i am new to the dodge diesel, just bought a 00' and i am looking for some cheap power, i put in a set of bosch 75hp injectors, remover the x-ring and installed a straight pipe, i was told i could block off the rubber hose that actuates the relief valve on the turbo to get more boost? is this a good idea? does anyone know of any low dollar tricks?
-
TDR Magazine subscribers receive more than the magazine! You also gain additional forum privileges!
Details here: TDR Privileges
Subscribe to TDR Magazine here: https://www.tdr-online.com/
Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) cheap power?!?!
- Thread starter puffincoal
- Start Date
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.
Thanks, TDR Staff
- Status
Look in the classifieds for an Edge EZ... It will make you 
Puff, EZ is quick n easy (no pun intended) they come with an elbow to replace the one comming out of your turbo housing that will do almost the same thing as blocking the tube and the EZ has a boost fooler built into it. You can have a used one every day for around 400. I had one for a while and loved it. Moved up to the Comp after the transmission was done. If your gonna do the clutch eventually then come right on over to the dark side and pick up the comp, just don't hook up the pump wire if you want the stock clutch to live. The comp acts like an EZ and also a boost fooler. Hook up the pump wire and:--)
thanks 4 the input, i checked the classifieds and theres a couple comps in there, i'll get a new clutch and away i go
Guys, come on, he asked for cheap up grades not a $500 fueling box
or a $150 boost module . .
step up to the plate and explain to him how to build his own boost module by blocking off the brass 90 degree elbow and building his own electrical portion for $10 with radio Shack parts.
Puffin coal... by using 2 diodes & a 22k ohm resistor you can make your own boost module. it's very easy. .
remember if you dont understand . . just keeping asking questions.
or a $150 boost module . . step up to the plate and explain to him how to build his own boost module by blocking off the brass 90 degree elbow and building his own electrical portion for $10 with radio Shack parts.
Puffin coal... by using 2 diodes & a 22k ohm resistor you can make your own boost module. it's very easy. .
remember if you dont understand . . just keeping asking questions.
make my own boost mod? please explain this it sound pretty good
Boost Module
He's talking about building your own boost module. You install a resister on the signal wire out of the MAP sensor to decrease the readings by a third.
The brass elbow trick isn't going to do anything for power without more fuel. With the 275 injectors power has been increased possibly 38 hp to the wheels. The other stuff won't improve upon that figure.
He's talking about building your own boost module. You install a resister on the signal wire out of the MAP sensor to decrease the readings by a third.
The brass elbow trick isn't going to do anything for power without more fuel. With the 275 injectors power has been increased possibly 38 hp to the wheels. The other stuff won't improve upon that figure.
diodes
This trick sounds antiquated by todays standards. $400 for an EZ is a cheap upgrade what on our trucks is cheap? Hell mine cost $38 grand just to drive it home stock! HMMM makes you wonder about cheap upgrades. Save you $ up and do what you can when you can we are all a wok in progress
This trick sounds antiquated by todays standards. $400 for an EZ is a cheap upgrade what on our trucks is cheap? Hell mine cost $38 grand just to drive it home stock! HMMM makes you wonder about cheap upgrades. Save you $ up and do what you can when you can we are all a wok in progress
I do not remember who is honored with the credit of figuring out the original boost module/fooler in late '98/early'99.
The only reason this is old hat now is the fact that almost EVERY manufacturer uses this exact setup incorporated in their own fueling boxes.
As we all raced down the horsepower learning curve in early 1999 275Rv injectors & a homemade boost module was the begining stepping stone toward the newly minted phrase B. O. M. B.
Hey old timers, jump in and pull out memories of the things you remember trying... ... ...
The only reason this is old hat now is the fact that almost EVERY manufacturer uses this exact setup incorporated in their own fueling boxes.
As we all raced down the horsepower learning curve in early 1999 275Rv injectors & a homemade boost module was the begining stepping stone toward the newly minted phrase B. O. M. B.
Hey old timers, jump in and pull out memories of the things you remember trying... ... ...
Buy a Duramax and you wont have to upgrade anything, I drove one the other day and there is no comparison!
Old Timers Are Gone
Helio, most of the early birds flew the coop. They be gone
A quick story:
When I got my first boost module I found that under full blown acceleration I got a check engine light. The boost module was supposed to prevent that from happening.
As it turns out, the boost module had a resister that would correct 30 or so psi of boost to read 20 to the ECM. Difference was, I was making 45 psi which when depriciated by 33% was still too high for the ECM and so I got a light etc.
Always ahead of my time
Helio, most of the early birds flew the coop. They be gone
A quick story:
When I got my first boost module I found that under full blown acceleration I got a check engine light. The boost module was supposed to prevent that from happening.
As it turns out, the boost module had a resister that would correct 30 or so psi of boost to read 20 to the ECM. Difference was, I was making 45 psi which when depriciated by 33% was still too high for the ECM and so I got a light etc.
Always ahead of my time
Boost fooler
Could someone post the schematic for the resistor/diode circuit?
Also, if I plug the elbow, thus disabling the wastegate, won't I damage the turbo if it somehow managed to overboost? If not, why even have a wastegate if the ECM defuels anyway? Perhaps it's better to drill a small hole in the elbow? I know... questions, questions.
BTW, I'm not looking for more power with a fooler, I'm getting setup for injectors.
Jim
Could someone post the schematic for the resistor/diode circuit?
Also, if I plug the elbow, thus disabling the wastegate, won't I damage the turbo if it somehow managed to overboost? If not, why even have a wastegate if the ECM defuels anyway? Perhaps it's better to drill a small hole in the elbow? I know... questions, questions.
BTW, I'm not looking for more power with a fooler, I'm getting setup for injectors.
Jim
I'm not quite as "old" as HVAC, but ...
When I first added my 275 injectors (oh so long ago), I and another member, 243, tested out a homemade boost module. I can't take all the credit for it - Articat (sp?) worked on the same principle a little before I did, and helped me. It consisted of a cheap pressure regulator (<$20) and some fittings and hose. Connected the regulator upstream of the MAP sensor "backwards" - i. e. , in line to regulate the pressure in the manifold. As boost increased, it would close at 20psi (set regulator on a test bench at work), and hold the MAP sensor side pressure at 20psi as the manifold pressure actually continued increasing. Then when boost dropped below 20psi it would open and the MAP sensor would see the actual boost again. This worked very well for me and him (and several others) until the quest for more power sent us to Edge boxes (via HVAC, of course). Nowel's and my experience of whether or not it will gain you anything with just 275's is different, but his experience was with the electrical version vs. mine with the regulator version. I think the difference may be self explanatory if you read Nowel's post. The older electrical versions just reduced the signal by X amount, so with just 275's the boost never got up to 30psi or 35psi or whatever the module was designed to use as max boost. So the ECM would see less than what it considered max boost, and the ECM uses boost, along with other variables, to determine fueling. With the regulator, the ECM saw max boost anytime you were at 20psi or greater of boost. 243 and I both saw about an increase in power approximately equivalent to adding just the 275's alone (measured on my automatic by 0-60 time and on his 5 speed by 1500rpm to 3000rpm time in 4th gear). Seat of the pants feel was minor, just like adding the 275's - looking back I know I would never go through all that again - not worth it, just get a box!
When I first added my 275 injectors (oh so long ago), I and another member, 243, tested out a homemade boost module. I can't take all the credit for it - Articat (sp?) worked on the same principle a little before I did, and helped me. It consisted of a cheap pressure regulator (<$20) and some fittings and hose. Connected the regulator upstream of the MAP sensor "backwards" - i. e. , in line to regulate the pressure in the manifold. As boost increased, it would close at 20psi (set regulator on a test bench at work), and hold the MAP sensor side pressure at 20psi as the manifold pressure actually continued increasing. Then when boost dropped below 20psi it would open and the MAP sensor would see the actual boost again. This worked very well for me and him (and several others) until the quest for more power sent us to Edge boxes (via HVAC, of course). Nowel's and my experience of whether or not it will gain you anything with just 275's is different, but his experience was with the electrical version vs. mine with the regulator version. I think the difference may be self explanatory if you read Nowel's post. The older electrical versions just reduced the signal by X amount, so with just 275's the boost never got up to 30psi or 35psi or whatever the module was designed to use as max boost. So the ECM would see less than what it considered max boost, and the ECM uses boost, along with other variables, to determine fueling. With the regulator, the ECM saw max boost anytime you were at 20psi or greater of boost. 243 and I both saw about an increase in power approximately equivalent to adding just the 275's alone (measured on my automatic by 0-60 time and on his 5 speed by 1500rpm to 3000rpm time in 4th gear). Seat of the pants feel was minor, just like adding the 275's - looking back I know I would never go through all that again - not worth it, just get a box!
DuraCrap
If anyone on here wanted a Duramax I would cry like a baby! There is a reason we spend all our spare time on the best dang web site in the world, talking about the best dang trucks in the world!!!! The reason you dont upgrade a Duramax is cause propane and nitrous are the only mods... hahahahahaha
If anyone on here wanted a Duramax I would cry like a baby! There is a reason we spend all our spare time on the best dang web site in the world, talking about the best dang trucks in the world!!!! The reason you dont upgrade a Duramax is cause propane and nitrous are the only mods... hahahahahaha
Re: Re: DuraCrap
Originally posted by pnwradar
I guess those guys at DD are wasting their time, then?
YES! It was a joke
HVAC your are correct in many aspects.
including many of the earlier members to be long gone from this board
The $10 boost module that has now become passe still works extremely well with 275RV's. no gauges are needed,exhaust stays well below normal. boost will never exceed 32 psi with the HX-35 turbo. And midrange hp & torque is enhanced.
no check engine light is set with this combo.
As i look back over the years this is a very inexpensive method for power enhancement.
including many of the earlier members to be long gone from this board
The $10 boost module that has now become passe still works extremely well with 275RV's. no gauges are needed,exhaust stays well below normal. boost will never exceed 32 psi with the HX-35 turbo. And midrange hp & torque is enhanced.
no check engine light is set with this combo.
As i look back over the years this is a very inexpensive method for power enhancement.
Last edited:
In my opinion 
The absolute best bang for the buck, is a reflashed ECM, boost module, & 275RV's. Oo.
But hey what do i know i still burn waste veggie oil,contaminated jet fuel & used motor oil... ... ... ...
The absolute best bang for the buck, is a reflashed ECM, boost module, & 275RV's. Oo. But hey what do i know
i still burn waste veggie oil,contaminated jet fuel & used motor oil... ... ... ...
Last edited:
- Status
Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
Turbo Diesel Register
Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
