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Guns, Bows, Shooting Sports, and Hunting Colt competition crx-14.5 Anyone have any experience with the crx series yet?

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My race car build 70 Camaro

What is this????

HH, the bolt is what will fail first.



And Stoner designed it that way. Then, any failure scrapnel and gassess are contained in the upper assembly or blown out the ejection port..... for the most part. I've seen one that the locking lugs were a neat little ring in the barrel extension... . the head of the cartridge blew the center of the bolt out almost perfectly, leaving the locking lugs and a short piece of the bolt around them. The guy said it just "sounded funny", and locked back when the bolt lug in the raceway was wedged in the upper by pieces of metal. No injury to the lower, mag, or shooter. The top round in mag was dented up and disfigured, but that was it.



Or at least it appears he designed it that way... ... Either good design or dumb luck... . :rolleyes:
 
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That's why I ALWAYS use an high pressure magnetic particle tested bolt of known source, and change them out at 5-6 thousand rounds. :)

I was just referencing to your barrel thickness comment. :laf
 
HH and Patriot, Do ya lube the locking lug contact surfaces? Or run 'em dry?
Do ya run your upper dry or wet with lube?
Direct impingement question.
GregH
 
HH,

The lower pressure ammo is easier on the entire system. Chromed bores and chambers extend operating life, but aluminum has a finite life span, compared to steel.

The real issue is the fact that GI ammo propellant manufacturing has evolved, by design, to be ideal for the direct impingement gas system.

Many Moons ago, when the M-16 was first issued to Troups in Vietnam, that original 55 Gr. 5. 56 ammo was loaded with a propellant that left residue deposits that was not to far removed from "Black Powder":D! The calcium deposits clogging the gas tubes and uper receivers, rendered the weapon inoperable, costing lives and confidence in the system. They were also very inaccurate! For a Marine, that really was a slap in the face. With all our emphasis on marksmanship and the accuracy and reliability of the M-14.

I understand those that do not want to use the steel cored m-855 ammo, but watch the ammo/powders that you do use. Some will foul up your gas system unless you are on top of the situation. They work well in a bolt action rifle, but not a gas gun, especially in an extended string of fire. Just a precautionary note!

GregH
 
I run my lugs dry and reasonably clean, and lube my bolt a little. It gets nasty, but that's calculated in the design, IMO. I've run Lubriplate, powdered graphite, Slide-Glide, Kroil (several types), Friction Defense, several synthetics such as RemOil, FrogLube, motor oil, gear oil, and just plain high-temp grease... ... The powdered graphite definitely scares me, as it gets everywhere, and really doesn't seem to do much good... . unless it's got a light coat of oil for it to stick to!!! RemOil and such is OK in extreme cold, but the Lubriplate and gun grease really aren't worth a dang in the cold, and attract wayyyy too much dirt and dust. I've seen several guys swear by the Slip2000, perhaps due to that article... . I don't recall ever using it. One of the best I've seen for long term carry and mild usage is the Brownell's Friction Defense... . I really like it, and it seems like I don't see much wear. I don't do extended firing session with it, though. I usually pull my bolt and wipe it down with a good solvent or spray it every 50-100 rounds, depending on where I've been and how the weather has been. Dusty weather and carry conditions dictate a quicker cleaning interval for me. I can't stand that dust in the action. And around here, I'll drag the thing all over the place, in the seat, out the window, on foot, and on the tractor for days at a time. The sand HAS to be cleaned out of it every week or two, or it'll really eat it up. In the summer, the Lubriplate and Troco "98" rule for wear, IMO, at the range and match shooting. It seems to just absorb the carbon, and wipes right out on Monday, after the normal 150+ rounds across the weekend course. But on the ranch, where I actually USE these things, the Friction Defense rules.



Interestingly, the low-viscosity engine oil works ok for wear, but don't trust it... . It'll burn a little easier than oil made specifically for firearms..... :eek: :-laf
 
I used 15w50 a time or two when nothing else was available. It appears to work great for wear, but it certainly attracts dust... I also used STP a time or two, and it really helps gloss it over, but it's a dirt magnet... It stays where you put it, though. In cold weather, you won't like either one... . Turns your nice sliding bolt into a cyclic dampener! :-laf



GHarm, I've use the STP on bolt lugs in many match rifles, and it really helps when you have a bronze-bushed bolt. I'm not sure how the STP works on a molecular level, but the level of adhesion and lubricity qualities make it a fine high pressure lube. Recently, I had a bolt gun that had been teflon coated, and it would have a hard bolt after 3-4 rounds. The STP helped, and when I put some on the bolt face, it helped even more... . Of course, it'll have to be pulled apart to see what the problem is, but for now, I'm breaking the barrel in. I know if you get that stuff on your hands, you can't hardly get it off. Even solvents leave a residue you can feel!!
 
Alright guys... .

I had to be an adult and pass on it. It was painful to do so, yet necessary. In addition to my gun stuff, I have some maintenance issues that are coming up on my truck in my sig. Just basic stuff but, nonetheless necessary.

I have a pretty good idea that the gun was probably purchased by one of the employees at the store. They were pretty darn exuberant about it...
 
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