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cheap metal on receiver or ??

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The images below are from a 2021 Ram 3500 with a factory installed class V hitch. According to the "Towing Basics" document put forth by FCA (Fiat Chrysler Automobiles), a Class 5 hitch should be good for 1800Lbs tongue weight.
My Trailer usually scales out at 8800 to 9300 lbs with a tongue weight of between 900 to 1000 lbs depending on the trip.
I'm using a Blue Ox WD hitch. The truck has a little over 20000 miles on it and I would guess that 17500 of that is towing.
Any ideas what could cause the deformation in the receiver? I rarely hear any slack in the hitch when connected. It's deformed enough that I will need to pry the insert out because it won't slide out. It seems to be just on the one side. The pin is original.
Thanks for the feedback.
hitch wear1sm.jpg
hitch wear2sm.jpg
 
Are you using the curved pin or a straight locking pin? The curved pins work themselves up to the hole and can cause unusual wear on the curved side of pin where it contacts the hitch. I've always used the straight pins on my hitches and haven't noticed any wear. JM2C.
 
Are you using the curved pin or a straight locking pin? The curved pins work themselves up to the hole and can cause unusual wear on the curved side of pin where it contacts the hitch. I've always used the straight pins on my hitches and haven't noticed any wear. JM2C.

I'm using a curved pin. This looks pretty significant wear to me. I don't recall seeing anything similar on my previous 2004. I'll get a straight pin, I don't need any more wear. Doers it make sense to look for a anti-rattle hitch coupling clamp tightener as well?

The stinger is the standard straight Blue Ox hitch into the 2.5 adapter. There is some up and down movement with the Blue Ox installed, but I rarely travel with the hitch just flopping out of the back, I remove it at the campsite.
 
Problem with all these adapters is you double the amount of slack in the assembly.
I do not recommend to use them aside for short trips or very light trailer.
 
To be clear, because maybe I'm using the wrong term.
This is the adapter I'm referring to, #5 below. It's standard with the new hitches as you already know.
upload_2022-10-10_16-19-43.png

Aside from buying a new blue ox WD hitch with a 2.5" stinger, I'm stuck with using the adapter, slack or not. It's not in the budget.

I plan on stopping by the dealer for a look see, and let them know that the OEM pin they provided, may be the cause.
 
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I agree, a #8 bolt would work great, it defeats my intent of removal at that campsite or at home. It can be a real pain, literally, when you forget there is an extra 1.5' of hitch at thigh height, that's greasy.
I haven't located a hitch clamp that will fit a 2021 Ram yet.
If you have used one that works, let me know.

Alaska the white frontier
I hope you enjoy the snow.
I hope it snows here, but only in the mountains for next years run off for irrigation!
 
I'm considering what Ozymandias said earlier. Find a shank that is 2.5" and mount the Blue Ox Head on it.
The drop shank at Blue Ox is $295. I'm sure there are others. Combining that with a straight pin, may help with reducing further wear on the hitch. Still need to chat with the dealer though.. I'd like to think that the materials were supposed to handle more use that what I've done.
 
The curved pin is the main culprit, as they did that to my '05's hitch and my '18's hitch. I'm going to try and avoid them on my '22 to save the hitch. I actually replaced the hitch in the '05 because the wear in the pin hole was bad and the opening grew to over 2.25" vertically.

On the '18 I was getting decent wear with or without the adapter sleeve, thou very few miles with the adapter sleeve.

I now have 750 miles towing with the receiver on the '22 using a shouldered pin and no visible wear, 180 of those miles are rough forest service roads that created wear on the '05 and '18 in as few of miles.

I do agree that not using the sleeve is important when possible. If you don't want to buy a new Shank you can have a sleeve welded to the hitch and get the same effect, which I have done on one of my WDH's.
 
@AH64ID Thanks John for the information.
I'm on the hunt for a 2.5" Shank that fits without too much slop, otherwise there won't be much improvement over what's there. Another poster suggested a straight pin, which looks like it would reduce the damage caused by the angle in the pin, but not the overall issue of making the hole oval. If the metal is soft, it will still deform. I'll pass the pin issue by the $tealer to see if they agree the metal is not up to spec. Maybe Dillon will agree.
I had another poster suggest using a shoulder bolt (not all threads), to mount the WD head to the shank. I'll be on the lookout for those as well because I don't remember if that's what's mounting the head now..

I have changed the shank on two different WD Hitches. All manufacturers have them. Yes it's an added expense but worthwhile to me.
The hitch clamp that I use on my truck is from Amazon. It will not work with the sleeve.

Amazon product ASIN B073X6SYMP
Could you repost the link to the Amazon Hitch Clamp? When I click on the link, the top of the list is a fuel filter but no hitch clamps when I scroll down.
Thanks!
 
I have changed the shank on two different WD Hitches. All manufacturers have them. Yes it's an added expense but worthwhile to me.
The hitch clamp that I use on my truck is from Amazon. It will not work with the sleeve.

Amazon product ASIN B073X6SYMP

Before buying, I did some checking on my truck. I do like the idea of the Hitch Clamp (Manufacturer Website), however, in the infinite wisdom of the designers of the RAM hitch, they put huge "ears", or chain loops on the hitch, making the clearance between the bottom of the receiver tube and the gap to the chain loops too small #ad
. I doubt there is a hitch clamp that will fit into such a small gap. I see that your signature shows you have the same truck I do. I presume that you were able to get the hitch clamp onto the receiver without modifying the receiver or the loops?? If I could bug you for a picture of the Hitch clamp in place, I'd appreciate it. I don't see how it would fit.
Thanks
 
Before buying, I did some checking on my truck. I do like the idea of the Hitch Clamp (Manufacturer Website), however, in the infinite wisdom of the designers of the RAM hitch, they put huge "ears", or chain loops on the hitch, making the clearance between the bottom of the receiver tube and the gap to the chain loops too small #ad
. I doubt there is a hitch clamp that will fit into such a small gap. I see that your signature shows you have the same truck I do. I presume that you were able to get the hitch clamp onto the receiver without modifying the receiver or the loops?? If I could bug you for a picture of the Hitch clamp in place, I'd appreciate it. I don't see how it would fit.
Thanks
No modifications for the hitch clamp to fit. I hope these help.
New truck hitch clamp 1.jpg New truck hitch clamp 2.jpg New truck hitch clamp 3.jpg
 
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