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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Checking Control Arms

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Is there a best way to determine if the control arm bushings are shot? I looked under the truck at the bushings but I cannot tell if the bushings are cracked or not.
 
It is pretty hard to see in there to tell if they are shot, I had to change the control arm bushings on my old Dakota, I noticed a knocking when I would hit bumps, I took off the front wheels and unbolted the control arms from the frame mounts and saw that the rubber was almost gone, but I tried like hell and could not get them off, I put it all back to together and to it to my mechanic. He told me the only way to get them out and the new ones in was with a press and he had to take the control arms completely off the truck. The bushings were cheap and the mechanic only charged me about $100 to do the work.
 
Wait a second, I just saw that you have a 4X4, if you have a solid front axle there is no control arms, is this on a different truck?
 
My bad, I had a total brain fart. I got A arms and control arms confused, looks like you could get the control arms off pretty easy and give it a go yourself, but they may be pressed in which will make it a tough task without a press.
 
My bad, I had a total brain fart. I got A arms and control arms confused, looks like you could get the control arms off pretty easy and give it a go yourself, but they may be pressed in which will make it a tough task without a press.
When I replaced the control arm bushings in my 97 4X4 the ones from Energy Suspension had me re-use the bushing steel casing/housing. I had to heat up the control arm (removed from truck) till the bushing sizzled and shot out the the arm. Then I cleaned it up and inserted the ploy bushings in with the supplied silicone grease. They just slid in.



It seems to me it depended on the year of truck whether the bushings came with the steel casing or not. In that case they would need pressed in or out. I could not tell if mine were bad or not either so I just replaced them to eliminate them as a concern. Even if the rubber busing has cracks that does not mean they are bad, since rubber will crack with age.



Dave
 
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I could not tell if mine were bad or not either so I just replaced them to eliminate them as a concern. Even if the rubber busing has cracks that does not mean they are bad, since rubber will crack with age.



Dave[/QUOTE]



I am leaning towards replacing them as that should almost complete the front end rebuild (ball joints only thing left). I looked at energy suspensions and their cross reference chart states that I would have to reuse a metal sleeve currently in the bushings. Can I press these type out if I am going to reuse this sleeve?
 
Kaptchinskie said:
I am leaning towards replacing them as that should almost complete the front end rebuild (ball joints only thing left). I looked at energy suspensions and their cross reference chart states that I would have to reuse a metal sleeve currently in the bushings. Can I press these type out if I am going to reuse this sleeve?
If you search on their web site (as I did when I did mine last year) it will tell (in a side note I believe that was hard to find) you must re-use the shells and it will tell you to heat up the end of the control arm till they pop out. They can fly about 5 feet so watch out. I used a propane torch and it took 3 minutes or so till the rubber began to sizzle and then it would fly out like a missle... cool!



I then took as cotton shop rag or paper towel (with thick gloves on) and wiped out the residue and when they cooled inserted the new bushings. It really was not hard to do. I jacked up the The body underneath the front doors and the front axle and then removed all the control arms.



Edit: Just to make sure you understand what must be done, if you have to re-use the shell, then you must leave the pressed in metal shell in and remove just the rubber bushing by heating the arm till the rubber bushing flys out of the shell. Then (after it's cooled) you put silicone grease on the new bushing and slid it into the old metal shell which is still pressed into the old arm. If you get new shells with the bushings then you must have the old shells/bushing pressed out and the new shell/bushing pressed in.



Dave
 
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