charging the camper batteries?

[DFrank]

Isn't it really the same hook up into the truck whether the isolator sits in under the hood or in the camper?

Seems like moving it just requires longer wires to the isolator.

What am I missing?

 

[AH64ID]

The point is you don't have to mess with the trucks wiring, the voltages earlier show that it moves enough current to do its job.

Putting it in the camper is easier and less work, unless you regularly use multiple trailers you want to isolate with the ignition off.

As mentioned earlier if you want to tie into the trucks batteries in an emergency if the trailer batteries are dead they will drain the truck batteries very quickly. In your case a 4 position (1,2,both,off) battery selector switch would be better than an isolator. 1 (camper batts), 2 (7pin/truck batts), both (for charging or using both), or off.

 

[DFrank]

AH, that sounds ideal. Any suggestions on finding such a switch?

Also can you suggest a good means of running "key hot" power into the camper? I just ground down a ring terminal to put into that 37 fuse spot that was going to work my isolator. It's too bad that the 7 pin isn't equipped with a key on positive circuit.

Picking up all new batteries later today, and would like to dial this in over the next day or two.

Thanks again for the suggestions.

Dave

 

[AH64ID]

What do you need key hot in the camper for?

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/blue-sea-systems-350a-e-series-battery-selector-switch-4-positions

 

[DFrank]

I assume I would still need key hot tin the camper to activate the isolator.

Anyway, how can I really confirm that I need to replace my batts, vs just manage their charge better?


I'm literally removing them for replacement , but the trucks are reading 12.8V and the campers are reading about the same.

Does this imply that they are fully charged, but offer no insight into what capacity is left in them? AS in full for them, but could only have 30% of what full implied when they are new?

I have the idea that I may be about to replace fairly serviceable batteries, just because I kept killing them by not fully charging last week.

 

[AH64ID]

A good isolator is automatic based on voltage.

If you run a switch it's 100% manual.

Some places, like batteries plus, will load test them.

 

[p-Bar]

If you are due for batteries, consider running 6v golf cart batteries in series. Thry have more lead than most deep cycle batteries per that group size.

Costco has the best pricing.

As for gensets a little ome is handy. I can run my little Honda 1k for 6-8 hours on 3/4 gal of fuel. I run a cord out away from the toy hauler and I won't hear it in the trailer. The other option is to run it from the truck bed and most of the noise goes upwards.

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Buy the Trojan brand 6v about a buck twenty a piece, Ya the honda generator is a good route to go

 

[DFrank]

A good isolator is automatic based on voltage.

If you run a switch it's 100% manual.

Some places, like batteries plus, will load test them.

So are there isolators that just function off the voltage change of the alternator spinning?

The one I have has a post that I'll run a wire from a key hot location that will open and close the connection between the RV and the motor's batteries.

So I was just about to go swap my dead engine cores for some high end Dekas, when I read the sticker on the Wally World Ever Starts. It read 3 yr free replacement. I'm at 30 months. I called and they said they needed to test them themselves, of course. Test takes up to an hour and a half each. Any way they called at 745, and said they are bad and will be replaced for free.

I was looking forward to the high end DEkas, but free is pretty good for now.

I'll see what they say about my deep cells (not from there). Might put the money towards the genny after all.

 

[AH64ID]

Take a look at this guy.

http://www.bluesea.com/products/762...rging_Relay_with_Manual_Control_-_12V_DC_500A

 

[DFrank]

That looks ideal, other than the $250 price tag. As nice as that sounds, I'll be using the isolator solenoid that I already own.

It has features that safely allow a genny and your alternator to charge together.

I have no idea how sketchy it would be to have the engine running and then add the genny charging to the coach batteries, but I wouldn't try it without someone experienced saying it was good to go.

 

[AH64ID]

With an isolator solenoid you will be wiring a hot line, somewhere.. or modifying the trucks wiring. It's a lot more work. Amazon, the first and only place I looked, has that relay for $167 shipped.

I would use an oil pressure switch over a key on, that way the batteries are only tied when the engine is running and your not linked to dead batteries in the camper when trying to start (as the good batteries and/or jumper cables will be working to charge the dead batteries).

There would be no reason to run the engine and generator at the same time, waste of fuel. Either method would charge all the batteries.

 

[DFrank]

Damn good point about the oil pressure switch.

with my route, if I do kill the house, I'll try to remember to unplug it before starting the engine.

I'm getting two 6 volt 200+ amp hour batteries. I think killing the house batteries will be a thing of the past.

CAn you recommend a good/easy/cheap way to be able to gauge the power in the house batts?

I can stick a mutli meter into a power port, but its kinda cumbersome.

 

[AH64ID]

There are lots of cheap digital voltmeters on ebay.

I use this one.

http://www.bluesea.com/products/8235/DC_Digital_Voltmeter_-_0_to_60V_DC

#ad

 

[DFrank]

Nice looking unit, not in my income bracket!

Is it aways on, or do you press it for a reading?

I know I can search for it but figured someone might have a done the leg work and have a decent and cheap one that they liked.

 

[AH64ID]

It's always on, but I can dim it or turn it off.

It was a gift from my dad, but now I want the matching ammeter

 

[Bill Stockard]

Nice looking unit, not in my income bracket!

Is it aways on, or do you press it for a reading?

I know I can search for it but figured someone might have a done the leg work and have a decent and cheap one that they liked.

This one may be more in your price range if you have a 12-volt outlet/cigarette lighter in a convenient spot in your RV.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/1224-volt-lcd-voltage-meter/19983

Bill

 

[DFrank]

Love that one Bill. Easy and cheap and functional. Thanks.

projects are done for now.

Free replacement batteries from Wally World installed, and a free charge and test to confirm that my deep cells are healthy. Postponed the 6 V upgrade. Spent $5 on terminal ends and an0other 6 on battery pads and spray. Lots of improvements with next to no outlay.

Recent problems have been caused by insufficient charging, which has been compounded by the dying engine batteries.

Isolator is in with three strands of 12 gauge running from the isolator to the camper battery. Just realized I need to add a beefier ground or it may not even be an improvement. I detached the + wire on the camper's 7 pin connector.

 

[JKosten]

Grounds are just as important as the power cable. Especially since the negitive ions technically are traveling from the negitive plates to the postive plates

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[BDaugherty]

http://www.wirthco.com/battery-isolator-series-p-601-l-en.html
I posted the above isolator in another recent discussion similar to this one. I have used the Battery Doctor battery isolator in my service truck for a few years and it has performed flawlessly. It automatically switches the auxiliary batteries on or off depending on the voltage of the primary batteries. This is great because if you run your aux batts down overnight and then cold start your truck, it allows the primary batts time to charge before tasking the alternator with recharging however many other batts. Also, hookup is simple. You connect a hot wire to each side and a small ground. That's it. There is also a manual override button in case you need to jump off the primary from the aux. I'm sure there are other good options out there, I'm just chiming in with one that I have personally used and can vouch for the quality and function.

 

[Shadrach]

I have used 2 6 volts ( regular wet acid ) in my TT for the last 14 years, each pair lasting me for 7 years. If I could fit 4 I would. One thing to consider is how you hook them up and how you charge them. See this article for details http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html While it applies to more than 2 batteries the principle is the same, Positive cable on one battery and Negative cable on the other battery. When charging them during the off season I do the same, charging them as if they were 1 12 volt. ( I give them 24 hours once a month.) This keeps them evenly charged. During the summer I use solar panels on the roof. I don't recommend using deep cycle as engine batteries. I upgraded my truck to group 31 ( from a Kenworth ) They are taller and required some mods to the case and wiring, but they are 1000 CCA each.