Colder A/C in under 25 min?????

[goodguys75]

I saw this on another web site, just happened to stumble upon it..... anyone try this... living in Vegas, i would love to get colder A/C here is the link ... ... http://www.dieselbombers.com/dodge-.../29176-3rd-gen-tech-colder-ac-under-25-a.html

 

[JJPage]

Some members on DTR/CF were doing it a couple of years back. My AC works fine in my area so never considered it. Now if I were where you are gg75, maybe I might give it a whirl.

 

[goodguys75]

i just thought, how they posted as the best thing you can do, and have never heard about it on this side... . maybe its not a good idea... or maybe it is... just want a little feedback from anyone who has done it... thanks for yours jjpage

 

[EDankievitch]

JUst have to ask why wouldn't you remove the fiting from the head install a nipple and the valve then go to the hose barb? valve would be supported and hose not needed to be cut. just a thought...

 

[JR]

JUst have to ask why wouldn't you remove the fiting from the head install a nipple and the valve then go to the hose barb? valve would be supported and hose not needed to be cut. just a thought...

Going one step further, I installed a 1/2" street 90 coming directly out of the head then to a hose barb. This gives more clearance to remove the valve cover than the stock configuration, without removing the hose and spilling coolant everywhere. So if you do away with the fitting coming out of the head, install a street 90 in its place, close nipple, valve, then come out of the valve with a hose barb and then the hose. You may or may not have to trim a touch off the hose, but like your saying at least the valve will be supported and it also makes it easier to swing the valve cover over to that side when removing it.



When I did this I already had the valve cover removed doing injectors, so Im not sure if you could screw in a 90 with the valve cover in place or not. Worst case scenario you may have to take the valve cover loose and slide it towards the driver side a little to screw the 90 in and then put the cover back on. A little extra work, but well worth it because you dont have to screw with that hose everytime you get in to the valve cover for something.

 

[JHumphries]

I believe the 6. 7 guys are a little less lucky as the turbo is water cooled from the same line. Just be careful and pay attention to the guzins and guzouts.

 

[Can't get right]

For 25 bucks, it's worth a shot. If it doesn't work, meh you haven't lost much. Mine does great but this could be worth a try at least.

 

[JDiehl]

I did this mod on my 06 mega cab.

It did make the A/C feel colder. Mostly colder during idle.

High Idle along with the quarter turn valve was the ticket during hot summer days.

 

[B.G. Smith]

Looks like on my truck that the water out from the heater core goes to the transmission oil cooler. I would be concerned about the lack of flow through the heater/cooler long term causing spot corrosion. bg

 

[JDiehl]

Looks like on my truck that the water out from the heater core goes to the transmission oil cooler. I would be concerned about the lack of flow through the heater/cooler long term causing spot corrosion. bg

I had the G56 trans. and only had the valve closed for a few months out of the year.



There is also a thread on cummins forum covering the same topic with alot of information.

 

[mwilson]

Looks like on my truck that the water out from the heater core goes to the transmission oil cooler. I would be concerned about the lack of flow through the heater/cooler long term causing spot corrosion. bg

I had the same thought, but I studied the plumbing and I think it will be fine. I am on an i-pad right now but when I get home to the laptop I will post the plumbing schematic for the automatic trucks.



Mike.

 

[JR]

I'm sure there is a difference between the 2nd and 3rd gens but on my 98 the return from the heater core tees into the heat exchanger line right at the outlet of the water pump and the other line from the exchanger goes into the block at the front of the engine. I always assumed the line coming out of the head was the supply to the heater core, but in looking at the placement of the other line coming directly off the water pump it seems more logical that would be the supply. Strange.

 

[Motorhead]

Why not this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOUR-SEASON...Parts_Accessories&hash=item51acdf37e6&vxp=mtr
Or this where you screw it directly into the head:http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOUR-SEASON...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3ed95c91&vxp=mtr
Or this where you could have a cable pull in the cab incase you needed it and didn't want to get under the hood and try to turn on a HOT valve:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heater-Valv...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6e971ad4&vxp=mtr

 

[JHumphries]

That cable operated one will probably be what I install. The temperature swings up here are enough to occasionally need heat followed by cool.

 

[mwilson]

I had the same thought, but I studied the plumbing and I think it will be fine. I am on an i-pad right now but when I get home to the laptop I will post the plumbing schematic for the automatic trucks.

Mike.

Here are the heater tubes that are supplied by Cummins for RAM 3RD Gen Automatic trucks with the 5. 9 engine, I don't see a flow issue if you close the heater loop, the coolant will still flow through the heat exchanger and flow to the left side of the block.

I have NOT researched the 6. 7 plumbing yet.

I'm not too good with paint but I think that I have shown it ok.

Mike.

 

[rMetzger]

OK, so I'm adding a small piece to an old thread. Here goes.

1. soaked floorboards... . easiest way to tell if coolant or condensation, is it glowing green or clear?

2. for prevention of heater-core stagnation, would there really be anything wrong with cranking the ball-valve down to about 5-10% and leaving it that way?... The hot-water flow would be greatly diminished, but, there'd be enough circulation to prevent stagnation. Instead of a 14*F reduction, maybe you'd see 12 or 13, instead, but, without the worry.

 

[Motorhead]

In My opinion, Why would you worry about stagnation of the coolant in the heater core if you had a regularly serviced cooling system? Besides, you would be opening the valve every winter or if you used a cable pull type valve, you could open it up periodically through the year. MY $0. 02

 

[JR]

I would bet if the return line down low is left open the coolant will slowly mix over time through convection.

Probably not a big deal at all if the valve is only closed of a few months a year.

 

[gtobey]

Fix for colder A/C and keeping proper cooling to rear cylinders

Here's the fix for my 2006 Mega Cab which I installed when I fixed the faulty recirculation door, redesigned and replaced the blend doors, and installed physical stops in the heater box. I had to remove the entire dash, so while in there, I found an electric powered heater control valve with 5/8" heater connections. To correct the problem of the missing Heater Control Valve, I researched the web and found a four port electronic heater control valve, model 354-69494, with 5/8" ports from a company named Thermotion, in Mentor, Ohio. In the picture you'll see I installed it with silicone heater hose. The valve is to the left being temporarily held up with a wire tie until I get to make a mounting bracket for it.



This valve is designed specifically for this sort of application, and they further recommend that it could be used in an HVAC system without any blend air temperature doors. It comes complete with an integral position feedback potentiometer so that it could communicate its position to a temperature computer and work without blend doors. But for my application, I would not need to connect anything to the potentiometer connections. Thermotion did install an optional voltage dropping resistor in the motor power connections to the protect the motor if it receives power all the time. Having that resistor provided me several wiring options and I could consider each before deciding how I wanted it to operate in this system.



Thermotion explained to me that this actuator is not waterproof, as it is not in a sealed housing that would prevent water from getting into the actuator. However, mounting it properly under the hood should provide some degree protection if it is mounted in a way to not encourage the intake of water. In this application, the valve would be high up under the hood near the passenger side battery, which was certainly high enough to avoid direct water ingestion, and it was tilted slightly during mounting so any water would not travel down the actuator shaft into the motor. I used a double-pole/double-throw illuminated, 3-position rocker switch with a center-off position to power the valve. I could power the valve to provide coolant to the heater core, and turn the switch off once the actuator reached the end of its travel, and vice-versa to block coolant to the heater core for max A/C cooling, right from the driver's seat.



With the Edge Insight, I can tell if the engine temperature changes with the valve open or closed, and it doesn't. I know that the proper coolant flow will be provided to the rear of the cylinder head even while towing! Works great.



Here is their web address: http://www.thermotion.com/default.aspx

 

[goodguys75]

I bought the ball valve and the clamps... going to give it a try... . here in Vegas any neg lowering of a/c temp it a great thing, especially in a mega... ..... unless you are on the hwy, the a/c is bad... ...