Colder A/C in under 25 min?????

[sag2]

Stupid idea, before spending anything and cutting hoses, clamp off the hose and see if there is a temp reduction. If yes, buy the parts, if no, remove the clamp.

 

[gtobey]

Stupid idea, before spending anything and cutting hoses, clamp off the hose and see if there is a temp reduction. If yes, buy the parts, if no, remove the clamp.

I don't believe any idea to be stupid if it is a way to fix a problem. If I don't agree with the premise, then I don't have to try that fix. But the exchange of information and unique ideas is what the TDR is all about.



Your suggestion is good procedure to use to see if there is in fact a solution in shutting off the coolant to the heater. But it could create a new issue by blocking proper coolant flow and creating a hot spot in the cylinder head. I knew what would fix mine because I had removed the entire dash and the heater/AC box from my truck, and analyzed the design of the system. So I did not need to clamp off a hose to see what it would do.



Our Mega Cabs do not have the capacity to cool down the big cab that quickly. Anything we can do to provide colder air from the vents only increases the comfort. I fully understand what it feels like in Vegas, and especially in Mississippi in the humid summertime. Take good care!

 

[gtobey]

You are so right, goodguys75, about anything to help speed the cooling of the cab. If you did just stop-n-go in one of these things, you might as well leave the A/C off... .



Hope your fix works good for you! Take good care!

 

[goodguys75]

Stupid idea, before spending anything and cutting hoses, clamp off the hose and see if there is a temp reduction. If yes, buy the parts, if no, remove the clamp.

there are several people who have done this mod, and have been satisfied with the temp reduction, what makes it a stupid ideal ( please explain )... . If it is good enough i wont try... that is why i brought this up to get input on if it is worth doing... ...

 

[goodguys75]

You are so right, goodguys75, about anything to help speed the cooling of the cab. If you did just stop-n-go in one of these things, you might as well leave the A/C off... .

Hope your fix works good for you! Take good care!

that's why i why im eager to try this... 10 deg in traffic can make a huge difference here... ... and if it don't work, i buy a new hose and go back to stock... . no big deal, thanks for the input... . gtobey

 

[JJPage]

that's why i why im eager to try this... 10 deg in traffic can make a huge difference here... ... and if it don't work, i buy a new hose and go back to stock... . no big deal, thanks for the input... . gtobey

gg, if you have a needle nose vice grip pliers, why not just clamp it off, to see the results before draining coolant and cutting your coolant line? Sounds reasonable to me, then if it actually makes a difference, proceed. Jess

 

[mwilson]

gg, if you have a needle nose vice grip pliers, why not just clamp it off, to see the results before draining coolant and cutting your coolant line? Sounds reasonable to me, then if it actually makes a difference, proceed. Jess

Yes, a simple test before anything gets molested.

I am considering doing the same as my Mega's A/C at full charge is barely adequate at best.

We cannot tint our windows in Maine any darker than factory without risking a fail on the annual inspections so the Mega is equal to driving an AMC Pacer (glass fishbowl) under the hot sun.



Do the test fairly, truck at operating temp with Max A/C selected. Use an Infared Thermometer if you have one or can borrow one.

Let the dash outlet temp bottom out and stabilize and then clamp one of the heater hoses off. See what happens.

To me any decrease in the temp would be worth it. Clamping the hose off won't hurt anything, but be gentle clamping it. You only need to stop the flow and you can verify it by using that same thermometer to verify the hose temps before and after clamping.



The majority of trucks still use manual shut-offs right from the factory and they are on both the pressure and return line. But those valves are there for two reasons, 1st being to aid A/C efficiency in hot weather and 2nd the ability to isolate that coolant loop and keep on trucking in the event of a heater core or line failure.



Western Star Day Cab (Item 8 in two locations)

Coronado Day Cab (Item 17 in two locations) (Item 26 is new, that is a 5 port coolant junction block)

Mike.

 

[seafish]

Just to step in, for those of you drive in extremely hot climates with your barely adequate dodge ac system, I have recently read a thread on another forum (sorry can't find it right now) on how more then several people have added a slim line 16" fan (or one guy added twin smaller fans) to the front of their condensor, pushing air through it. Depending on what they wanted, they either wired the fan to come on with a relay of the ac clutch circuit, or manually with a toggle switch. ALL of the people who did the mod reported faster, cooler ac. I'll try to find a link if you guys are interested.

 

[JR]

Note the low profile compared to the valve cover. This was a schedule 80 street 90 so its even bigger than a schedule 40. Since the valve cover has to go towards the passenger side before it comes off, this gives you more room to work with. You could come right out of the 90 with a valve of your choice, and everything stays nice and low.
Just a thought...

 

[sag2]

Wasn't clear I guess. I'm not saying it is a stupid idea, just saying you can test the fix in 10 seconds for free by clamping off the hose. If doing that convinces you it works, spend the money and install the shut off, or just leave the hose pinched shut.

 

[EricBu12]

has anyone tried it on the 6. 7?. . is there a way to loop the coolant to the turbo when the heater core is Off?

 

[JHumphries]

has anyone tried it on the 6. 7?. . is there a way to loop the coolant to the turbo when the heater core is Off?

There's always a way.
It's just going to take a few more valves. and some "t"s.

Maybe our one-winged MWilson can pull up some pictures. I sifted through QuickServe, but couldn't find it.

 

[jwduke]

If it is such a stupid idea, why does my Kenworth day cab have a valve for both the inlet & outlet coolant lines going to the heater core? It makes the a/c where u can't stand it with the blower on high & in recirculate, especially a cloudy say. It makes one hellva difference on the a/c in my truck. I think a person may one a valve on BOTH hoses, but I could be wrong.

 

[seafish]

If it is such a stupid idea, why does my Kenworth day cab have a valve for both the inlet & outlet coolant lines going to the heater core? It makes the a/c where u can't stand it with the blower on high & in recirculate, especially a cloudy say. It makes one hellva difference on the a/c in my truck. I think a person may one a valve on BOTH hoses, but I could be wrong.

jwduke, no big deal, but read post #30 above... sag2 clarified that what he meant was to CHECK and see if it works by simply clamping off the hose before spending money on the mod. Even in his original post #21 , I easily recognized that he was likely refering sarcastically to HIS idea of first checking as the stupid idea, but I came to that conclusion by knowing his posts are always helpful and relatively modest, not troll like. Anyway, just wanted to clarify... .

 

[NIsaacs]

There's always a way.

It's just going to take a few more valves. and some "t"s.

I don't see anything wrong with shuting off the flow..... just be careful in your modification and make sure you use the OEM barb nipple on the inlet side, it has a built in restriction so you don't over power the heater core with too much volume/pressure.



Nick

 

[leaky gasket]

I have done this very same mod on a few trucks and some cars . And for me it is always work Well with the result of lower cabin temperatures. I personally think if you do it you will be happy with the results. They're not over-the-top but in Vegas every little bit helps.
M Wilson, Look into tenting with UV blocking It helps take the edge off. I have it installed on my driver and passenger window with a two or three tent scale. It's barely discernible and you can't even tell there is tenting on the windows. If you're serious look for a commercial quality like something they would use on high-rise buildings when it comes to tenting or you get what you pay for.

 

[jwduke]

jwduke, no big deal, but read post #30 above... sag2 clarified that what he meant was to CHECK and see if it works by simply clamping off the hose before spending money on the mod. Even in his original post #21 , I easily recognized that he was likely refering sarcastically to HIS idea of first checking as the stupid idea, but I came to that conclusion by knowing his posts are always helpful and relatively modest, not troll like. Anyway, just wanted to clarify... .

I did re-read it, and I do have to agree. So thanks for bringing this to my attention.

 

[JHumphries]

I don't see anything wrong with shuting off the flow..... just be careful in your modification and make sure you use the OEM barb nipple on the inlet side, it has a built in restriction so you don't over power the heater core with too much volume/pressure.

Nick

The problem with blocking the flow on a 6. 7 is the turbo water feed line is the same as the heater core line. If you shut off flow completely, you can/will cook the turbo. I believe they are connected in series. I don't remember though.
One of the AC rebuild threads talked about it, but I can't find it now.

 

[mwilson]

There's always a way.

It's just going to take a few more valves. and some "t"s.



Maybe our one-winged MWilson can pull up some pictures. I sifted through QuickServe, but couldn't find it.

I'm baaaaack... ... .



Ok, here is what I have found in regards to the 3rd gen 6. 7 heater feed lines.



I want to stress that the transmission cooler / heat exchanger is NOT supplied by Cummins from what I can see so I need to do some digging on the RAM side of things.



Using Harvey's truck and engine for show and tell this is what I see...



Heater Plumbing. .

Turbo Oil And Water Plumbing...

EGR Water Plumbing... .

I don't see anything in series involving the heater pipe for the components shown above, there is no "Y" in the heater pipe like the 5. 9 autos and the block fitting is in the same place.

Only wild card is the transmission cooler, but I did find the shipping plugs that Cummins installs in the ports that are used by RAM for their own cooler and those are metric o-ring boss so they are not part of the cabin heater plumbing.



The turbo coolant lines are attached to the block (lower line) and EGR cooler (upper line) according to the service manual so that may be where the shared flow statement came from.

So with that being said, I don't see why a shut-off may not be installed in a 3rd gen 6. 7 truck.



Comments, questions, suggestions are welcome as always.....



Mike.

 

[mwilson]

Look what I just found... Coolant Flow Diagrams!!!!

Mike.