Here I am

cheap metal on receiver or ??

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Gas in diesel

rear axel clicking

Status
Not open for further replies.
To me it seems like you would want the ability to push down or up depending on the hitch. Weigh carrying would push down and weight distributing would push down.

When I use an anti-rattle device on my bike carrier behind the 5th wheel I push down so the weight and the anti-rattle work in the same plane.

If one installed the anti-rattle opposite of the main weight force then I could see the tension bolt wearing thru the hitch rapidly.
 
@odinjunior OK, now it's clearer, thanks for the pictures! I had envisioned the "U" Shaped version from the web page. The pictures show exactly why a "U" shaped one won't work, the loops are too close to the receiver.
As mentioned by AH64ID, John, doesn't that put all of the weight of the hitch on the anti-rattle device or more specifically, on the anti-rattle adjustment bolt? Based on the pictures, it looks like it does. If that works for your application, I can't fault it. Thanks for taking the time to get the pictures.

I've ordered a 2.5" Shank from Amazon that is from Blue OX. I tried to get it locally, but the hitch places here wanted $50 to $70 more than the Amazon seller. E-Trailer was about the same cost difference.
I also have a straight pin coming from Amazon as well.
Today, I'll head to the dealer to quiz them about the wear. It should be an interesting conversation.

@Ozymandias Thanks for the link, that looks promising. I'll check it out.

Hmm, I can't seem to get the previous links to Amazon parts to break and not point to obscure unrelated items. Tried the unlink button, with no joy.
 
@odinjunior OK, now it's clearer, thanks for the pictures! I had envisioned the "U" Shaped version from the web page. The pictures show exactly why a "U" shaped one won't work, the loops are too close to the receiver.
As mentioned by AH64ID, John, doesn't that put all of the weight of the hitch on the anti-rattle device or more specifically, on the anti-rattle adjustment bolt? Based on the pictures, it looks like it does. If that works for your application, I can't fault it. Thanks for taking the time to get the pictures.

I have used it on a 5500 mile trip to Pa. and back towing my Toy Hauler. I don't see any noticeable wear..
 
The one that Odin last posted pulls down on the stinger

I'll need to reconsider what I was first imagining of how the forces apply in this case. At first, it appears that the loop of metal around the stinger, was acting as a fulcrum between the adjustment bolt and the block of metal under the stinger causing the block to push up at the same time as the loop is pulling down. Maybe this is why I'm not a mechanical engineer... I have a friend who is that can help explain this to me...


I took my truck by the dealer to have a chat about the issue.
Oddly, one of his first comment was to switch to a 5th wheel trailer.
An interesting response to say the least.

Ultimately, neither he nor the local service manager could make a determination if this was warrantable so he took pictures and will be sending then "on up the line" for others to review.

Warrantable events are cracks in the metal, missing parts or cracks in welds. I was able to produce a CAT weight slip showing the vehicle / hitch was not overloaded for the longest trip I took this summer.

I mentioned to him that if this is the wear I get in 17000 miles of towing, by the time the truck gets to 50k, I'll need to replace the hitch! I didn't know the hitch was to be a consumable.

I've ordered a straight pin and a 2.5" shank as replacements, regardless of the dealer conclusion.

Thanks again for the feedback and sharing your experiences!
 
I took my truck by the dealer to have a chat about the issue.
Oddly, one of his first comment was to switch to a 5th wheel trailer.
An interesting response to say the least.
Sounds like the old deflect and deny strategy! A hitch is made to pull a trailer and the fact that you had a weigh slip was perfect! I'm sure that when you purchased truck, you didn't sign a waiver for the hitch or a statement the the hitch was only light duty! Keep after them, since this is what was provided with the truck and no notice given that the adapter wasn't to be used except with a light utility trailer. The squeaky wheel gets the grease. :rolleyes::D
 
To get max tow rating of the hitch, you have to use a 2.5" shank.

Agreed. There’s not a work-around to the problem that’s not temporary.

The OEM hitch receiver is better than decorative, but it’s primarily a convenience versus a proper hitch receiver:

9096F17B-FBDB-4144-BFCC-7F37B514384E.jpeg


This is a custom-style WD hitch receiver from the good old days. No spare tire to displace. Distance problem from rear axle is “fixed”. (Cross-member & tube end nearest drive axle).

It’s why the dealer popped up with 5er or GN. The OEM (even aftermarket) will still allow the frame rails to flex more than is desirable.

One can fool around with pin shape or sleeves, but for the shank and for the shank receiver one needs to spread the load appropriately. Largest opening, and a receiver which then spreads that load over a larger area of both frame rails using an extended-shank axis such that the load is not concentrated at the very end of the frame rails. (The frame rail ends twist on my KW).

GN & 5’er isn’t superior until the trailer as a load gets fairly high. Location of mount.

Below is how early-ought GM receivers could be braced. The “real” temporary solution isn’t different.
D06E8692-B198-4B49-BDAA-1CA439F60D15.jpeg


TORKLIFT
(someone) has a spare tire kit to mount in the bed. Then, REESE TOWPOWER 45718 given it’s the basis for full-length tube extension and Drive Axle crossmember as with the custom receiver above.

Past this is to cut and re-weld the 2.5” shank to induce some pre-load so the WDH doesn’t have to be cranked as hard.

Get the ball as close as possible.

.
 
Last edited:
yesterday, the new 2.5 shank and the straight pin have arrived. Its actually a Blue OX shank but not at the cost I first saw. I tried to get it locally, but they were still real close to $250. I found an OEM Blue OX shank for $157 on Amazon, and installed the WD Head on in this afternoon.
I checked the trailer tongue weight, still about 880 lbs, before I towed it to the sewer dump station for the last trip of the year. I didn't notice any real difference in towing experience with the new shank. There is still a fair amount of movement, both up and down as well as sideways when it's not connected to the trailer.
I had to knock the 2" to 2.5 " adapter out with a punch, it was jammed in with the bent metal from the deformed hole in the receiver. The holes in the adapter, looked as normal as they did when I purchased the truck, no deformation at all. They were sort of oblong to start with.
I haven't purchased the anti rattle item yet, but will probably get the one that @odinjunior has used, primarily because he and I have the same rig, and he has had good luck so far with it. I chatted with a mechanical engineer friend and he explained where the forces were going with that anti-rattle device.
No word back from the dealer yet about their decisions about warrantying weak metal or???
@slowmover has some good tips, although, I'm not thrilled with the idea of cutting the shank. I'll have to take another look at the shank design to see where the pin might fit if the shank was cut. IF it comes to replacing the hitch later down the line, I'll look for for one that better distributes the load to the frame.
Thanks again for sharing your information and experiences.
 
You can use an anti-rattle device if you like, but you have solved the problem by getting a proper 2.5" shank.
 
I have a 2.5" shank that rattles without the anti-rattle device.

I am not saying that there will be no rattle with a 2.5" shank, I am referring to the damaged hole in his reciever....it is from using a 2" shank and adapter with a heavy-ish trailer. It is not because of added play, it is because of the added leverage forces placed on a pin that is no longer in a sheer scenario. Remember, that adapter is not attached to the shank, nor the hitch, it is basically free floating and providing very little support for the pin. This causes the pin to flex and bend....this wallows out the hole.

When you use a proper 2.5" shank in a 2.5" receiver, the pin is used in a sheer scenario as it should be.
 
short update:
Bought the TRIMAX THC250 anti-rattle clamp, but haven't used it with the RV, only a lightly loaded utility trailer. It works quite well for taking up the slack in the shank. I asked TRIMAX if this was rated for an RV.
Their response was evasive.
"Our manufacturing and procurement manager has advised that the THC200 and THC250 have not been tested for weight ratings as they do not support or pull any weight associated with towing. These anti-rattle clamps hold the hitch insert in place and clamp onto the receiver, but the hitch and receiver support the weight being pulled. "
Maybe I need to ask better questions of them.... We'll see how it goes pulling the RV.
Visited the dealer to check on the response from the RAM gods. Nothing back from them yet.
The service manager interviewed a couple of other owners with newer trucks and found that they are also experiencing the same deformation in the receiver where the pin goes. Coincidence?
 
Last edited:
Nope, it's from using a 2" insert + adapter instead of a 2.5" insert.

While I don’t like using one I don’t think they do as much damage as many people thing. It’s how my brother does all his towing and zero added wear, but he doesn’t use a curved pin either.
 
When I first got my 2015, I had a small 4000 lb (dry weight) camp trailer with a 2" Equalizer hitch, I used my adapter. Two trips with that and my hole wallowed out. I read somewhere online on how the leverage placed on the pin no longer in shear does that. I thought about it and makes sense. My holes have not wallowed out any further having since pulled much heavier trailers using a 2.5" shank insert.
 
When I first got my 2015, I had a small 4000 lb (dry weight) camp trailer with a 2" Equalizer hitch, I used my adapter. Two trips with that and my hole wallowed out. I read somewhere online on how the leverage placed on the pin no longer in shear does that. I thought about it and makes sense. My holes have not wallowed out any further having since pulled much heavier trailers using a 2.5" shank insert.

The pin doesn't care if there is an adapter or not, the same forces are being placed upon it with or without the adapter.

I only ever used a 2.5" shank on my '18 and the hole wallowed out, badly. I only ever used a 2" shank on my '05 and the hole wallowed out. Even the replacement hitch on the '05 (which was a 2.5" shank with a welded sleeve and a extra wear washer for the pin) did some wearing.

Luckily I have not seen any wear on my '22 yet. In the last month I have done 2375 miles of towing with a bumper pull and haven't shown any wear, all with trailers and hitches I used on the '18, the only difference is the pin.

For fun...
538 miles with a 12K GVW Toy Hauler, 106 miles of rough dirt roads (38 miles with 6 pairs of chains installed)
669 miles with a 4K GVW 16' stock trailer, all interstate/highway miles (empty this trailer is low on tongue weight, lots of rattles with or without WDH)
269 miles with a 6K GVW 16' stock trailer, 53 miles of rough dirt roads
269 miles with a 5K GVW 16' stock trailer, 53 miles of rough dirt roads
630 miles with a 9K GVW 16' stock trailer, 106 miles of rough dirt roads (42 miles with 6 pairs of chains installed)

Not saying that adapters aren't bad, as I dislike them for several reasons, I'm just not convinced they are the main culprit for excessive hole wallering.
 
The pin doesn't care if there is an adapter or not, the same forces are being placed upon it with or without the adapter.

But it does care. With the adapter, the pin is no longer used in 'shear' as it now has a 1/4" gap on both sides that applies additional leverage on the pin. My pin was bent from using it with an adapter.
 
But it does care. With the adapter, the pin is no longer used in 'shear' as it now has a 1/4" gap on both sides that applies additional leverage on the pin. My pin was bent from using it with an adapter.

There is enough slop that it's never in shear. It would have to have axial torque on it to be in shear. The pin's force on the receiver is the same with or without the adapter.

I've got bent pins from hitches with no adapter, but they do bent easier with an adapter.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top