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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Clutch Hydraulic System

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Clutch Hydraulic System HELP !!!!!!

A while back my fluid reservoir was empty so I filled it up. In the last couple of weeks my truck has started a intermitten no start thing. Well today I tracked it down to the Neutral Start Switch. In my repair manual it says the switch and the Clutch Hydraulic System is one piece. I probably already know the answer with the fluid being empty but is there any other option besides replacing the whole unit?
 
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Neibe said:
Is anybody out there?

Not quite sure what you mean, the clutch pedal starter interrupt switch has no relavence as to whether the master cylinder works or not. It is mearly a contact switch on the armature that when the pedal is pushed to the floor, it connects a circuit. The hydraulic pressure has nothing to do with whether the circuit makes contact or not so long as the pedal bottoms out, it will start. Not good if you suddenly loose your hydraulic clutch and you're nose up against another car or immovable object. My hydraulic clutch on my '94 went out on me in the garage, drove right into my bench before I could process what was happening. Obviously it started right up in 2nd gear. :confused:
 
I should have been more specific my truck has a intermitten starting problem traced back to the clutch switch. It also has a leak in the hydraulic clutch system my repair manual says to replace the entire unit for either condition however the wo are not related. The hydraulic pressure doesn't have to build to trigger the switch you are correct. I was wondering what anyone else did that found a cheaperr solution.
 
Depending if the master or slave is leaking. . LUK offers a replacement unit and napa offers ala carte pieces. . do a search for part numbers. . You will have to "bleed" it for it to work properly.



The dealer has come down in price on this item (combo unit) so it might be most simple to ante up and just buy it, then you don't waste a Sat. jacking around to put a band-aid where a suture is necessary. Okay my . 02 ;)



For testing purposes put a jumper accross the safety switch and see if the problem remains, I bet it does.



I would look at the starter contacts (solenoid on the starter). . requires starter removal. Many vendors sell contacts and a plunger in a "service kit. " If you can't find any send me a PM.



Also the blue fusable link on the DS battery pos. term. The fuel shutdown solenoid and relay (mounted on firewall above the Fuel filter).





Good luck.



Andy
 
My Haynes Manual told me to run a jumper from the battery to the starter and if the starter works it is not the solenoid or the starter. I checked all the relays ,the ignition switch both batteries. The only thing I didn't check was the clutch switch.
 
Neibe said:
My Haynes Manual told me to run a jumper from the battery to the starter and if the starter works it is not the solenoid or the starter. I checked all the relays ,the ignition switch both batteries. The only thing I didn't check was the clutch switch.

clutch switch is easy, you can jump the circuit. If the problem is intermittent, I would leave the jumper in place for a few days before replacing the clutch switch. This will help you identify if you have a short somewhere before buying the switch which may not be the problem. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT LEND THE TRUCK TO SOMEONE WITH IT BYPASSED. I personally can think of no reason anyone would try to start the truck without having their foot on the pedal, but dumber things have happened.

The hydraulic side of the clutch issue is best addressed with dealer only parts, preferably in a single or two piece pre bled unit. If you get half the set, either the master or the slave, you'll most likely have the other end go out soon after, just the luck of the draw. It will save you money and frustration in the long run. I hate bleeding them out, always seems to be a little more air to get out.
 
You likely have a molded connector that plugs into the switch, remove the connector and put a wire between the terminals (you now have a circuit).



Please return the switch to service once you validate its condition, our motors have mucho torq. and you could drive thru the garage into someone etc.



How many miles does the truck have? Do you know if the starter contacts have been serviced? Starter contacts can cause an intermittant no start then just no start condition.



Bet that's your problem. .



Let us know what you find

Andy
 
Well Thanks guys it turns out it was the starter. Got 160,000 out of the original due to time constraints I went to NAPA and got a Reman one. Today at work it almost didn't start it took alot of trying. All the Ford guys were watching cause I'm always laughing at them when they have all the trouble in the winter starting their trucks. Took me about an hour to get the old one out and new one in it was pretty easy. You guys are great.
 
Neibe said:
Well Thanks guys it turns out it was the starter. Got 160,000 out of the original due to time constraints I went to NAPA and got a Reman one. Today at work it almost didn't start it took alot of trying. All the Ford guys were watching cause I'm always laughing at them when they have all the trouble in the winter starting their trucks. Took me about an hour to get the old one out and new one in it was pretty easy. You guys are great.



If you haven't turned in your old one for warranty yet, I would hold on to it. I highgly doubt the starter is bad, most likely the contacts that arced out in it. Easy fix. Some of the NAPA stuff is good, but just as much is HECHO EN MEXICO these days. If you want reliability to continue, order the start contacts from Geno's or similar source. I have had the same starter for 250,000 miles, the 94 and newer starters seem to be just as long in life as the engines. Give the truck a few weeks with the new starter before you turn the old one in, you'll be happy you did. Especially since you can make NAPA take it back and tell them it died already. Dodge dealers and authorized cummins parts centers are the only place I pick up accessory parts from.
 
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