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Colder A/C in under 25 min?????

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Thermotion electronic coolant flow control valve still working just fine!

Well, after 3 years of using the
electronic-heater-coolant-control-valve_125.jpg
Thermotion electronic coolant heater control valve to shut off the coolant to the heater core, I am very pleased with the performance. Having the ability to change the amount of coolant going to the heater core via a rocker switch at the lower part of the dash is so handy. I don't have to stop, get out and turn the valves, I can just press a rocker switch to control the valve. I can get the cold A/C air need out of the dash vents by shutting off the flow to the heater core while still allowing the coolant to flow in and out of the cylinder head as it was designed. Then if I need a bit of heat on a long drive to modulate the A/C temps on a cloudy, rainy day, all it takes is to flip a switch! Convenience at its best!

I haven't taken the time to research the resistance in the temperature slider controls in the dash, but according to Thermotion, they could ultimately be used to control the diverter valve in the unit to modulate the coolant flow to the heater core. I opted to have it either fully open or fully closed when I use my double pole double throw rocker switch for 30 seconds in either direction. I guess I could stop the valve less than fully open or closed by turning off the rocker switch after less than 30 seconds, but that is not the reason for this valve.

I am still enjoying the 36-38 degree air from the vents on Max A/C recirculate during these humid, hot, hazy summer days. Plus, it has not affected the temperatures of the coolant after many times of testing while towing over the 5 mile stretch of 7% grade on I-64 in WV. Glad I was able to fix it relatively simply...

electronic-heater-coolant-control-valve_125.jpg
 
I want to implement this on my truck. It don't know how to wire the valve.

I biught the Thermotion valve and wiring harness. The harness has 5 bare wires; black, red, green, white, & yellow.

Gtobey what switch did you use and how did you wire it? (Forgive me I'm not familiar with much wiring so I need it in simple terms lol)

Thanks in advance!
Bob
 
I want to implement this on my truck. I don't know how to wire the valve.

I biught the Thermotion valve and wiring harness. The harness has 5 bare wires; black, red, green, white, & yellow.

Gtobey what switch did you use and how did you wire it? (Forgive me I'm not familiar with much wiring so I need it in simple terms lol)

Thanks in advance!
Bob
 
Where did you buy the Thermotion electronic coolant flow control valve? And how much? I think that would be a great addition. The problem with manual valves on the heater hoses around here is there are many days when we need both heat and air conditioning on the same day. Lots of cool mornings that turn into hot days.

Thanks.




Well, after 3 years of using the View attachment 96354Thermotion electronic coolant heater control valve to shut off the coolant to the heater core, I am very pleased with the performance. Having the ability to change the amount of coolant going to the heater core via a rocker switch at the lower part of the dash is so handy. I don't have to stop, get out and turn the valves, I can just press a rocker switch to control the valve. I can get the cold A/C air need out of the dash vents by shutting off the flow to the heater core while still allowing the coolant to flow in and out of the cylinder head as it was designed. Then if I need a bit of heat on a long drive to modulate the A/C temps on a cloudy, rainy day, all it takes is to flip a switch! Convenience at its best!

I haven't taken the time to research the resistance in the temperature slider controls in the dash, but according to Thermotion, they could ultimately be used to control the diverter valve in the unit to modulate the coolant flow to the heater core. I opted to have it either fully open or fully closed when I use my double pole double throw rocker switch for 30 seconds in either direction. I guess I could stop the valve less than fully open or closed by turning off the rocker switch after less than 30 seconds, but that is not the reason for this valve.

I am still enjoying the 36-38 degree air from the vents on Max A/C recirculate during these humid, hot, hazy summer days. Plus, it has not affected the temperatures of the coolant after many times of testing while towing over the 5 mile stretch of 7% grade on I-64 in WV. Glad I was able to fix it relatively simply...
 
I purchased the Thermotion valve directly from Thermotion.


As far as the wiring goes, it is relatively a simple process. I used a DPDT rocker switch with center neutral, meaning that the switch has ability to rock one way, stop in the center, and rock the other way, and has 6 terminals on the back. The two terminals in the center provide a positive and negative. On one side of the switch, the two terminals provide both positive and negative which are connected to the Thermotion valve (black and red wires). The other side of the switch will provide both positive and negative to the Thermotion valve, but reversed, so that the motor on the valve will operate the other direction. Since you are using a DPDT switch, only one set of positive and negatives will go to the valve at one time, and therefore will not short out.


The only wires you are basically concerned with are the Red and Black wires for the Thermotion...
 
I wonder what the differences are?

My 05 is ice cold in 100°+, as is my dad's 06, and my friends 07 6.7.


One major difference is that the Mega Cab HVAC has a screen that restricts airflow to the panel/dash vents. I removed it and the difference is incredible.

Bringing this back up since I just had to replace my entire AC system and it still sucks.

A guy on another forum with the same model truck as mine did this...

View attachment 96318

The valve he used was this one: Model: 4373K54 from here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#three-way-ball-valves/=13p3q22

I'm having trouble imagining the flow through the valve based upon the flow directions shown on the valve description. The gent who posted it originally said it works but it seems like it'd still flow some into the heater core.

Thinking I'm going to try it out.
Attached are pictures of what I came up with using (2) 3 way ball valves. I can route the coolant as designed or route the coolant through the bypass hose based on where the valves are set. If anyone has a suggestion for what to do instead of the zip tie, I'm all ears. Thanks to Flopster843 for the great videos on removal of the HVAC box and replacement of the doors. There are a couple differences/additional steps for the '06. I also replaced the heater and evaporator cores and the original foam around the openings where the box meets the firewall and ducting in the dash with 1/2" weatherstripping. Amazing difference.

Coolant.bypass.jpg


Coolant.bypass.2.jpg
 
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It is a plastic framed nylon mesh piece which is supposed to moderate the airflow to the rear seat ducts. It is in the distribution box behind the dash. It allows more air through the dash vents rather than full, unmoderated flow to the back seats. It serves as a cheap alternative to a contollable flap to increase or lessen air flow to the back seats.
 
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