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Cleaning Fuel Tank

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I just purchased this truck and had to imediatly put new injectors in it. I pulled the fuel filter and found metalic and non metalic particles in the filter housing when i drained it. I do need to put some kind of filter on the tank air vent but when i do i figure i will go ahead and drop the tank and some how clean it. Anyone have suggestions or experiences for doing this?
 
If you have metal in the filter housing most likely the CP3 and the lift pump are coming apart. Drop the tank and clean it completely. Clean the lift pump as best you can, there should be metal in the screen down in the sump. Blow out the lines, clean the filter housing, remove the rail and clean it as best you can, blow out all lines, install new filter.

Put some clean fuel in and drive it a hundred miles or so. Remove the filter and inspect the housing with a bright light looking for metal. If you see any at all you have trouble that needs to be corrected before you ruin the new injectors.
 
Is it difficult to drop the tank, are the fuel lines long enough to make it to the ground or do i disconnect everything as i start lowering it. I have not yet purchased any fuel pressure gages so i can not tell if things are getting weak.

How do guys usually get in the tank and clean them? just use some rags on a pole and go through the fuel pump access?

Thanks

CH
 
Before you start this make sure tank is almost
empty. Very heavy with fuel in.
The inlet hose and over flow hose need to
be disconnected. Electrical plugs on fuel
canister need to be disconnected. the 2
straps holding tank in place. It would be
quicker to pull the truck box. Ground straps from box to cab.
Filler and over flow hose.
Unplug tail lights.
8 bed bolts.
For me it is quicker to pull bed.
There is a steel ring holding fuel canister in,
tap until pops off. pull canister and clean with rags.
 
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I dropped my tank to install the fuel tank vent kit. I loosened the straps which made it easy to get my little monkey hands on top of the tank to disconnect the connections. As far as getting the tank down low, when the DTE indicator says 0, keep driving. I drove about 20 miles after it said 0, and it still had at least a gallon in there once it was dropped.

I'm going to have it out again to install the in tank pump. I'm not looking forward to it, but it's not that difficult a task.

Edit: Here are the instructions for the FTV kit I used. Pics helped. http://www.innertruck.com/my_files/uploads/FTVK_Instructions___4_3_09.pdf
 
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Thanks, i am thinking i can use a transmission jack to drop the tank, going to be doing this alone so removing the bed could be a little interesting to tackle with installed tool box and hitch. I will hopefully post pictures of what i find in the tank.



Anouther question, if the cp3 is shelling and causing the metalic filings where does the return fuel go, i saw there are two return lines and i wonder if those make it back to the filter or are if they go straight back to supply the CP3. When does fuel go back to the tank?

I am doing all of this to figure out the knock (sounds like a timing knock)i get a low rpm's befor the truck boosts. I know i have something in the filters so this is where i figure i would start (high milage truck needs clean fuel anyways).
 
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There are two (three actually) fuel returns, one directly off the CP3 and the other off the injectors that routes to the back of the head and meets up with the CP3 return (and the POV) at the filter housing before heading back to the tank where it drops directly into the pickup cup on the lift pump. You can capture the return off the CP3 and then inspect for metal if you catch enough in a very clean clear container. That's why I suggested you inspect the filter housing after driving it a short time as the heavy stuff will collect there. Also a magnet works for collecting the stuff you can't hardly see.
 
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