 30k drain & fill and then going over the sump filter replacement, I went over this 60k service cumulatively to the tune of 13,508 miles.

After seeing the color & condition of the fluid this servicing, coupled with some of the heavier loads I have been running lately, I am confident no excess wear has taken place.

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